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-   -   New Furnace won't fire up (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/new-furnace-wont-fire-up-139924/)

Jim33 04-10-2012 09:11 PM

New Furnace won't fire up
 
I am getting error code E1 . . . “Low Stage Pressure Switch Stuck Closed at Start of heating cycle”

This is a new Goodman 95% 2-stage gas furnace. I have converted to propane (replaced the orifices and the springs), but I have not checked/adjusted the pressure since I cannot get the furnace to fire up.

The blower comes on.

The inducer fan comes on.

The igniter glows.

I have 3 pressure switches. I have blown through the hoses and I have blown into the pressure switches and I can hear a clicking sound.


Any ideas how to diagnose the problem?


Appreciate the help,

carmon 04-10-2012 09:18 PM

is the propane on and all the valves open.. is the gas vavle in the on position...

Doc Holliday 04-10-2012 09:20 PM

Flue pipe restriction? If old flue (exhaust) pipe was used, remove it and smack it a few times like you would a backtalking girlfriend. :laughing:

Seriously, sediment can build up in the pipe and block exhaust air flow, the air flow produced by the inducer. Smacking it a few times, open hand and slightly hard, will knock some sediment out. Also, check the roof section of exhaust pipe for obstruction such as bird's nest.

Check for condensate water as well.

Stick a straightened paper clip into all ports from all tubes relating to the pressure switch to make certain they are clear. Check for cracks in the tubes as well. Blow through the tubes themselves to make sure they are clear.

Btw, the pressure switch is sucked closed. If you were to remove the tube to the problem pressure switch FROM THE INDUCER and turn the furnace on heat, continually suck on the tube which should still be connected to the pressure switch, the furnace should light up.

Jim33 04-11-2012 10:16 AM

Thanks for the suggestions.


The manual shutoff on the gas line is in the on position.
The gas switch is on.

The furnace has a new PVC exhaust pipe exiting the side of the home. I checked to ensure it was clear.

The furnace has never run, so there is no condensation yet. But, I put water in the drain trap since the instructions say to prime the trap prior to furnace startup.

I checked the hoses and switches with a piece of wire and made sure they were clear.


I tried sucking on the tube from the pressure switch and I heard the switch click, but the results are the same. The igniter glows for a few seconds and then stops. Then I get code E1.


If the gas valve was sending gas to the burner, would I hear a hissing sound? I don't hear or smell gas. I am thinking the gas valve is not sending gas to the burner.


Any more ideas?

I appreciate the help,

how 04-11-2012 10:48 AM

If gas is going through your furnace gas valve then there is no way of it leaving the combustion box for you to smell it except at the the exhaust outlet outside. Try your nose there.

You can usually hear/ feel a small click of the solinoid activating when the valve gets powered up at the same time that the HSI is glowing. A long handeled screwdriver with the business end against the valve and the handle against your ear will act as a stethascope.

You can also use a electrical meter to confirm that the valve is getting 24V when the HSI is glowing.

Your gas valve should have taps at either end to connect up a manometeter to test the pressure before or after the valve. Even if the valve is not working, you should be able to measure the upstream gas pressure.

Legacyairsystem 04-11-2012 12:22 PM

i had this problem before, the way i installed the new springs, caused the problem, i replaced the valve and installed the new springs (on a bench) out of the unit, next time i would atleast install them with the furnace laying down or position the valve so the springs drop in, unlike when the valve (and springs) are when the unit is siting upright. also the instructions should say how may turns out after the screw is turned in to its max,,,,,hope this helps

HVACDave 04-11-2012 12:27 PM

Since your hot surface igniotor is glowing, your pressure switch must have made for the inducer blower. Should be a valve on the top of the propane tank outside, possibly another where it comes into the house.

Can you see how much propane you have in your tank from the guage on the top of the tank? Were the lines purged when unit installed? Were the first and second stage regulators adjusted? Why didn"t the installer start up the unit and commission it properly?

I would suggest getting someone in to set it up correctly.

Jim33 04-11-2012 04:10 PM

I held a screwdriver against the gas valve and I definitely hear and feel a click about the same time the igniter starts to glow.

My water manometer shows about 9” WC when screwed into the inlet side of the gas valve. The manometer doesn’t move when I hook it up to the upstream side even when I hear the gas valve clicking. It seems I have no gas pressure on the upstream side of the valve when the igniter is glowing.

Shouldn't the gas flow through the valve when it clicks?


Fyi - I have converted the valve to propane (replaced the springs) but I haven’t adjusted the screws since my understanding is this must be done while the furnace is running.

Any more ideas?

Again, I appreciate the help.

beenthere 04-11-2012 04:20 PM

Pull hose of low stage pressure switch. Start furnace, leave it run for 10 seconds, put hose back on pressure switch and see what it does.

Jim33 04-11-2012 09:01 PM

I disconnected the hose, tried different time frames, but nothing.

At this point, does it make sense to remove the gas valve and check it for an obstruction?

Thanks,

cleveman 04-11-2012 09:24 PM

Is a flex connector involved?

Jim33 04-11-2012 09:46 PM

Yes. There is a flex connector.

beenthere 04-12-2012 04:07 AM

Should check to see if its getting 24 volt to it first.

cleveman 04-12-2012 06:28 AM

I had a friend who was trying to get a furnace running in his garage. There were a few of us helping him and drinking beer. The friend in question would scurry from one shut-off to the other, claiming to not be able to tell if they were on or off. So finally, I loosened up the flex connector where it connected to the furnace and there was no gas.

At this point, everyone gave up on him, and we continued to drink beer only.

About a week later, he announced that we had the flex connector hooked up backwards, and that gas would only flow in one direction through it. I've never heard of such a thing and I figured he just finally got his head out of his ass and figured out the shut-off valves.

But maybe there is such a flex connector, and maybe you have one...

Jim33 04-12-2012 06:48 AM

"flex connector" - I thought you were referring to the Brasscraft flexible stainless steel appliance connector . . . whatever people call it.

I was wondering where you were going with that question.

The shutoff is in the "off" position at the moment. I only turn it on when I am working on the unit and I will continue to leave it off until I figure out what the problem is.

The manometer shows gas pressure on the inlet side of the valve. I don't have a voltmeter that measures 24 volts . . . but I can hear and feel the gas valve click when the heater is in startup mode. I checked the wiring against the diagram to ensure it was wired properly and the connections were tight.

I plan to call a pro today. Appreciate everybody's assistance. Thanks,


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