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Old 10-13-2013, 09:46 AM   #16
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Lennox Superior Fireplace Problem


U R only as good as your weakest link in a MV system and any device with open contacts is the weakest link. Replace da switch.

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Old 10-13-2013, 10:45 AM   #17
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Already did. No effect.
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:54 AM   #18
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A new healthy powerpile should produce 700-750 MV with no load or wires attached to it. Below 650 and I replace them. When testing them DO NOT hold the wires with your fingers or your body drains the current. Use alligator clips on your probes. If the pilot burner is dirty and the flame not strong enough it won't heat the generator hot enough and the MVs drop. If you have excessive draft on the burner it can disturb the flame too and that is not easy to discuss or fix w/o me being there.
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:02 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by yuri View Post
A new healthy powerpile should produce 700-750 MV with no load or wires attached to it. Below 650 and I replace them. When testing them DO NOT hold the wires with your fingers or your body drains the current. Use alligator clips on your probes. If the pilot burner is dirty and the flame not strong enough it won't heat the generator hot enough and the MVs drop. If you have excessive draft on the burner it can disturb the flame too and that is not easy to discuss or fix w/o me being there.
Thanks for your post Yuri. I don't believe this is a draft issue, because we've never had any problems before now. I'm beginning to suspect that either the orifice is dirty, like you mentioned, or the Thermocouple may be a problem. I read (please correct me if I'm wrong) that if the Thermopile is defective usually the pilot light won't stay lit, which it does.

How do I clean the orifice?
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:25 AM   #20
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The thermopile gets progressively weaker until hit hits the dropout point which may be 2-300MV and B4 that happens the burner won't go on so that info is wrong. The pilot will hold at 300MV but it needs the extra power to literally open the valve, There are 2 valves, pilot and main.

You would need to remove the whole pilot burner and CAREFULLY disassemble it and clean it. I would get a Pro to do it because you could end up with a gas leak at the fittings on the burner and at the valve if you don't seat them and test them with soap properly etc. The logs need to be set properly and the main burner etc or CO can be produced. People have died from CO from leaky or poorly burning fireplaces. Now you are entering dangerous territory.
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:28 AM   #21
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Sounds good. Perhaps I should call in a pro.
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:30 AM   #22
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Reread my previous post as I added to it.

Yeah, we had a tragedy in Ontario a few yrs ago where a woman survived but her kids and hubby died from a leaky fireplace. Sad part was she was a nurse ( should have been aware of CO symptoms?), thought they had flu symptoms for several days and turns out it was the fireplace poisoning them. I use a CO sniffer after working on them.
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:37 AM   #23
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We do have a CO alarm plugged in right next to the fireplace for that very reason. We also have a second one in our laundry room. When it comes to gas I don't take any chances, which is why I'll likely call in the pros.
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:40 AM   #24
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The problem with CO detectors is that not all of them detect small continuos amounts which can slowly poison you. They are meant for major events/chimney blockages etc. For under $50 you cannot always get that sensitivity and accuracy. Pro units cost $200-1000 or more and need calibrating.
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:43 AM   #25
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Well, at least it's something. I wonder if the gas company will come out and check for leaks?
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:46 AM   #26
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Some do. Ours does and they have very expensive properly calibrated testers that can read 1 ppm down to 1% accuracy. Read the specs on your HDepot unit and the guaranteed sensitivity is the issue plus they lose sensitivity with age, good for 5 yrs somewheres I read.
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Last edited by yuri; 10-13-2013 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:15 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcrossley2 View Post
We do have a CO alarm plugged in right next to the fireplace for that very reason. We also have a second one in our laundry room. When it comes to gas I don't take any chances, which is why I'll likely call in the pros.
Get low level CO detectors.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:19 PM   #28
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A neighbor suggested using compressed air to clean out the gas outlets. What do you think?
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:43 PM   #29
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You gotta be kidding? Did we not discuss the safety issues? I don't condone DIYers taking apart actual gas burners or doing anything to them that can affect the flame or combustion. Fireplaces can be worse than furnaces as they are actually in your living area. A furnace can spill fumes and they get sucked back up into the chimney thru a draft diverter, not so with a fireplace.
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Last edited by yuri; 10-13-2013 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 10-13-2013, 01:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yuri View Post
You gotta be kidding? Did we not discuss the safety issues? I don't condone DIYers taking apart actual gas burners or doing anything to them that can affect the flame or combustion. Fireplaces can be worse than furnaces as they are actually in your living area. A furnace can spill fumes and they get sucked back up into the chimney thru a draft diverter, not so with a fireplace.
Relax Yuri. I'm not taking anything apart. I'm simply cleaning out the fireplace with a vacuum cleaner and compressed air. Plus I'm removing the embers (rock wool), vermiculite, and decorative stone. The best case scenario is the cleaning works. The worst case scenario is at least the fireplace will be cleaned when the service tech arrives.

Does that make you feel better?

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