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Old 11-03-2008, 06:44 AM   #1
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Removing a hot water baseboard- HELP!


Hello,
I need to remove a baseboard from my dining room. I have copper plumbing experience, but I'm not sure if this is a same as water lines. My concern comes from this baseboard being the first one in the house. Meaning, the pipe leaves the boiler comes up thru the floor into the baseboard then back into the floor, then to the rest of the system. I'm wondering if I just remove the baseboard and patch a pipe in to finish the loop if I need to keep the little regulator thing on it. (pic here) Please let me know how I can proceed. If this is something I can't do myself, anyone have an idea of how much it'll cost me?
Cheers!
-Mike

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Old 11-03-2008, 09:47 AM   #2
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Removing a hot water baseboard- HELP!


I don't see a problem doing what you suggest.

The combo air scoop/bleeder can be removed.

Just make sure you drain the system to below the level of where you are working or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

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Old 11-04-2008, 07:07 AM   #3
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Removing a hot water baseboard- HELP!


You can connect those sections under the floor again. No restrictor needed.

But, be carefull. You could create a noise problem from expansion.

Every time the copper comes through the floor to a baseboard, it acts as an expansion joint.
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Old 11-04-2008, 08:59 AM   #4
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Removing a hot water baseboard- HELP!


Thanks for the input guys!
So is there something I could/should do to the loop to help with expansion?
Make the loop under the floor (in the crawlspace) bigger? smaller? Or don't change it?
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Old 11-04-2008, 04:10 PM   #5
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Removing a hot water baseboard- HELP!


just repipe it under the floor as if the room didn't exsist,and keep the size as it is coming from the boiler.the hot water being supplied is "in series" there,with the rest of the basebaoard going around the house.if your short on heat anywhere else(catch a window on a wall) in the house good time to add longer lenghts with the system being drained.if you don't have a bleeder valve anywhere on the loop good time to add one,will make it easier to bleed the air(in the loop)from the water regulator feed setting on the boiler...do it with the boiler off and no circ running.95/5 or stay brite will do the job on the soldering end...and keep it clean and use that flux
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