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Old 12-08-2009, 12:30 AM   #1
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We purchased a home Sept 09, and I had the furnace inspected, and found a cracked heat exchanger. So I talked over the options with a local contractor, and choose to install a heat pump system with furnace backup. I am on propane so I wanted to save some $ using the heat pump system.

House - Ranch, with 1800 up and 1800 down with 500 unfinished.

Location - Iowa

Installed - Amana SSZ140361 16SEER (Recepit says 16 SEER, but web says 14SEER??) I think to qualify for the enegry rebate you have to have 16 seer with 9.5 hspf?

CAPF3743C6 - Air Coil

GMVC950704CX - Furnace

What is happening is the furnace can take up to an hour of running to get the house to temp with a 3 deg drop. The heat pump had a 60 minute lockout timer and when it was 35+ deg out, it would run for 60 minutes, and not raise the house temp up at all, and kick the furnace on. Tonight, it is 19 deg out, the furnace ran all night and finally turned off at 11:00pm. I was reading another post and I changed the cycles per hour from auto (5) to 3 so it won't cycle so much. Do I have a undersized system for this house? I am concerned about the 14seer part since my receipt lists a 16 seer model..

I am not happy with the performace of the heat pump. It puts out warm air, but not enough for the house. Was I undersold or taken? Or is it just the new house and I am not used to it? I spent a good chunk of change and starting to stress about it.

Please help..

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Old 12-08-2009, 07:28 AM   #2
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My suggestion is to first do a load calculation. Second would be look on the AHRI site for the exact performance of your equiptment. Third thing would be call the installing contractor with your concerns. If it's undersized you will know from the load calc, if it's under the performace quoted in the bid you'll know that also. It's all under warranty so have them get the problems fixed.

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Old 12-08-2009, 07:50 AM   #3
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First off, The coil that your contractor chose is not an ARI match according to Goodman. The minimum size coil that would be needed to even reach 14.5 SEER and 12.2 EER is the larger of the group of 4-5 Ton coils. Anything less is.....well...Less. Did your installation mention the use of TXV valve? There are very few 14 SEER R410a units on the market (esp. Heat Pumps) that can operate without one.

You need to be putting this in the face of the contractor. I hope that they did not sell you on a tax credit, because as it stands, I don't see that the Heat Pump qualifies. The furnace does though, so that portion is good.


Good Luck
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:21 PM   #4
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I looked outside, and the paperwork that was filled out had a incorrect serial number, and when I regesrted it online, it happened to be a serial number for a SSZ14 unit. So I do have a DSZ160361AA heat pump. Does that change or make anything better?

One thing I forgot to mention was last night upstairs was 70 and the basement was 72. I tried closing all those vents down there but wasn't sure if that helped. Do you guys think I should close all vents down stairs to help upstairs? The house had zoned heating before, and that is now disabled. I need to take out the baffels that are still in the vents. I checked and they are open

More info on the house - built in 99, 2x6 const, 10 year old windows.
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrizg View Post
I looked outside, and the paperwork that was filled out had a incorrect serial number, and when I regesrted it online, it happened to be a serial number for a SSZ14 unit. So I do have a DSZ160361AA heat pump. Does that change or make anything better?
OK, that is better (sort of). Your equipment is a match and does qualify for a federal tax credit. Now your concern needs to be contacting Goodman and getting the correct serial # from the outside unit exchanged with the 14 SEER that you registered (if that is what happened). You will need that if you ever have to fall back on the box warranty.
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:08 PM   #6
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Why is the zone system disabled?
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:20 AM   #7
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Not sure why the installer disabled it. He said it would be best with the heat pump system to not have the zoning active. I only have 2 zones, 1st floor and basement. I do notice its usually 2 deg hotter in the basement. We do not really go down stairs much, so I closed most of the vents and closed some doors.
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:06 PM   #8
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Hopefully he didn't remove the bypass system and can reconnect the zoning controls and dampers.

If not, you'll regret in it summer when the basement is freezing cold, and the upstairs is just about the right temp.

He didn't do you any favor by disconnecting it. And set up right. It makes the heat pump work less. And uses less aux heat.
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Old 12-09-2009, 04:27 PM   #9
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My installer is saying he can't hookup the zoning with the honeywell

He installed the VisionPRO IAQ to run the new system
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Old 12-09-2009, 05:25 PM   #10
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Actually, it can be hooked up with the Honeywell IAQ thermostat. And what ever other brand thermostat the second zone would be.

He should have talked to you about having an Envircom zone panel installed to do the zoning(it can use your existing dampers in most cases). It uses the IAQ thermostats. And with its auto mastering feature. Would save you on your heating and cooling bill.

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