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-   -   Oil Furnace burner wont start (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/oil-furnace-burner-wont-start-93435/)

marcomjl 01-25-2011 07:14 AM

Oil Furnace burner wont start
 
Last night heating stopped, I went to bed and figured to troubleshoot it in morning. Still no heat in morning. Checked oil tank, just over the 1/8th mark so there is oil still in there (ran out before and this is plenty). Looked at the primary ignitor, lockout red light is on. Hit reset, power vent turned on but no noise from the burner. Lockout after about 20 seconds. Opened bleeder screw hit reset and nothing pumped out. 20-30seconds lockout again. Checked wiring, no loose wires, fuse is still obviously fine on electrical panel but reset that anyways in case. Opened the top of burner and turned the oil burners squirrel wheel manually, clean oil trickled out. closed the screw, tried reset again, nothing. 20-30seconds later lockout again.


Can't figure this out?

It's a Beckett AFG and a Honeywell R8184G4009

Bondo 01-25-2011 07:56 AM

Quote:

Opened bleeder screw hit reset and nothing pumped out. 20-30seconds lockout again.
Ayuh,... Your Outa Fuel,...
The oil Filter is Plugged,...
Or,...
The Oil Pump is junk...

DexterII 01-25-2011 09:06 AM

Agreed; if you are absolutely certain that you have enough oil in the tank, I would start with the filter. While you are at it, assuming you have an above ground tank, it should be sloped such that the filter is at the high end of the tank, in order to minimize the amount of sludge that reaches the filter.

marcomjl 01-25-2011 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DexterII (Post 577555)
Agreed; if you are absolutely certain that you have enough oil in the tank, I would start with the filter. While you are at it, assuming you have an above ground tank, it should be sloped such that the filter is at the high end of the tank, in order to minimize the amount of sludge that reaches the filter.


I find it odd to be clogged or empty when the needle is right before 1/8th and I've ran it empty before 4 months ago and a year ago and both times the needle was way past this point. But it could be clogged, tank is on a dirt floor basement so I could see the pitch could even be the wrong way.

Going to investigate the filter and go from there.

If its not the lack of oil/sluge clog issue, is it only really the burner motor is dead??? Any onther reasons?

If I open the bleeder screw and take it out, shouldn't oil leak?

Bondo 01-25-2011 09:53 AM

Quote:

If its not the lack of oil/sluge clog issue, is it only really the burner motor is dead???
If it Runs on reset, I'd think the Motor is Fine,...
It Runs, Right,..??

The oil Pump could be Bad, or full of Crud though....

marcomjl 01-25-2011 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bondo (Post 577580)
If it Runs on reset, I'd think the Motor is Fine,...
It Runs, Right,..??

The oil Pump could be Bad, or full of Crud though....


No, I said in the first post it does not run from what I can tell, no noise even. When I hit reset it turns on the power vent but no oil flows out of the bleeder. I did manually turn the fan inside and oil did flow out of the bleeder slowly.


The heating was running normal lastnight, my wife turned up the temp cause we stayed up and like 1 hour later it was close and the temp only rose a little, the heat stopped. So we went to bed, come down stairs it never turned on again and it was in lockout....

Can I test the pump/motor?

What ever it is the motor doesn't turn on and the pump doesn't pump so I would assume they are both not getting power since I find it hard for both to die. Could it be the transformer? Isn't the honeywell ignitor the transformer?

Bondo 01-25-2011 10:28 AM

Quote:

Can I test the pump/motor?
Ayuh,... Jumper power directly to the motor...
If it don't run,... Replace it...

marcomjl 01-25-2011 10:36 AM

How do I jump power directly to it? Take the hot and neutral going to the honeywell ignitor and touch them with the burner hot and neutral?

Also if the bleed screw is out and it doesn't leak anything, is there likly a clog before it or is the bleeder screw after the pump?

Bondo 01-25-2011 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcomjl (Post 577608)
How do I jump power directly to it? Take the hot and neutral going to the honeywell ignitor and touch them with the burner hot and neutral?

Ayuh,... Open the burner housing, Find the wire From the Motor...
Jumper power Directly to it...
You're trying to test the Motor, not the igniter coil...

If you don't know what's What...
Call a burner service Tech....

marcomjl 01-25-2011 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bondo (Post 577616)
Ayuh,... Open the burner housing, Find the wire From the Motor...
Jumper power Directly to it...
You're trying to test the Motor, not the igniter coil...

If you don't know what's What...
Call a burner service Tech....


Thanks will try now that I'm out of school. I would call a tech but my guy can't come till tomorrow and we really can't wait. I don't got much money right now plus if I can save myself $150+ because of something simple....

marcomjl 01-25-2011 10:26 PM

Just like to say problem resolved. Thanks for everyones responses.

When I got home, hit the reset the burner turned on and everything ran fine. I came to the conclusion that the motor was on its way out and I ended up replacing it. But when I went to turn the burner on after the new motor install, everything ran but the power vent now wasn't running. So I found out that the 2ndary safety controls internal wires were cut and ended up spending 3 hours rewiring my power vents connections. Before I bought the house someone had hard wired the power vent to my electrical panel. The 2ndary diagram was busted a long time ago (the red tab never stuck out). So basically if the powervent didn't work (happened when the blower wheel shredded itself due to rust on the whole unit, I ended up fabricating new brackets, mounting plates and bought a new blower wheel, their SS now...:thumbup:) the burner would stay on running.

In the end fixed the problem and resolved a bad safety issue.

Between the power vent and this furnace I should switch trades :laughing:

COLDIRON 01-26-2011 07:14 AM

You are definitly looking for trouble running your system with 1/8 tank of oil on the gage. We haven't heard the last of your problems , you'll be back soon. Guaranteed. Congratulation on your repair.

marcomjl 01-26-2011 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLDIRON (Post 578136)
You are definitly looking for trouble running your system with 1/8 tank of oil on the gage. We haven't heard the last of your problems , you'll be back soon. Guaranteed. Congratulation on your repair.


Thanks for the concern, I got oil being delievered for tomorrow already.

However scratch the repair:whistling2:, the system turned off sometime in the early morning, same issue, so replacing the the burner with the old motor and going to probably replace the honeywell ignitor unit.

COLDIRON 01-26-2011 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcomjl (Post 578247)
Thanks for the concern, I got oil being delievered for tomorrow already.

However scratch the repair:whistling2:, the system turned off sometime in the early morning, same issue, so replacing the the burner with the old motor and going to probably replace the honeywell ignitor unit.


Oil filters are cheap keep a couple on the shelf and use them whenever a problem comes up with oil flow.


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