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Old 02-18-2011, 06:02 PM   #1
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relocating gas vent


I have a furnanse that was improperly installed and the installer is now out of business, so I cannot get them to fix the problem. The venting should be 3", and the original installer only put in 2". A 3" vent is not possible in the current configuration of the house. However, there is an unused 3" double-walled galvanized vent pipe that could easily be accessed by the unit. Is it possible to use this existing (currently unused) 3" double-walled galvanized pipe for the venting? In a way, it is idea because this piping goes straight up, as opposed to the current 2" pipe which has a long horizonal run with a number of turns.
thanks
Scott

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Old 02-18-2011, 06:26 PM   #2
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need more information such as model of furnace and efficiency.

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Old 02-18-2011, 06:30 PM   #3
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What is happening to the furnace now? Pressure switch tripping problems? What is the brand and model and serial # of the furnace. Some require BOTH the intake and exhaust pipes to be run/used and some can use only the exhaust pipe and take the air for the burner from the basement. That info is in the install manual. If the 3"plastic can be run inside the double wall B vent easily then go ahead. If you have to glue a coupling on (which you will to get more than 12' of vertical pipe then the diameter will be closer to 3.5" and you are out of luck. If the B vent has any slight bends in it the plastic pipe may jam also. 3" plastic is next to impossible to bend. B vent is somewhat flexible and may already be bent and cause the plastic to jam. Not as easy as it looks/seems.
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:55 AM   #4
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Yeah these hack contractors are the ones who are giving out dream bids all over town taking work away from companies that have the knowledge and know-how to do things right and take care of their customers... Then in a year or so they disappear like a fart in the wind leaving their customers who thought they were getting the dream deal holding the bag. Sorry, there are some things i'm forced to rant on... Anyway, I agree about using the old B vent as a chase (provided there isnt a water heater or any other gas appliance using it!), this is a very handy trick in a pinch
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:54 PM   #5
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The furnace is a Maytag - M1000 series, model# L1RC080D with an 92 AFUE.
I have pictures of the galvanized vent from when the wall was open (I always snap pixs whenever walls are opened) - it definitely has a couple of bends in it and I do not think it would be possible to push PVC all the way though. Also, this would just be for exhaust venting the intake draws directly from the basement which has multiple screened intakes to the exterior.
thanks for any help further help you can provide.
Scott

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Old 02-19-2011, 07:20 PM   #6
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Why do you THINK you need to re-vent it in 3". Did someone tell you this. Is the current venting too long and tripping the pressure switch? Did you/they measure the total feet of run and factor in the elbows and check with the install manual for max. allowable feet of run? The problem may not necessarily be the venting.

We even have a Maytag Dude here.
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:38 PM   #7
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I think you are asking if you can just use the old vent with no pvc?? The answer to this would be absolutely not.
As asked what is the problem you have as it may not be the venting.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:18 AM   #8
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Other than using the old B vent as a chase you'll have to get creative. I'm guessing the furnace is in the middle of the house or we wouldn't be trying to figure out vent paths (if the furnace room had an exterior wall it would be a no brainer). Whats directly above the furnace room? Closet? Could you run the vent up through a chase and out the roof? or perhaps build a sofet? There is almost always a way to get pvc out
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:44 AM   #9
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That furnace can't be vented in B vent. Must be an approved vent for a condensing furnace. The B vent will rot out quickly.
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:47 PM   #10
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That's what I thought might occur.
Thanks you very much for your help!
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:24 PM   #11
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why does your flue size need to be increased?! You never did tell us this..........
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:56 PM   #12
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Our furnace kept tripping a safety switch on the blower motor. We had about 5 different professionals look at it. One company noted that the blower was drawing too many amps and so they switched out the motor (at a cost of about $900). Other companies tweeked various other things. When the fifth person was checking the unit and could not find anything additional to tweek, I asked if he had made sure the unit was installed properly. He asked if I had the manual (excuse me, but some of these guys are idiots - the manual was right next to the unit). Within 10 minutes he said he thought he might have found another possibility. He then called Maytag to confirm the issue, which they indeed told him was a problem. The company who installed the unit ran about 21 feet of pipe. The max specified by the manual is 25 feet, but there are 2 90 degree turns and 4 45 degree turns which made the equivalent run over 25 feet.

The technician then wrote up a quote amounting to over $800 to upgrade the 2" pipe to 3". If I paid that amount, we would then have put more money into the diagnostics and repair then we paid to purchase the unit and install it. Given that I added the 900 sq ft addition to our house, including all plumbing and electrical (and that the inspectors repeated told me I have done a better job than most of the contractors job they inspect, i figured it would not be a problem for me to upgrade the pipe. I just want it to be done correctly and, honestly, I do not have any more confidence in the HVAC professionals we have tried than my own ability. Other than one special fitting, everything is just PVC and glue and making sure I have the correct slope.

thanks again for all your help
Scott
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:34 PM   #13
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I guess I didn't understand this post well enough. If you're hearts not set on going up and out the roof then this is a really easy fix. Just go buy some schedule 40 PVC some PVC primer and glue and run it the same way. You'll be done in less than 4 hours. Just do 1/4" per foot rise on the pipe and dry fit your fittings before you glue them. Its really easy when the holes are already cut and the path is laid out for you. About $50 and some elbow grease and you're done

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