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Old 12-12-2011, 02:30 PM   #31
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


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Hold your horses there Bro.
If you are getting a better air flow through the house with the humidifyer set up removed, why not just try turning the nib on your new unit down to a lower temp as well as leaving off the humidifyer set up? .

I think you'd get to keep that better flow, it would probably be more fuel efficient with a lower operating temp going through your furnace, and it's not good to activate a limit control like you were on an ongoing basis. Those limits are only designed for occaisional usage.
ok let me try adjusting to 80 i guess. the on switch is already at 150 and the limit 200.

what should i do if even these settings cause a short cycle?


Last edited by Arjun007; 12-12-2011 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:43 PM   #32
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


They are just simply bymetal mechanical temp contols that activate two switches. If your operating furnace temp is really that low then the folks here will help you deal with that situation.
It won't hurt anything to lower that off fan nib. Too low and the fan won't ever shut off but the correction for that is just to readjust the nib back up a bit higher.
Once you get the fan to stay on through the whole heating cycle and have it continue to run as long as the furnace can supply usable hot air out of the registers, then tell us what the normal operating temp is on the fan/limit control while the gas is burning.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:49 PM   #33
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


I turned it down to 80 and I also left only a crack open on a register in the 2nd floor bathroom. This vent is a direct path to the furnace and it gets the most heat and the heat continues even after the fan has stopped.

I am happy to report it has stabilized. It's running at 100 degrees on the dial. What is the ideal number it should run at?

(thanks again you saved me lol)
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:49 PM   #34
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


Now the furnace fan stays on the whole time but the furnace keeps coming on every 4 minutes or so.

What should I do and why is it doing this?
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:50 PM   #35
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


About 70 degrees warmer then the room/return air temp. Sounds like either your furnace has been down fired. Or, the blower needs slowed a bit.
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:54 PM   #36
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


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About 70 degrees warmer then the room/return air temp. Sounds like either your furnace has been down fired. Or, the blower needs slowed a bit.

How do I confirm which one needs adjustment or both? How do I adjust them? As seen in an earlier pic the blower is already at low for the heat. Not sure if you are talking about a different adjustment besides that one.

Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:27 PM   #37
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


100 F is lower than I would have expected.
I am assuming that you have a direct drive fan motor (no belts or pulleys attached)and that it has 3 to 6 wires coming from it. One of those wires (yellow) is going to the low connection in the picture you posted. Do you also have a red line from the motor which is taped or marreted off at the end? It might also be going to a park spot on your board.
If so, that is your lowest possible motor speed which could be swapped for the Yellow motor wire. This means turning off the breaker first. Running the red line from the motor to where the Yellow is now connected. Remove yellow and plug in the red line. Make sure you cut, marrett & tape the end of that yellow line because it will be live when you turn the breaker back on. This will probably raise your running temp 6 - 12 degrees.

When you say the furnace is coming on every 4 minutes are you saying that the thermostat is being satisfied for heat but is then turning back on again 4 minutes later?
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:31 PM   #38
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


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100 F is lower than I would have expected.
I am assuming that you have a direct drive fan motor (no belts or pulleys attached)and that it has 3 to 6 wires coming from it. One of those wires (yellow) is going to the low connection in the picture you posted. Do you also have a red line from the motor which is taped or marreted off at the end? It might also be going to a park spot on your board.
If so, that is your lowest possible motor speed which could be swapped for the Yellow motor wire. This means turning off the breaker first. Running the red line from the motor to where the Yellow is now connected. Remove yellow and plug in the red line. Make sure you cut, marrett & tape the end of that yellow line because it will be live when you turn the breaker back on. This will probably raise your running temp 6 - 12 degrees.

When you say the furnace is coming on every 4 minutes are you saying that the thermostat is being satisfied for heat but is then turning back on again 4 minutes later?
Yes, after the thermostat is satisfied for heat the furnace turns back on in 4 minutes. Isn't this too quick?
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:48 PM   #39
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


Is the better air flow that you reported after removing the humidifyer, blowing hot air at the thermostat??? Are there air registers than might need to be turned down that are overtly affecting the thermostat? What kind of thermostat do you have? Does the thermostat have an anticipater adjustment?

Last edited by how; 12-12-2011 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:58 PM   #40
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


The better airflow is from most of the ducts I think but more significant in the one in the lobby, kitchen, and bathroom. The thermostat is located in the living room and its one of those old honeywell mercury thermostats that you turn with a dial. The thermostat is located above a return.

The returns also seem more powerful sucking in more air now.

How do I check for an anticipator adjustment?
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Old 12-12-2011, 05:14 PM   #41
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


Is there a middle (outer) ring that comes off the thermostat to expose a small adjustable metal tang that can slide back and forth against a flat bar marked in gradiants from .2 to .09? If so, what gradiant does that tang point to on that bar.

Is there a heating outlet that most affects the thermostat? One that is probably closest to the thermostat in the living room? Does the living room get hotter than the rest of the house?

Is there a heating vent behind the wall of the thermostat that goes upstairs?

These questions are to feret out why your thermostat is flipping back and forth so quickly?

Last edited by how; 12-12-2011 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 05:26 PM   #42
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


verify that its running on low speed. I would render a guess, that the 11" insert is too long, and yours needs a 5 or 8". And someone put in an 11 because that is what they had with them. Check the tem p from the register when the fan is just about to shut off.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:10 PM   #43
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


Quote:
Originally Posted by how View Post
Is there a middle (outer) ring that comes off the thermostat to expose a small adjustable metal tang that can slide back and forth against a flat bar marked in gradiants from .2 to .09? If so, what gradiant does that tang point to on that bar.

Is there a heating outlet that most affects the thermostat? One that is probably closest to the thermostat in the living room? Does the living room get hotter than the rest of the house?

Is there a heating vent behind the wall of the thermostat that goes upstairs?

These questions are to feret out why your thermostat is flipping back and forth so quickly?
the tang is at .4 Is this correct?
The heating outlet in the living room is on the other side of the room under a big bubble window. The living room is uniform with the rest of the rooms I think.

The thermostat did not flip back and forth before doing these modifications but I think there may be a small heating vent in the wall beside the thermostat. I dont know for sure but when I put my hand on the wall it feels a little warmer. The warm part of the wall is prolly about half a foot to the left of the thermostat. The area around the thermostat is not warm though. Any other way to confirm? I'd prefer not to cut drywall out if possible.

Theres a kitchen cabinet on the other side of the wall which I removed and moved further up to fit a fridge under - upon drilling the screws back in, one of them would not go all the way in. I imagine it hit the duct but i'm not positive it pierced. This is just me guessing though - not really sure whats behind the wall.


Last edited by Arjun007; 12-12-2011 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:11 PM   #44
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


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verify that its running on low speed. I would render a guess, that the 11" insert is too long, and yours needs a 5 or 8". And someone put in an 11 because that is what they had with them. Check the tem p from the register when the fan is just about to shut off.
How do i confirm its low?

Check the temp on the register with a regular digital thermostat?
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:21 PM   #45
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Metal duct from furnace leading through a basement hole


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How do i confirm its low?

Check the temp on the register with a regular digital thermostat?
Switch speed wires to see if it is.

Yes, a digital thermometer.

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