replaced furnace blower now breaker issue

Kurr

Hello, recently I replaced the first the capacitor on the furnace blower, then after that did not work I went ahead and got anotherr squirrel cage blower and motor we were using for a fan from the shop. In the shop the blower was wired to 110, thru the red and white wires, no capacitor. A little kick with the fingers after plug in and it served admirably. Looks the same as bad motor except for wire colors. The one I took out has 1 red, 1 purple, 1 black , 2 brown and the ground. The one I put in has 1 red 1 wht, 1 black 1 blue 2 brwn and a ground. The old one had the red taped off (to itself, no connect) and the black to (relay/sequencer) and purple to the breaker. The new install having no purple wire, was connected red to breaker, wht to #2 slot on (relay/sequencer?) same as other, then capacitor (browns) added.

After this the blower now comes on (yay!) and runs fine, good heat far a bit but within i guess 15-25 mins kicks the breaker at the main breaker box.

Should i get the wires extended a bit to reach and use the blue/black combo instead? I am just not sure why the breaker is kickin. Any help appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Kurr

Kurr

For those visualy minded folks and to clarify here is some pics.

here is the old one..




Here is how the one I put in is at the breaker section ...



And finaly here is the one showing the capacitor/fan area with unused wires marked.



As I said before i hooked the red and white up soley on the premise that we were usin it in the shop with just those 2 wired to the ext. chord.

Should I use the Blue/Black wires to the Breaker/Relay? As stated, it kicks on and runs fine for some minutes before it throws the breaker and when running i have 230-240v running to motor.

Is more info required?

#CARRIERMAN

Hi Kurr

I read over your post, the problem you are having is you are trying to run a 120 volt motor on 230 volts. By now I am assuming the motor is probably burnt up. I would reccomend getting a 230 volt blower motor and installing. Running the 120 volt motor could have also damaged the fan switch in your sequencer. Check it while you are at it.

Good luck
Rusty

Kurr

Thanks for the reply carrierman. I had a repairman out today and he looked it over and after much testing said I had a bad sequencer (the system is older than , well, dirt I believe), which was promptly replaced and then we spent some time testing it to make sure. Things seemed fine till about an hour after he left, then.... the breaker kicked again! I called him back and he said he would come back in the morning but wanted to look in my breaker box (the main) to see what the problem was. Now at this point im stuck as to what could be the issue, and why he would be concerned with the breaker. Perhaps a loose connection coming off the breaker? I know that a loose connection can heat up and burn off, perhaps he thinks if it is a loose connection then that would be drawing the extra amps. Other than what I've put here he said it looks like the job I did was correct in the way it was preformed. Still looking for answers...

Kurr

#CARRIERMAN

Hi Kurr

It sounds like to me he is one of those guys that I fired after a couple of weeks. Did you let him know the situation about the blower?. You can look for yourself before he changes every part on your furnace and still can't get it to work. Look at the rated voltages on both the blower motors. If I am wrong I will appologise.

Good luck
Rusty

Kurr

Finaly got it all figured out. Had to replace the ancient 60amp in the main box. Someone told me that everytime a breaker trips it loses 1/10th of 1% of its efficiany. So if it tripped 100 times your breaker is actualy at appr. 90%. I replaced it as the final step and all is now well.

I love happy endings, thanks for the help guys!

Kurr