I have a Burnham Series 2 (-207) standing pilot boiler. The pilot won't stay lit. I changed the thermocouple, but still nothing. Where should I look next?
Ok, the only reason I asked is that in some instances the valve will have what's called an ECO connection to it.
This would be two other wires that are part of the limit safety circuitry of the boiler. What they do is basically break the electrical circuit of the thermocouple to the gas valve if any of the safeties open...... effectively the same thing as if the pilot were to go out.
If you changed the tcple and overtightened it then it gets squashed and ruined. Needs to be slightly more than finger tight. A proper pilot flame is also necessary.
unscrew it where it attaches to the gas valve. pull it out and carefully stick it back in and tighten it just snug but not too tight or it the lead gets squashed and it won't make a proper connection. try a new tcple and if that fails then U may need a new gas valve.
Could be, 95% of the time it is the tcple but eventually valves fail. Get him to try another tcple as yours may be a dud, hate to put an expensive valve on for nothing.
Swapping out thermocouplers as a test is OK for a DIY but is pretty buckshee for a pro.
Many gas valves have a side testing slot just below the thermocoupler threaded portion of the gas valve that allows you to measure the thermocoupler output while it's connected to the gas valve just as any gas valve equiped with eco connection also can.
If not, your pro will screw in a adapter between your thermocoupler and the gas valve so he can measure the true DCMV output of that thermocoupler. A follow up, timed & metered drop out test, will tell him which part is the likely problem.
The tech put a meter on the thermocouple and got 33mv. Conclusion is a bad gas valve. Part is on order and should be here in a day or so.He offered to use a gas valve that wasn't listed as a replacement for the one I had. He said it would probably work. No idea what the differences might be, but I told him to go ahead and get the correct part. It's not that cold out, so we can get by for a few days.
probably work? there are 2 distinct types of valves - slow and fast open and actually a third type - step open (rare). better to use the OEM part unless he knows exactly the type you have.
there should be a A or H or M after the VR8*** number and that tells us whether it is slow or fast opening. A is fast open. Irregardless you are getting the OEM part so you should be OK.
A Pro said "Probably Work"? Thats like a surgeon saying "oops" when you are on the table. Not encouraging.
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