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Preventive maintenance

7K views 58 replies 15 participants last post by  hvaclover 
#1 ·
Heads up PM time depends where you live.

Lets get ready and not wait until it's 80- 90 degrees to turn them on.

Don't forget to turn the main circuit breaker on a couple hours before starting to heat the crank case up if you have crankcase heaters. OUT:wink:
 
#3 ·
A little early?

My son got a post card from his contractor, probably one of the largest, premier Carrier dealer in the Philly area 'inviting' him to schedule his a/c PM. They had set up the appointment for March 15th.

I told him to cancel that appointment, which he did.

Do y'all think it's a bit on the unethical side to schedule PMs when the daytime ODT is running about 40 - 45* tops?

Clover, are you saying that manufacturers haven't been including them? How long?

V
 
#8 ·
My son got a post card from his contractor, probably one of the largest, premier Carrier dealer in the Philly area 'inviting' him to schedule his a/c PM. They had set up the appointment for March 15th.

I told him to cancel that appointment, which he did.

Do y'all think it's a bit on the unethical side to schedule PMs when the daytime ODT is running about 40 - 45* tops?

V

I was gonna stay out of this, as this not my area of expertise, but this quote really bugs me. "Largest, Premier, Carrier" these words get thrown out like they are royalty. I have seen it so many times that this profile of company is the antithesis of its claims. Where I live we have that exact description and I can tell you, from being on the inside that the homeowners best interest is rarely taken into account.

Find someone you know and trust. So what if they can't afford full page newspaper ads telling that you can get a "free furnace ". None of that makes them good at taking care of you issues.

Your son did the right thing. Now help him find a real service professional. If I have misjudged this company, my apology is in advance.

Good Luck
 
#5 ·
Companies/techs, that work on A/C units that do server rooms, or oher rooms that need A/C in low ambient temps, have no problem doing a PM when its 40° outside.
 
#6 ·
Crankcase heaters consume electricity 24hrs a day and lower the SEER rating. I will not start my A/C unless it is 70 deg F outside for at least a few days so the ambiant temp will warm up the compressor. PMs in cool weather are somewhat useless as there is not enough load on the compressor to properly test it IMO. I go back on lots of them (by other techs) in hotter weather only to find undercharged units. The company likes them done in any weather as we get incredibly backlogged when the first hot day comes and hundreds of calls pour in.
 
#7 ·
Yuri.

See if you can get some of those techs. To start looking at HP's operating readings in cooling mode. When they are on a call during the milder winter temps.

Or, when they are doing a spring PM on a unit thats a heat pump. Have them check it in both heating and cooling mode.
And start logging the ambient conditions.
Indoor and outdoor ambient conditions.
SH, and SC.

Then later in summer, when you find some that are under, or over charged, point it out to that tech.
They'll eventually catch on that they need to use those readings no matter what the ambient conditions are.

Just looking at pressures, they can't tell if its charged right or not.
And many times techs are pushed not to take too much time on a PM check.

I use to hate checking units in early spring.
Until I started working on units for computer/electronics rooms that need A/C year round.

I carry an automotive remote starter switch to cycle the outdoor fan. When I check systems at lower outdoor ambients.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Beenthere :Unfortunately we have VERY few heatpumps here as it is too damn cold. LOL. I can charge a unit down to 50degF but only because I/we have YEARS of experience. The other major problem is mismatched units, poor airflows, worn compressors, undersized ductwork and all the other problems which change the pressures etc. Takes years to understand how all that fits into the charging equation.
 
#12 ·
We actually have Hot and humid weather here. In Manitoba we have the Carberry desert and the Germans would send their tank crews to train there, along with our guys. No camels though.:laughing:
 
#16 ·
Yes! On both units maintenance should be done yearly. The warranty companies are starting to enforce the clause that says yearly maintenance must be done. Most furnaces have a flame sensor that should be cleaned once a year. The outdoor A/C coil should be washed once a year and the freon level checked yearly. Plus a list of other items like temp rise/airflow etc etc.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Thank you. I'll get that taken care of. I did have an inspection done on the furnace 2 yrs ago to renew my license, but nothing on the A/C. And thanks for listing what needs to be checked.

I think I can do this work myself, would HD have a book (with pictures) that would show me how? lol, I'm just kidding. Thanks again for the info, I'll call the company that installed them.
 
#18 ·
Actually there are several items you can and should take of. The outdoor A/C coil should be flushed with a garden hose (NO pressure washer) at least once and sometimes twice a season. Furnace filter, check drain line from A/C coil. Keeping the outdoor coil clean makes the unit run a LOT more efficiently so you have a $$ incentive to look after it.
 
#29 ·
Coil washing



I shut the main disconnect off and take a side panel off and shoot a spray of water from the hose on the coils to outside opposite air direction to push the dirt back out the way it came in just like my small commerical condensers. That way I am not flooding the unit and getting water in the fan motor.
 
#19 ·
Thanks Yuri. The A/C unit is under a black walnut tree (messy) and we get a lot of those 'helicopters', from our neighbors silver maple tree, in our yard too. So, I'll start cleaning the coil a few times each summer (I'll go online to find a picture of what it looks like). I clean the fan blades when they start looking dirty and put plastic over the whole unit before winter.
 
#22 ·
We take resistance, voltage (resting and energized), amp draw of all components as well as cleaning the condenser. We carry the last years check up to compare to see if any significant changes have taken place that may lead to replacing a part.
 
#23 ·
Alright, I'll make a list of all of that and the things Yuri said and make sure that's all done when they come to look at it.

I'm pretty sure the company that installed it should be able to do the PM. It's under new ownership, but I think the guy who owns the business now is a little more thorough than the ones that installed it. He wouldn't pass my licensing inspection until I had a couple things changed. One thing was the placement of the cold air return - it was too close to the gas water heater. The other thing was on the water heater itself, and he wasn't really there to check that, just the furnace. I thought it was pretty nice that he went out of his way to point that out so I could get it fixed.

Thanks you guys.
 
#24 ·
Don't take all this info as Gospel. Not all companies approach a PM the same way.

As an example, all the reading I take might not be done the same way. My system is time consuming and is more expensive than most guys in my area. We are a niche company catering to a clientele that cares more about thoroughness and extra attention to detail. And they aren't afraid to pay for our service.
You might want to check with a few companies thru friends first.
 
#26 ·
Pm

Sounds like the thread is going well after having a rough start. Just a reminder when it started it was just a heads up.
I have seen year after year no PM on units until the last minute.
I also mentioned the part of the country where you live.
It was a general statement, that's all no more no less.

Sultini

PS It's later than you think
 
#27 ·
Sounds like the thread is going well after having a rough start. Just a reminder when it started it was just a heads up.
I have seen year after year no PM on units until the last minute.
I also mentioned the part of the country where you live.
It was a general statement, that's all no more no less.

Sultini

PS It's later than you think
:huh: 'ya lost me guy.
 
#30 ·
Cleaning the condenser

As many have said cleaning the condenser coil is very important. However, the use of a biodegradable non-caustic detergent along with the hose rinse is the best way to clean the coil. What happens is you get microscopic dirt that gets in between the aluminum fins and the copper coils on most units. The dirt is a pretty fair insulator and removing it will reduce head pressures about 10% or so over just rinsing the coils. 409 detergents is a good detergent to use.

Good Luck,

Larry
LRFMAINTENANCE.COM
 
#31 ·
I would be very careful with detergents. If the fins are color coated you may wash the color off and be left with a unattractive bright shiny coil. Great idea though for those nasty Trane spine fin coils.
 
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