Preventive maintenance

yuri · 03-25-2009, 12:32 PM

Yes! On both units maintenance should be done yearly. The warranty companies are starting to enforce the clause that says yearly maintenance must be done. Most furnaces have a flame sensor that should be cleaned once a year. The outdoor A/C coil should be washed once a year and the freon level checked yearly. Plus a list of other items like temp rise/airflow etc etc.

gma2rjc · 03-25-2009, 01:08 PM

Thank you. I'll get that taken care of. I did have an inspection done on the furnace 2 yrs ago to renew my license, but nothing on the A/C. And thanks for listing what needs to be checked.

I think I can do this work myself, would HD have a book (with pictures) that would show me how? lol, I'm just kidding. Thanks again for the info, I'll call the company that installed them.

yuri · 03-25-2009, 01:15 PM

Actually there are several items you can and should take of. The outdoor A/C coil should be flushed with a garden hose (NO pressure washer) at least once and sometimes twice a season. Furnace filter, check drain line from A/C coil. Keeping the outdoor coil clean makes the unit run a LOT more efficiently so you have a $$ incentive to look after it.

gma2rjc · 03-25-2009, 01:38 PM

Thanks Yuri. The A/C unit is under a black walnut tree (messy) and we get a lot of those 'helicopters', from our neighbors silver maple tree, in our yard too. So, I'll start cleaning the coil a few times each summer (I'll go online to find a picture of what it looks like). I clean the fan blades when they start looking dirty and put plastic over the whole unit before winter.

hvaclover · 03-25-2009, 01:40 PM

In our area, YES.

gma2rjc · 03-25-2009, 02:40 PM

Thanks hvaclover.

Quote:

Furnace filter, check drain line from A/C coil.

Is the drain line from the A/C coil the one that comes from the box sitting on the floor next to the furnace, runs up in-between the joists and drains into the sump pump? If so, it doesn't look like it's blocked, but it's not clean inside either.

hvaclover · 03-25-2009, 02:52 PM

We take resistance, voltage (resting and energized), amp draw of all components as well as cleaning the condenser. We carry the last years check up to compare to see if any significant changes have taken place that may lead to replacing a part.

gma2rjc · 03-25-2009, 06:16 PM

Alright, I'll make a list of all of that and the things Yuri said and make sure that's all done when they come to look at it.

I'm pretty sure the company that installed it should be able to do the PM. It's under new ownership, but I think the guy who owns the business now is a little more thorough than the ones that installed it. He wouldn't pass my licensing inspection until I had a couple things changed. One thing was the placement of the cold air return - it was too close to the gas water heater. The other thing was on the water heater itself, and he wasn't really there to check that, just the furnace. I thought it was pretty nice that he went out of his way to point that out so I could get it fixed.

Thanks you guys.

hvaclover · 03-25-2009, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gma2rjc

Alright, I'll make a list of all of that and the things Yuri said and make sure that's all done when they come to look at it.

I'm pretty sure the company that installed it should be able to do the PM. It's under new ownership, but I think the guy who owns the business now is a little more thorough than the ones that installed it. He wouldn't pass my licensing inspection until I had a couple things changed. One thing was the placement of the cold air return - it was too close to the gas water heater. The other thing was on the water heater itself, and he wasn't really there to check that, just the furnace. I thought it was pretty nice that he went out of his way to point that out so I could get it fixed.

Thanks you guys.

Don't take all this info as Gospel. Not all companies approach a PM the same way.

As an example, all the reading I take might not be done the same way. My system is time consuming and is more expensive than most guys in my area. We are a niche company catering to a clientele that cares more about thoroughness and extra attention to detail. And they aren't afraid to pay for our service.
You might want to check with a few companies thru friends first.

gma2rjc · 03-25-2009, 06:42 PM

Okay, I'll check around. Thanks.

SULTINI · 03-25-2009, 06:45 PM

Sounds like the thread is going well after having a rough start. Just a reminder when it started it was just a heads up.
I have seen year after year no PM on units until the last minute.
I also mentioned the part of the country where you live.
It was a general statement, that's all no more no less.

Sultini

PS It's later than you think

hvaclover · 03-25-2009, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SULTINI

Sounds like the thread is going well after having a rough start. Just a reminder when it started it was just a heads up.
I have seen year after year no PM on units until the last minute.
I also mentioned the part of the country where you live.
It was a general statement, that's all no more no less.

Sultini

PS It's later than you think

'ya lost me guy.

gma2rjc · 03-25-2009, 07:48 PM

Good idea for a thread Sultini.

SULTINI · 03-26-2009, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuri

Actually there are several items you can and should take of. The outdoor A/C coil should be flushed with a garden hose (NO pressure washer) at least once and sometimes twice a season. Furnace filter, check drain line from A/C coil. Keeping the outdoor coil clean makes the unit run a LOT more efficiently so you have a $$ incentive to look after it.

I shut the main disconnect off and take a side panel off and shoot a spray of water from the hose on the coils to outside opposite air direction to push the dirt back out the way it came in just like my small commerical condensers. That way I am not flooding the unit and getting water in the fan motor.

lrfllc · 03-26-2009, 09:19 AM

As many have said cleaning the condenser coil is very important. However, the use of a biodegradable non-caustic detergent along with the hose rinse is the best way to clean the coil. What happens is you get microscopic dirt that gets in between the aluminum fins and the copper coils on most units. The dirt is a pretty fair insulator and removing it will reduce head pressures about 10% or so over just rinsing the coils. 409 detergents is a good detergent to use.

Good Luck,

Larry
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