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Old 08-21-2009, 07:10 PM   #16
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


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Doesn't that 6.6 ohms sound a might off for a coil?
I would expect it to be in the thousands. No?

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Old 08-21-2009, 07:14 PM   #17
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


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"A high resistance upstream". Sounds like a job for Ex-lax
Yuri don't remind me!

I take a pain med that causes the same thing

Thinking about going into masonry.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:19 PM   #18
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


I just checked the coil on my spare humidifier solenoid valve and it is 45 ohms. At 6.6 it may be too weak to have enough power to open the valve?

MODERATOR EDIT bricks are we? Gramps used prune juice.

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Old 08-21-2009, 07:24 PM   #19
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


Usually not less then 30 on a 24 volt.

A 6.6 omh coil on a 24 volt system would be a 87.12 VA

Bye bye transformer.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:41 PM   #20
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


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I just checked the coil on my spare humidifier solenoid valve and it is 45 ohms. At 6.6 it may be too weak to have enough power to open the valve?

EDIT bricks are we? Gramps used prune juice.
Quit using my pic, it's embarrassing!
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:47 PM   #21
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


I agree with the others, 6.6 Ohms on a 24 volt AC soil is too low. The coil is in the process of burning up. It chatters and doesn't open the valve because the coils of wire inside of it are shorted together. Coils are usually easy to replace.

The HVAC guys know more about this than I do, but I suspect the reason the compressor doesn't run is because the high pressure limit switch has been tripped. If the compressor ran but the valve didn't open, the pressure would certainly go up!

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Old 08-21-2009, 07:48 PM   #22
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Usually not less then 30 on a 24 volt.

A 6.6 omh coil on a 24 volt system would be a 87.12 VA

Bye bye transformer.
Figures i'd bungle that one. I don't use math in the field. If I ohm a coil if it says zero I know I got a for sure short. Other wise I just check the supply voltage and put a new solenoid in.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:57 PM   #23
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More info today. Coil type DMG 24V 50-60 hz. I found the transformer and read 18.6VAC across its terminals with the white and red wires disconnected from the coil. The red and white wires are split where the coil is connected to them and wrapped together so I separated them and could not find any voltage on either wire nor could I get basic ohms continuity back to the transformer. The 11VDC I was reading is actually coming up out of the furnace housing on the lower part of red wire. (The evaporator sits above the gas jets for the heater). The coil won't buzz unless one wire is connected to the white wire going down to the furnace housing and the other to the red wire that goes down there, so that is the only functioning circuit. There is no AC present there, only DC. Nothing from the transformer seems to be getting through. The wire bundle goes up through the garage ceiling and then comes down through the ceiling to the solenoid area so I can't easily see if there is a break somewhere.
The green wire is not connected to the transformer or the solenoid so assume it has no bearing on the problem.
Do I maybe just need to run new wires from the transformer? These are VERY small solid copper wires, so maybe brittle with age?
Thanks!
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:01 PM   #24
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


You read that 11 volts DC from the red wire to what?
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:02 PM   #25
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


I would run new #18 wires and you probably need a new transformer. It needs to produce 24 volts unloaded. They are rated in VA volt/amps and it should be on the transformer. 40 VA is what I use. Your coil ohms sounds too low and that may have cooked the transformer. The DC volts is probably feedback from the circuit board as most modern furnaces have the secondary on the transformer grounded. Don't worry about it.

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Old 08-21-2009, 08:06 PM   #26
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Gonna need 40 VA min.

That coils sucks up a lot of power opening the solenoid.
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:09 PM   #27
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


Been a very bad day for me. The nerve pill just kicked in. I'am gonna go vegetate.

Night.
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Last edited by Scuba_Dave; 08-21-2009 at 08:24 PM. Reason: don't start it up please...Thnx
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:10 PM   #28
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


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I would run new #18 wires and you probably need a new transformer. It needs to produce 24 volts unloaded. They are rated in VA volt/amps and it should be on the transformer. 40 VA is what I use. Your coil ohms sounds too low and that may have cooked the transformer. The DC volts is probably feedback from the circuit board as most modern furnaces have the secondary on the transformer grounded. Don't worry about it.
almost slipped by Yuri...
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:22 PM   #29
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Noisy solenoid chatter and compressor won't kick in now


David you mentioned your meter is a "cheapie". Perhaps you need a more accurate one before you get too far and for the future. Apparently Sears has some reasonably good meters for under $100 or Radio Shack. Sounds like the wiring and transformer and solenoid are all part of the problem. I use test leads with alligator clips to the wires when doing sensitive tests as the human body can conduct electricity and fool an accurate meter if you hold the probes to the wires with your fingers.

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Old 08-21-2009, 08:33 PM   #30
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I'll try some jumper wires and see if that works. These old parts may be hard to find. Undoubtedly some degradation in 15 years. Is Day & Night still in business?

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