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-   -   Pilot won't stay lit (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/pilot-wont-stay-lit-174167/)

Joe F 03-11-2013 10:30 AM

Pilot won't stay lit
 
I have a Burnham Series 2 (-207) standing pilot boiler. The pilot won't stay lit. I changed the thermocouple, but still nothing. Where should I look next?

HvacWiz 03-11-2013 10:43 AM

Make sure you have a good stong flame hitting the thermocouple, otherwise gas valve may not be holding pilot anymore, will need to change.

yuri 03-11-2013 10:53 AM

If you changed the tcple and overtightened it then it gets squashed and ruined. Needs to be slightly more than finger tight. A proper pilot flame is also necessary.

Joe F 03-11-2013 11:15 AM

I just cleaned the pilot, and the flame looks good. The thermocouple is definitely getting hot, it's glowing red.

yuri 03-11-2013 11:50 AM

unscrew it where it attaches to the gas valve. pull it out and carefully stick it back in and tighten it just snug but not too tight or it the lead gets squashed and it won't make a proper connection. try a new tcple and if that fails then U may need a new gas valve.

Joe F 03-11-2013 12:00 PM

Thanks Yuri. A new thermocouple was the first thing I tried, no luck there. I decided to call in a pro since it's probably the gas valve.

yuri 03-11-2013 12:13 PM

Could be, 95% of the time it is the tcple but eventually valves fail. Get him to try another tcple as yours may be a dud, hate to put an expensive valve on for nothing.

Joe F 03-11-2013 12:30 PM

He's not here yet, so I won't tell him I tried the thermocouple. I'm sure he'll try that first. If he doesn't I'll be worried...

how 03-11-2013 06:35 PM

Swapping out thermocouplers as a test is OK for a DIY but is pretty buckshee for a pro.
Many gas valves have a side testing slot just below the thermocoupler threaded portion of the gas valve that allows you to measure the thermocoupler output while it's connected to the gas valve just as any gas valve equiped with eco connection also can.

If not, your pro will screw in a adapter between your thermocoupler and the gas valve so he can measure the true DCMV output of that thermocoupler. A follow up, timed & metered drop out test, will tell him which part is the likely problem.

Joe F 03-12-2013 07:44 AM

The tech put a meter on the thermocouple and got 33mv. Conclusion is a bad gas valve. Part is on order and should be here in a day or so.He offered to use a gas valve that wasn't listed as a replacement for the one I had. He said it would probably work. No idea what the differences might be, but I told him to go ahead and get the correct part. It's not that cold out, so we can get by for a few days.

yuri 03-12-2013 08:14 AM

probably work? there are 2 distinct types of valves - slow and fast open and actually a third type - step open (rare). better to use the OEM part unless he knows exactly the type you have.

Joe F 03-12-2013 09:05 AM

The valve I have is a Honeywell VR8300 series. He offered to use a replacement that crossed to mostly Honeywell 8200 series valves.

yuri 03-12-2013 09:29 AM

there should be a A or H or M after the VR8*** number and that tells us whether it is slow or fast opening. A is fast open. Irregardless you are getting the OEM part so you should be OK.

old_squid 03-12-2013 10:04 AM

Just curious, how many wires go to the gas valve?

Joe F 03-12-2013 10:08 AM

The gas valve has two wires, and the full part number is VR8300C4134


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