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Old 02-19-2012, 10:49 AM   #16
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Question for forum member "how" on banging noise


I imagine that is 4 the water heater and it looks OK 2 me. The total vertical rise from top of chimney to top of h20 heater is what is important and the adaptor has rise at the top of it. Looks like a NICE neat job and he has a proper B vent chimney 2.

Edit: You should have 1" clearance around the B vent to the chimney at the wall.

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Old 02-19-2012, 12:31 PM   #17
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Question for forum member "how" on banging noise


First. Nice work on the insulation job.

Good chance you got an expansion tank that is just about full of water. So you might want to first bleed all of your rads to get any air that might be in them, out of them. then fully drain the expansion tank.

That boiler only has an operating limit. Should be a 30 differential. meaning if set to 150, it shuts the burner off at 150, and allows it to come back on at 120.

I hate those B&G circs. Nothing really wrong with them, their good circs, I personally just don't like them. That aside. If you have a amp meter. Check the amp draw on it. If the amp draw is at or above its FLA, the circ is spinning slow, and not moving enough water.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:44 PM   #18
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Question for forum member "how" on banging noise


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Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
First. Nice work on the insulation job.

Good chance you got an expansion tank that is just about full of water. So you might want to first bleed all of your rads to get any air that might be in them, out of them. then fully drain the expansion tank.

That boiler only has an operating limit. Should be a 30 differential. meaning if set to 150, it shuts the burner off at 150, and allows it to come back on at 120.

I hate those B&G circs. Nothing really wrong with them, their good circs, I personally just don't like them. That aside. If you have a amp meter. Check the amp draw on it. If the amp draw is at or above its FLA, the circ is spinning slow, and not moving enough water.
Thanks for the compliment. And my bad, I should have previously mentioned that I already very recently made sure that all rads were bled (none except one had any air, and that one only a small amount), and I fully drained the expansion tank almost exactly two months ago. Do you think I should try draining it again?

Re measuring the amperage on the the circ pump, I don't have an amp meter. But if this continues and I have a pro come to check things, I will ask them to check that. Thanks.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:54 PM   #19
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Question for forum member "how" on banging noise


The banging noices of expanding and binding heating pipes is similar to folks complaining about hvac ducts that start to get noicier over time.
It often happens just from the natural age and settlement of the home.

With your boiler system the real noice issue is the pipes are being llimited from freely expanding and contracting. In areas where the piping is exposed it's easy to redo, loosen or put in sleeves to allow support and noiceless pipe movement. Where the pipes are covered means major wall carpentry for access.
You can lessen the amount of the noice by reducing the operating temp of your aquastat to slow the rate of pipe expansion as well as rethink the benefits of the pipe insulation. We find better success at insulating the basement walls over the piping(when possible) for a whole host of reasons..

140F for the operating temp would be fine to try. Turn it down much lower than that and you won't get the home heat you want and that boiler will start to have condensation/scale & exchanger rust problems. The difference between you doing that and a pro is that a pro would know what the real temp is. Guages get out of whack like the operating temp controls. I didn't see a crossover in your system pictures from the output piping to the inlet piping which protects the boiler from having too cold of a return water temp.

First, just try putting a thin plastic sleeve around the black iron pipes where they are supported by the hangers.

Last edited by how; 02-19-2012 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:10 PM   #20
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Question for forum member "how" on banging noise


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Originally Posted by how View Post
The banging noices of expanding and binding heating pipes is similar to folks complaining about hvac ducts that start to get noicier over time.
It often happens just from the natural age and settlement of the home.

With your boiler system the real noice issue is the pipes are being llimited from freely expanding and contracting. In areas where the piping is exposed it's easy to redo, loosen or put in sleeves to allow support and noiceless pipe movement. Where the pipes are covered means major wall carpentry for access.
You can lessen the amount of the noice by reducing the operating temp of your aquastat to slow the rate of pipe expansion as well as rethink the benefits of the pipe insulation. We find better success at insulating the basement walls over the piping(when possible) for a whole host of reasons..
140F for the operating temp and 160F for the limit would be fine to try. Turn it down much lower than that and you won't get the home heat you want and that boiler will start to have condensation/exchanger rust problems. I didn't see a crossover in your system pictures from the output piping to the inlet piping which protects the boiler from having too cold of a return water temp.
I'm confused about what you're saying about the temperature settings. What is the difference between "operating temp" and "limit temp?" The only control on my boiler is the high limit setting, which is currently 150. I'm confused by your references to both 140F and 160F, i.e. whether you're suggesting turning it down to 140 or up to 160.

As far as the return water temp being too cold, as I was planning on insulating the returns too, I would hope that would ameliorate that issue. (I do understand that you would prefer insulating the basement walls first.)

When you say loosen the hangers, I assume you mean loosening the nut and bolt (a little) that is securing the perforated straps that are holding up the pipes? (I've already insulated the supply pipes, so unless I had to remove the insulation I don't know what else I could do there.) I could send a picture of what I mean if I'm not being clear.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:20 PM   #21
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Question for forum member "how" on banging noise


I would set the temp on the limit to 160.

Because when the water temp reaches 160 it will kick off the burners and it will have to cool to 130 before the burners turn back on. Need to keep boiler temp up to help prevent condensate in the flue.

I set boilers at 170 when I set them up. I would also tell you to hire a pro to come and preform a combustion analysis on the system to get peak preformance.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:22 PM   #22
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Question for forum member "how" on banging noise


I expected two temp controls on the well Mclean but changed my post when I only saw the one. Re read my amended post. A 160F limit temps is usual with the tridicater showing the operating temp around 140F.
You can keep the insulation for now and just strip off a 4" section where each support holds it. That includes any notched cross supports that the piping may rest on. Get some plastic pipe (even abs) and cut it into 4" pieces. Then make a cut along it's length so it can be opened to go arround the pipe. The Idea is to make a sleeve to go between the pipe and the hanger so the pipe can expand and move back and forth without binding.
You may not need to loosen the hangers if there is already room for the sleeve to fit.


Last edited by how; 02-19-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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