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Old 02-14-2012, 08:39 PM   #31
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My Carrier high efficiency furnace


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The gas line does have a flexible connection to the far right of the furnace, but it does not have a drip section as you mentioned. I hope this did not cause the problem I am trying to deal with.
Sorry wxia, I wasn't very clear. The flex lines aren't required, but are fine to use, I just don't like them. In my opinion, connecting them to a fixed appliance is the lazy way. No biggy. As for the drip legs, their absence wouldn't cause the problems you're experiencing.

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Old 02-14-2012, 09:14 PM   #32
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hvac 5646: The flame sensor is in the flame compartment at the top. It is in pretty good condition based on my visual inspection.

hvac benny: The gas line does have a flexible connection to the far right of the furnace, but it does not have a drip section as you mentioned. I hope this did not cause the problem I am trying to deal with.

Houston204: I removed the edge pin connection, cleaned it with sand paper, and put it back. The connection looks fine or normal (no obvious corrosion noticed).

Tator1067: I taped up the door switch on suspicion of it being the problem. I accidentally had the hot wire touching the metal case resulting in the black mark (and tripping the circut breaker).

I will try to figure out how to inspect the secondary heat exchanger. This is going to be a difficult job.
I could have the entire heat exchanger on the flor in about 20 minutes......to me its an easy one to change.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:56 PM   #33
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hvac 5646: The flame sensor is in the flame compartment at the top. It is in pretty good condition based on my visual inspection.
Yeah, I finally got the model straight in my memory. YOURS does have a flame sensor.

The first diagram Houston posted did not ...it showed the model but the diagram showed a bi-metal pilot assembly instead of the flame sensor.

Problem was Hpuston's first diagram didn't show the full model number and I accepted it as your model.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:00 PM   #34
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Sorry wxia, I wasn't very clear. The flex lines aren't required, but are fine to use, I just don't like them. In my opinion, connecting them to a fixed appliance is the lazy way. No biggy. As for the drip legs, their absence wouldn't cause the problems you're experiencing.
That is just the way things are done in his neck of the woods. We use stainless steel connectors here also. But we run them from the black pipe drop and drip to the gas control.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:04 PM   #35
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Any body notice the condensate stain on the board????
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:22 PM   #36
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hvac5646: The "stain" at upper part of the board is not stain or condensate but dust accumulation due to a gap at the edge pin connector and suction from the blower.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:36 PM   #37
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None of my posts show the entire model number because it was never posted.

All of the other 58SX manuals (58SXA, 58SXB) show a bimetal flame sensor.

I did see that grey area but figured it was dirt.
I wonder if this much dust can cause an intermittant problem.

Last edited by Houston204; 02-14-2012 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:16 AM   #38
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hvac5646: The "stain" at upper part of the board is not stain or condensate but dust accumulation due to a gap at the edge pin connector and suction from the blower.
Ok..but it looks like a stain to me.




Danged low resolution monitor...that's what i get for buying a $100 monitor.

Last edited by hvac5646; 02-15-2012 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 04:53 PM   #39
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Dosy777: I have not figured out an easy way to inspect the heat exchanger. I opened the front of the evaporator and the evaporator coil blocks any view down. I may need to access from the side. On the parts warranty, I am not the original owner and the furnace is 20 years old. A reference mentioned early appear to indicate I would not get any warranty. But why would a bad secondary heat exchanger cause occational time out or no-restart, particuarly I could manually restart it with a flip of the power switch?
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:32 PM   #40
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Dosy777: I have not figured out an easy way to inspect the heat exchanger. I opened the front of the evaporator and the evaporator coil blocks any view down. I may need to access from the side. On the parts warranty, I am not the original owner and the furnace is 20 years old. A reference mentioned early appear to indicate I would not get any warranty. But why would a bad secondary heat exchanger cause occational time out or no-restart, particuarly I could manually restart it with a flip of the power switch?
The rust and corrosion is causing a back up or a slow drain and removal of condensate from the secondary heat exchanger, this is monitored by the pressure switches, and they are tied into the ignition control.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:07 PM   #41
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I have not had time to open the evaporator area to look into the heat exchanger. For the last two mornings in a row I noticed the furnace (my downstairs) was not running in the morning and temporature was about 62 degrees instead of 68 degrees called for. Each time I was able to restart it by switching the thermostat to off and then back right away.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:34 PM   #42
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Please start a new thread...and welcome to the site.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:34 PM   #43
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This is a very good tip for me. Once the box is replaced, please let me know how much the box costs you and where the device is located.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:45 PM   #44
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hvac5646: I am all for restarting a new thread, however the history would be lost on this particular issue.
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:30 PM   #45
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That's why we have pros to answer questions.... archives for posters to look up old threads


Last edited by hvac5646; 02-24-2012 at 04:56 PM.
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