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Old 02-28-2010, 11:02 PM   #16
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Radiant floor heating questions


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Old 02-28-2010, 11:16 PM   #17
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Radiant floor heating questions


The circ for the radiant loop MUST pull through the mixing valve. And you will need flow checks.

Here is a quick drawing I made from a drawing I did for someone else. Its just a representative one. Doesn't have to have teh regular temp zone circ piped where this one is on the return.
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File Type: pdf High and Low temp Boiler 3A.pdf (5.5 KB, 64 views)
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:33 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
The circ for the radiant loop MUST pull through the mixing valve. And you will need flow checks.
Makes perfect sense, thanks.

In your drawing, where would you put in a high temp zone?
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:52 AM   #19
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High temp zone. is your rads, or copper baseboard.
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:29 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
High temp zone. is your rads, or copper baseboard.
I meant...where would you add it to the system? Just another circ pump with a loop off the hot feed?
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:04 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by warmsmeallup View Post
Only low voltage can be used in the shower. It's a waterproof element and ...low voltage.

What manufacturer do you recommend? I have a 5'x6' bathroom with a 3x3 shower, so 39 sq feet. Any estimate on how much the supplies would cost to heat a room that size with low voltage? Just one outside 6' wall that will have R13.
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:57 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by secutanudu View Post
I meant...where would you add it to the system? Just another circ pump with a loop off the hot feed?
It can be added to the supply line anywhere it doesn't interfere with water flow to the other zones.
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Old 03-01-2010, 05:20 PM   #23
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Radiant floor heating questions


it looks like a 100ft roll of 1/2" oxy pex will do the job. I agree with been there on the layout. There's nothing special needed as long as you can get the right temp. supply into your radiant loop, which is typically 140F for the floors
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:23 PM   #24
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What about running the full 180 degree temp water and installing it between the floor joists in the basement with the reflective shield below it? Does that work well?
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:57 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by secutanudu View Post
What about running the full 180 degree temp water and installing it between the floor joists in the basement with the reflective shield below it? Does that work well?
Nope.

A. It becomes hard to control temp rise of joist cavities.
B. Tends to cause expansion problems with the pex.
C. Tends to dry out the wood too much. And if you have wood floors they will warp.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:50 AM   #26
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Darn. Maybe low voltage electric is the way to go. Hydronic seems awfully complicated (read: expensive).
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:04 AM   #27
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Definitely cost more to install.

Weather it cost more to use, depends on your areas electric rate, and your cost for gas/oil.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:06 AM   #28
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I also don't like my floor being raised up 3/4". How hot do the elements in a low-voltage system get?
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:55 AM   #29
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I went with electric radiant line voltage for my bathroom & hallway outside the bathroom
For the cost of a heat matt I bought the wire & had enough to do thehallway too
I looked at the low voltage & it was quite a bit more - this was 5 years ago
NuHeat I think was one I looked at
Bathroom was too small for hydronic, sunroom would be nice ~250 sq ft
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
Nope.

A. It becomes hard to control temp rise of joist cavities. What do you mean by this?

B. Tends to cause expansion problems with the pex.
C. Tends to dry out the wood too much. And if you have wood floors they will warp.
An HVAC guy I know told me I can use something called "onyx" tubing to run the full 180 degree temp. I don't have hardwood floors, this will just go under the tiled bathroom.

Maybe i;m better off with a small 3' baseboard plus line voltage electric under the non-shower portions of the floor?

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