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-   -   Question - Did I burn the new condenser fan motor :( (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/question-did-i-burn-new-condenser-fan-motor-145228/)

Doni 05-29-2012 01:01 PM

Question - Did I burn the new condenser fan motor :(
 
Hi,
My condenser fan motor would lock up when it came on, so we determined it was faulty. I went ahead and got a replacement - Rescue motor
The problem was that it had 2 extra wires - I followed the diagram on it and turned it on... it started rotating, smoking, then stopped.

I disconnected everything once more - re-wired, double checked, and turned it back on. Now it turns on but it's got about 1/4th the speed it should have.

So my stupid question... Do you think I've burned it? :(

Thank you much

Marty S. 05-29-2012 01:13 PM

Smoke means scrap

biggles 05-29-2012 01:17 PM

how many wired did you start with and which collor 2 didn't you use....208V? if you had 2 brown wires they are for the capacitor mos condenser motor have one hi speec on the older stuff...model and brand

Doni 05-29-2012 01:50 PM

I just blame myself - i didn't go to Grainer to get original replacement. I went to another place and got a Rescue motor. It came with 5 wires - Black, White, Red, Brown, Brown/White (And green of course - ground)

Initially I hooked up the Brown/White to the capacitor
Black with Black
Red with red
I didn't hook up the White and the Brown ones.

The second time around I got smart and read online and on this forum and hooked it up correctly:
2 Browns to capacitor
Black to T1
White to T2
Red to red (T2)

But the fan rotates very slowly...
I'm planning to go back to Greiner... last question though, which one do you guys prefere A.O. Smith or Rescue?
Looks like REscue has ball bearing - does that make it superior?

jb64 05-29-2012 04:32 PM

marty is right, smoke, bad, even if you get this one right, and it works, its not trustworty

Doni 05-29-2012 04:53 PM

Thank you all for your quick replies, greatly appreciate them :)
I went to Grainger and got a new AO smith motor with same specs as the old one. Will replace it once it's not so hot out.
I will let you all know what happens

jb64 05-29-2012 05:04 PM

make sure you get the right cap with the new motor

Doni 05-30-2012 12:18 AM

2 Attachment(s)
:mad:
So I got the new fan and put it in, put in a new capacitor that Grainger recommended to go with the new fan, hooked it up, the fan ran for about 5 minutes, overheated and stopped - condenser continued to go and then it stopped too. I'm including pictures of the capacitor and motor specs.

Why would the motor heat up and stop? I matched up the old and new motor specs - Grainger did too... I'm kinda lost

I read online that the placement of the blade could be the problem, too high or too low, or the balancing of the blade... but the :censored: thing won't run for no more than 5 minutes and it shuts down so I doubt that's the problem

biggles 05-30-2012 06:28 AM

208V motor doesn't get a white wire on the L1 or L2?the Cap rating is 5 or 35 on the Grainger motor tag? what shape is the contactor in for both the comp/fan where they both tap off of? just asking

jb64 05-30-2012 11:40 AM

Thats a dual capacitor, one for the fan, the other for the compressor. I don't know how grainger knew which dual cap to sell you. The cap has 3 terminals, C, Fan, and Herm. C to Fan is for the fan motor :eek: and C to Herm is to the compressor. If the fan stops, the compressor will overheat and trip. Don't let the system run if the fan stops. I think the fan label says 5mfd, so that's ok. The fan will not stop because of location or direction. The fan should blow upward, not downward. Let me know.

Doni 05-30-2012 12:39 PM

Hey biggles - The first motor had the white wire (5 wires in total + grounding) but that one is out. I'm now working with the fan in the picture above.
I've called an HVAC guy - who knows when he'll stop by, because I've given up on this thing.

Hey jb64 - Grainger person looked them up in their book so she said she matched them up. My previous cap was a dual as well 5mfd. As you can see in the pic, the wiring diagrame, both brown wires I hooked up to the "fan" side of capacitor, the black and yellow went to the lines, T1 and T2, and the compressor remained in the Herm connector of the cap.

What I've learned from online is that a fan will heat up and stop if it's over/under loaded. And usually happens if the specs of old with new motor are not matched up - but I'm pretty certain, and Grainger verified that the specs of new and old motor matched up. so why would the motor overload/underload I have no idea.
I also read a case where the guy moved the fan blade up on the shaft by 1 inch and his fan stopped heating and worked fine... go figure.
I'm not touching this thing anymore, I'm waiting for the HVAC guy see what he says.

wheelsup 05-30-2012 12:57 PM

Make sure you post back on here what the problem really was, helps people in the future searching on Google.

I bought an exact OEM motor and it dropped in (searched Google for part number on original motor). Didn't want to mess with it, cost another $50 but it was worth it. It worked fine although my problem wasn't the motor at all unfortunately.

I noticed your motor shows 1/4 hp, FWIW mine was 1/12 hp. Very different. It's possible you just got the wrong motor. Was the previous motor a 1/4 hp that you pulled out of it? Go to Harbor Freight and get an amp clamp, they are cheap around $12, and test the amp draw, that will tell you definitively if the motor is pulling the correct amperage. Also test your original motor, it may not have been the motor at all.

I don't know if there is a way to by-pass the defrost board, ie run the condenser motor continuously - if there is you could try that and narrow it down that way as well.

jb64 05-30-2012 01:08 PM

Alright, maybe next time.:thumbsup:

Doni 05-30-2012 01:37 PM

Problem not yet solved
 
2 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the feedback :) Yes the fan blows upward - and yep I make sure to turn the system off if the fan stops working... don't want the compressor to burn too

To wheelsup - I will make sure to post here what the problem is - I might test them as you said but I figured if the replacement motor is of same specs it should work. I'm posting new pics of the 2 motors old and new below for comparison. By the way I'm certain the old motor was bad as it would lock up when it ran, and when I'd help it with a stick it would run then eventually stopped and wouldn't move at all even with a stick, it would freeze.

Let me know if you see a red flag when comparing the specs on the pics below

jb64 05-30-2012 01:50 PM

Looks right, the wiring? Start relay? I dunno. Go ahead and post it. Next time you will experience.:)


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