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Old 12-26-2011, 07:41 PM   #16
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Reducing water pressure of the heating system


Thank you all for your help,
Connecting a pressure gauge to the drain valve is a great idea to double check if my existing pressure gauge is working properly. I will get one tomorrow and instal it. I will let you know about the results.

Effar

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Old 12-26-2011, 07:46 PM   #17
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Reducing water pressure of the heating system


Yes Effar
The boiler pressure should have been pushing out water after the air bleeding of the rads. Another sign that the real water pressure in the boiler is in question.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:14 PM   #18
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Reducing water pressure of the heating system


no doubt you have been doing some things to the boiler that has helped ...however I think its time to call in the pro to set boiler and its components to the proper setting and check to see if working right...and repair or replace as needed..ben
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:29 AM   #19
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Reducing water pressure of the heating system


your heating window on a cold boiler is 12psi to start stat satisfies in the home...tops 25psi if upper floors heating involved.your starting at 25psi then heating the water.... over into 40psi and a leaking relief...you have to bleed with no circualtor running or boiler heating...if your not on zone valves that bleed should be pushing air or water out remove the bleeder might have crap in the opening....replace with a plug so the system doesn't burp out all of a sudden and your trying to screw the bleeder back in
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:50 PM   #20
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Reducing water pressure of the heating system


Last night I purchased and installed a preesure gauge to the drain valve and i found a large discrepencies between the latter and the one already installed on the top of the furnace. When i turned the heat on, the existing pressure gauge starts at 25 psi and end at 45 psi when the house reached a confrotable heat condition while the new installed pressure gage to the drain valves starts at 15 psi and end at around 25psi. This indicates that i have a faulty pressure gauge.
Evrything works fine now with just some few drop leaking from time to time coming from the relief valve.
Biggles, I didn't know that the pressure should start at 25 psi when the second floor is included. should i leave the heating system as it is or i need to adjust it so it will start at 25 psi.
I am only puzzled with one thing. thirty minutes ago, i tried to drain the radiators to check if the water will come after the air. the water does comes after the air for the radiators on the first floor while no water comes from the ones on the second floor.
I might just leave the system as it is since it working fine and we get enough heat we need.

Any thoughts?

I appreciate your help

Effar
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:09 AM   #21
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Reducing water pressure of the heating system


the higher pressure on the boiler with upper floors is just from the riser water compared to a Cape Cod on a slab style home....as long as your below that 30psi relief when the stat satisfies your good.i might repeat here but those reliefs are stamped out with 30psi and a spring within soi it'snot exactly 30 psi to drip or not to drip.next time in HD/LOWES price one if your doubtful or the drip continues.easy change out shut the water feed zero out that new pressure guage..teflon up the new one and flip them with some water burping out....do it with a cooled off boiler not just after a cycle savesome bucks$$$$.that no water bleed on the seconf could be the make up feeding in slow and just not audible...if you don't have a full radiator thenyou don't have the full coverage on the sections...if your zoned with valves first and second shut the first off...no circulator or boiler running and then try to bleed the second...as the water feeds in the pressure will build upif your boiler water is hot after a cycle and the boiler pressure is above the auto feed device on the water make up you can't bleed it won't open and you will just be blowing off the system heated pressure... that's why i mentioned the higher PSI after a cycle with an upper floors.but you should get ssomethng out on a bleed...does the second floor rads feel warm/hot along the tops or hotter when you run your hands down the section towards the floor again during a heating run...???

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