No HEAT - HVAC - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > HVAC

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-02-2008, 01:01 AM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default

No HEAT


I have a goodman pgb030075-1 gas unit. The heat was not coming on, i went out and reset the breaker, the fan came on and what sounded like the igniter click. It would click a few seconds and stop and after a couple of seconds click again and stop then the fan would go off. I can reset the breaker and it does the same thing. When it did this the last time, i did not reset the breaker and i turned the thermostat to off. I have not opened up any panels yet (its about 12am now). I dont have any HVAC exper but can muddle my way through with a little direction.
PLEASE HELP, I dont have the hundreds of dollars for a pro....
thanks.

Advertisement

kenco77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 07:58 AM   #2
Member
 
biggles's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 3,630
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

No HEAT


he only load there is the fan motor with the breaker off try free spinning the fan squirrel cage if it is tight or or hardly spins it might need a shot of oil or just some WD-40.most resisdential fans slide out so you can see down into the fan cage area.if it is tripping the breaker could be shorted...TRY THIS shut the 115V toogle next to the furnace then put the breaker on kneeling down at the furnace put the toggle up and see if it bumps and or trips.put the toggle off and feel the casing of the motor if it is warm to hot the motor is shot..the heating controls won't trip a breaker they don't draw enough amps as the motor does.while your there with every hing off disconnect the motor wires...put the breaker up and then put the 11V toggle up on the side of the furnace..this is verify you don't have a short on the wires feeding the furnace from that breaker...if you need a motor Grainger supplies to home owners now you should be able to match it up CAT #,BRAND,FRAME,RPMs,Volts go on-line to check it out www.grainger.com there all over the place nice saturday project.if the motor is tight but not warm/hot pull the fan section and give it a good soaking with oil down the shaft and turn it as you you work the oil try different directions as you work it.if you can find them put up the info on the motor and i will give you a catalog # from the catalogs i have

Advertisement


Last edited by biggles; 02-02-2008 at 08:02 AM.
biggles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 09:54 AM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default

No HEAT


biggles,
after my last thread from about midnight last night-- i realized that the breaker is not tripping.... i couldnt see it very good last night, i just flipped the breaker off then back on and i could hear-- what sounded like the igniter trying to start. it would try 2-3 times then stop. i could come back inside and toggle the thermostat off then back on and it would do the same thing.
i'm headed out now to remove some panels .. see what i can see......
thanks
kenco77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 10:30 AM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default

No HEAT


The diagnostic light is on continously when is is tryying to ignite (at least that is what is it sounds like) when it stops clicking the light is one blink......help
kenco77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 03:34 PM   #5
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default

No HEAT


I had someone come out today, the "hi limit flame rollover switch" was cutting off. Tech said that the "heating chamber"? was more than likely cracked but didnt seem to be too bad-- the panel where the switch was, was getting very warm--he said it shouldnt be that hot, he also said that with a cracked chamber the flame from the burner would be coming back toward the cover. It wasnt doing this but the plate above the switch was pretty warm.
He quoted around $800 to get the heat chamber replaced. But with the age of the unit, 1993, it wouldnt make since to replace the chamber and then something else go wrog in the near future. A new unit--- around $3500.
I'm going to keep resetting the hi limit switch- maybe get through the winter.
kenco77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 04:48 PM   #6
Member
 
HvacWiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 286
Rewards Points: 250
Default

No HEAT


I'm going to keep resetting the hi limit switch- maybe get through the winter.[/quote]

Not a wise choice to make you are putting yourself and your family at risk. I know its a expensive repair, but the saftey of you and your family are worth more than that.
HvacWiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2008, 10:07 PM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default

No HEAT


the hvac man told me that the hi limit switch would trip if it got too hot, shutting down the unit.
Is this not the case?
kenco77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2008, 10:30 PM   #8
Member
 
HvacWiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 286
Rewards Points: 250
Default

No HEAT


Yes it is the case, the saftey limits are in place for when your furnace is not working correctly.
HvacWiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 09:24 AM   #9
30 year tech
 
hvac122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 427
Rewards Points: 250
Default

No HEAT


Limit will not tell you if carbon monoxide is getting into your house!!!!! Very unsafe situtation and needs to be fixed right away. When a heat exchanger is cracked you MUST get it repaired. We would have shut the furnace down. It means that you have the possibility of carbon monoxide getting into your house!!!!! Do you not value of your familys lives?? I can't stress the dangers enough.
hvac122 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 06:55 PM   #10
Mechanical Contractor
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 115
Rewards Points: 75
Default

No HEAT


You may want to get a second opinion. As hvac122 said, a reputable company would have warned you of the danger of carbon monoxide and shut the unit down. No one is going to take the risk of injuring your family, if the heat exchanger is really cracked. I would also shop that price around.
__________________
100% Union and proud of it.
MechanicalDVR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 09:37 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 54
Rewards Points: 75
Default

No HEAT


Is the switch that opened a "high limit" or a "roll-out" switch? A flame rollout could indicate sooted up heat exchanger from dirty burner or other flue resriction.

Advertisement

hoistdoctor is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
heat wont come on with t-stat in auto wahanks HVAC 5 02-07-2014 11:08 AM
Fujitsu Heat Pump Concerns SanDiegoCool HVAC 3 03-19-2009 01:27 PM
Testing FuelMaster 21 Module? Heat Pump no Run. thehotrod11 HVAC 3 12-29-2007 03:11 PM
Steam heat vs Hot water heat helpless handyman HVAC 5 10-03-2006 09:57 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts