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Old 11-17-2012, 11:23 PM   #16
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Older Carrier Heat Pump frosting over


Read his post #11 carefuly. Unless I read something wrong.

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Old 11-17-2012, 11:25 PM   #17
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That sucker looked just like a Ranco until i actually saw it blown up pathetically large on my monitor, wow that is only a 2nd stage/auxillary heat strip tstat, My bad sorry. but the same goes as to theory /troubleshooting there are 2 ternminals the defrost terminator wires to saying dt usually or temp
and the 2 pins you short are usually saying test under them, you jumper both the temp and test terminals to initiate a defrost, which is the AC mode sans outdoor fan. the ohms readings are either a reading being closed or infinite being open any reading beyond infinite = a continuity or no reading whatsoever will be ead as in infinite=open.

I would 1st see how the units runs inthe AC mode, and if the discharge line at the compressor is cool enough to grab onto its got issues, either low gas or reversing valve and or compressors volumetric efficiency/compression is down.
The high side will be 270# and the low side around 65-70 depending on heat load /humidity and outdoor temps, ambient + 3- degrees is the condensing temp by design, converted to pressure for R22 = 70 psi @ 40F and 270psi @ 130F
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:58 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chimmy View Post
The dial thing he calls it with the sensing buldb is the defrost timer!

The defrost works the same on heat pumps, refrigerators etc.
Its "TIME AND TEMPERATURE" initiated and
its " TIME OR TEMPERATURE" terminated!
Meaning both time and temp must be present to initiate a defrost and either one alone, time or temp dropping out will terminate the defrost cycle.
The sensing bulb is the temperature aspect and the timer is the time.
Looks like a standard Ranco outdoor thermostat, not an E15 defrost control.


OP, even if your defrost board isn't putting out 24 volts to your aux heat terminals, you have more problems then that. Good chance its a bit low on charge again, or when that teh added 1 pound, he over charged it.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:21 AM   #19
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Older Carrier Heat Pump frosting over


Thanks for all the input fellas. Please take another look at that "dial thingy" I have in post #6. It's blurry because this forum restricts files over than 100 kb.

Anyhoo, I see in my clear copy of the photo that it is a Dayton Electric model 2E552. When I do a Google search for this item I see there is supposed to be a bulb on the end of the capillary tube. For example: http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Buy/DAYTON/2E552 So, I don't think it's a Ranco E15, but a Dayton 2E552.

Now look at the third photo photo in post #6 above. That thin tube comes from the Dayton 2E552 and the bulb is missing!!! Inside the unit, the capillary tube is wound up in a 3" coil. It looks like the bulb-end chafed against the larger tube, show in the photo, and it wore through and fell off. I haven't located the bulb.

This can't have a positive effect on the operation of the heat pump.

If I buy a new Dayton unit, where should the bulb be placed? In free air inside of the unit?
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:40 AM   #20
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Its not needed. It was most likely used to lock out your aux heat. Since you have the TH8320 with an outdoor sensor, it takes place of that outdoor stat. You can wire the 2 wires attached to it together. Verify that it is only being used to lock out your aux heat first.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:23 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
Since you have the TH8320 with an outdoor sensor, it takes place of that outdoor stat. You can wire the 2 wires attached to it together. Verify that it is only being used to lock out your aux heat first.


If anyone has not yet lost their will to live from slogging through this thread, here is the service manual. My unit has the CES110063 Defrost Control Board. The description and checks can be seen on page 19 of this document: http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc...it/38-10sm.pdf

There is also references to the Defrost cycle at the bottom of page 33.

FYI - the tech is still scheduled to be here tomorrow morning. I was just hoping I could troubleshoot it myself - cause that's the way I am.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:25 AM   #22
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Well, Bryan my HVAC promised to be here in the morning, then finally showed up around 2:00. (How hard is it to call and say you're going to be late?)

He went right at it, and performed the same checks that I did, but much faster and with an experienced hand. He deduced that the coil thermostat was bad (I had deduced that it was good ) and replaced mine with a used one he happened to have on the truck.

He buttoned it up. That'll be $82, please. He said if it gives anymore trouble he had a used board he could put in.

This morning - no more frost! So, I guess that was it.

After he left, I realized he didn't put the gauges on the system so I have no idea if there were other problems adding to the frost issue.

Thanks everyone.

Murph
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:26 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammy37 View Post
I would say in my opinion, either you had a bad defrost board, or bad defrost sensor which is a small thermostat mounted in the bottom portion of the unit. From what I've seen, usually the latter.
Glad you got it fixed, I've seen those little things cause a lot of problems, a few times they just come loose from the coil.

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