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jeremptucker 10-19-2012 11:06 PM

new furnace control board same problems?
Hello guys and gals,
I have an old york diamond 80 furnace that was not running when started the first time after the summer. voltage was being supplied where it was supposed to be, the call for heat was there, but it wouldn't even begin to turn the inducer motor. A couple times, when bumping the safety switch you could hear a relay half click, and the inducer power for half a second then nothing. the led indicated "furnace lockout". after checking continuity in the motor(and directly applying voltage to be sure it turned), and testing for voltage coming from the board to the fan(nothing), I decided to buy a board. I got a source1 which various websites listed as a direct replacement for my board#031-01234-000. Here is the issue, with everything connected as it should be, the led is blinking slow green, which indicates normal operation but it doesn't cycle at all, or turn to a slow flashing amber with the call for heat like it should. Its like the board doesn't recognize that the call for heat is there! I have tested voltage and the thermostat is definitely calling for heat at the board. Is a bad board board something that could actually happen, or am I missing something? one difference between the new board and old one is that my old board had a grounding lug in the corner, this one does not. Also when I first hooked it up, I was getting an error for incorrect polarity or grounding, and the blower fan ran constantly, after reading online, another person with this board had the same issue and had to switch the polarity from the transformer(I took over 50 pictures from every angle on the old board, the wires were in the right spots). after switching the wires, seemed everything was good, but when i called for heat I get no change. any help is so appreciated, michigan winter is creeping up fast, and I just dont have hundreds of dollars for a service call. I do have a brain and ohmmeter though.

how 10-19-2012 11:30 PM

The first thing I'd do is detach the thermostat leads from the furnace at R & W and then jumper R to W.
Does the board supply power to the Inducer motor leads?

jeremptucker 10-20-2012 12:26 AM

so... yeah I jumped the "R" to the "W", and at first I got nothing with a "pressure switch stuck open warning led", no inducer fan. I figured I'd give it another shot, and viola, slow flashing amber led, Inducer fan, igniter, and ignition! I have a fairly cheap "ritetemp" digital thermostat, was that the culprit the whole time, or does this indicate another problem?

how 10-20-2012 01:04 AM

If the furnace will operate and fully cycle every time you jump R & W then reattach the old thermostat lines to R & W and connect them together at the thermostat location to confirm their integrity. If the furnace works,... change the stat. If it doesn't work then your lines are bad.
I am not sure what caused your first ghosting open pressure switch led code.
If it doesn't come back..ignore it.

jeremptucker 10-20-2012 01:11 AM

after I jumped them at the furnace, I jumped them behind the thermostat and it fired right up. It's weird that I jumped it before I changed the board and nothing worked, I wonder if I had a combo of problems. Didn't even think it might be the thermostat though, as its only about a year old! it does take batteries but there is no battery warning showing. maybe I can get away with some fresh batteries, and I'll feel like a complete idiot! thanks a million for the help, sometimes a fresh perspective is all you need.

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