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Old 01-01-2011, 12:59 PM   #1
rl5
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pilot lit, burner won't ignite unless I blow on pilot light


I have an old (1974?) Payne gas furnace 80,000 BTU no manuals. It would run on and off on short cycles, then 2 night s ago outside temps went to 26 F. Furnace would not come on. Finally got it to come on, and did have to reset limits stops from 250 on and 90 off to 150 on and 70 off and the thremostat anticipator was set full at 6, so set it between 3 and 4. left the furnace closet door open and the furnace finally started running on longer cycles with the fan coming on sooner and off at or after the burner went off (instead of the burner running after the blower turned off). So it keep the house warm on last night with the furnace closet door open. If I close the furnace closet door, the furnace will not start. (still has adequet air flow with door closed, huge 12 inch square vent opening in door). The furnace will not restart even with the door open unless I blow on the pilot light, then the burners start, but go right back off. I blow on the pilot light, vents, 3 or four times with the burners coming on , then off, and finally the burners ignite and the furnace runs until the temp is up. If I leave the door open, it cycles on it's own.
What's up?


Last edited by rl5; 01-01-2011 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:33 PM   #2
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pilot lit, burner won't ignite unless I blow on pilot light


If it has that old 3 wire pilot burner they get old and the warp switch inside starts to stick and not bend far enough to close the switch. Blowing more flame to it heats it hotter to close it. Need a new one and buy the OEM one ONLY. We had a poster buy a clone type and it would not work. ONLY the Carrier/Payne version is any good. Heat exchanger probably has cracks from age and I would recommend a new furnace instead.
http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchan...ategory_Code=P

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Old 01-01-2011, 02:01 PM   #3
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pilot lit, burner won't ignite unless I blow on pilot light


I guess I would have to pull it out to see, but there is one wire (looks like FROM) the pilot that is capped off. There is one wire from the gas valve that has the knob to turn on "pilot" ond " on" and one other wire that goes to the "limiter" sensor that controls the fan. So it may have three wires but only two are being used. The furnace does work good when it's running, and I'm currently out of work, so I really don't want to buy a new one. There is no "plug" like the one in the picture, so would I just cut it? And The current wires are all black, so which color goes to the Limiter box (which is honeywell) and which to the gas valve?
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:03 PM   #4
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pilot lit, burner won't ignite unless I blow on pilot light


I have no idea. None of those units in my area. Later version had that 3 wire pilot and I see VERY VERY few of them left running now. Most had the heat exchangers fail and have been replaced.
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:04 PM   #5
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pilot lit, burner won't ignite unless I blow on pilot light


OK, after looking at the worn out label 50 times, I finally got the correct model number it's a Payne model 80U-19. So I finally am able to find it on the internet. I think YURI is correct, but the part is more like this http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? So, which wire goes where?
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:07 PM   #6
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pilot lit, burner won't ignite unless I blow on pilot light


Well thaT PIC DIDN'T WORK, IT'S A 2 WIRE PILOT SAFETY SWITCH 732.
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:24 PM   #7
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pilot lit, burner won't ignite unless I blow on pilot light


Should not matter with a two wire pilot switch. Receives 24 volts in on the limit wire and sends that voltage to the gas valve when the pilot switch closes.
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Old 01-06-2011, 09:08 PM   #8
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pilot lit, burner won't ignite unless I blow on pilot light


Well, I waited two days for the weather to get warmer before I attemped to repair the furnace. When I pulled the pilot safety switch it turned out to be the 3 wire 740A swithch YURI said it would be, BUT one of the wires was cut and not connected to anything. So the 2 wire switch is the correct part, the 732 732C. I remembered a couple years ago I had a repair tech fix the furnace and remember he had trouble finding parts, so he must have made the 3 wire switch work. YURI said the part might be sticking, so I wanted to see if somehow I could clean it. Well why I had all of the cover plates removed I cleaned all of the burners and the heat exchanger area, checked for any holes or worn areas. It seemed to be OK. I live in Phoenix AZ and there is not much humidity, and the furnace is only used for about 3 months, and mostly only at night because it warm enough during the day. So maybe that's why the furnaces last so long out here.? Anyway, I then took the vaccum clearner and let it suck on the pilot safty switch to try and clean it. I can't find any shops here that carry parts, so I would have to order it on the internet as YURI provided, and wait another week. So, before ordering, I got it all put back together and turned it on.
IT STARTED UP AND RUNS LIKE NEW. PECFECT CYCLES, STARTS ON IT"S OWN, EXCELLENT!!! So turns out I didn't have to buy anything, EXCEPT, I bought a carbon moxoide detector for the 2 days I waited because of all of the scary posts of it's too old. The detector has not gone off at all, and furnace is keeping the temp at the set temperature.
THANKS again to YURI and SKIP4661. I know which switch to get if this one wears out.

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