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MikeVila 07-29-2012 12:37 PM

Leaking evap. pan!
Water all over floor. Can see water leaking from pan onto blower motor and such. Drain isn't clogged as can pour water and will flow outside steadily. U am thinking was clogged at one time and sat and rusted and worked itself free. Can I remove the evap coil and somehow repair or am I screwed?
On a side note all of a sudden today the evap coils and piping became covered with what seemed to be frost completely through cooks and all. I immediately shut it off.

turnermech 07-29-2012 01:55 PM

you can't in most cases remove the coil without cutting the rfrigerant lines. Unit must be pumped down into itself to cut the refrigerant lines. Not really a homeowner job.

Your issue seems to be unit is freezing and melting ice is missing the pan. you need to corrrect the freezing issue and your condensate issue should fix itself.
coil is freezing due to refrigerant (low charge, bad metering device, or restriction) or air flow (dirty coil, dirty filter, bad fan, ductwork restriction, bad capacitor).

MikeVila 07-29-2012 02:29 PM

Update: the coils were freezing because we had the bottom door off the air handler (covers blower). I remember reading issues about fan speed and such do I guess was creating too much sir?
We were running it and u decided to shut it off to clean around it. When shutting it down water just pours out of the unit. It drenches the blower motor and runs everywhere and can watch it pour from underneath like your pouring bucket of water on floor!
Does this help diagnose the issue?

MikeVila 07-29-2012 02:30 PM

Also; while unit was running there was no water in the pan!

turnermech 07-29-2012 02:50 PM

suck out the drain from where it terminates with a shop vac. this will ensure there is no clog. I know you said water is coming out when you pour water in but depending on where you pour it in the clog may be ahead of that. Like right at the drain pan.

is it heat pump or gas furnace/ AC or oil furnace / AC? These each have some unique issues to themselvs which may send me one direction or another.

Has it worked well in the past? Or is this a newer system or new to you?

MikeVila 07-29-2012 03:54 PM

Electric heat pump/ central air unit approximate is 10 years old in mobile home. Never really had many issues. This winter I replaced capacitor and contactor. Been working fine and just happened notice water. Initially thought it was washer it hot water heater.
I vacuumed up water and as its sitting not running water seems to still be coming out of the back of it. I have the model # also.
Service guy supposed come out tomorrow. I hate paying people ridiculous money as I usually do all my own repairs. What do you think is the main root of problem?
I poured water at the front of the a coil where it enters drain. Is there done major clog on backside along with rusted out making it flood out back?
Thank you for all input and time. This forum taught me a lot about HVAC when I had to replace contactor and capacitor.

TopTechnician 07-29-2012 04:02 PM

If your pan is level or pitched slightly towards the front (as it should be), and it is leaking out the back, you probably need a new pan. The a/c guy will recommend a new system; it is a risky repair for him... disturbing the coil and all, you could wind up with a refrigerant leak when he's done. Repairing the pan seldom works, because if it is rusted through in one spot, there are 5 other spots getting ready to rust through also. But who knows, maybe the repairman will feel lucky tomorrow.
How old is the system?
How much "slack" is there in the refrigerant piping? Usually the piping comes out of the coil and right down through the floor, leaving no play for lifting or moving the coil.

turnermech 07-29-2012 04:10 PM

I lived in a moblie home many years ago when I was just starting in the trade. I had a similar issue floor kep getting wet. I cleaned the drain many times. everything seemed normal and the carpet would get wet again. I figured the drain pan was leaking through the rust (it was old and very rusty). I was able to leave the coil in place but lift it slightly and remove the pan from under it. It was not easy and a few time I came close to breaking things. Once I got it out I cleaned it and coated the bottom with roofing tar. Never had a problem after that. Looking back now I am not sure if I would have handled it that way, but it worked. I am not sure if the rust was leaking or if the rust was trapping water from flowing to the drain line and then being sucked down by the blower.

I can't say this is your problem but if the drain is not clogged it is a good chance.

MikeVila 07-29-2012 04:30 PM

I can look under the pan/a coil and see wetness and black mold. I can get a brand new a coil with plastic pan for around $400. There is no slack in the refrigerant lines. The wife wants to have guy come out and see what everything would cost installed. I told her they will charge probably $600 for same thing if they supply it. Shouldn't have to replace air handler correct? I figure to have them do everything it will be at least $1000-$1,200 easy. The system is 8 years old not 10. Our home is a larger home and think it actually needs a 4 ton unit when we replace everything.
What would the "average" cost be to have new a coil itself swapped out?

TopTechnician 07-29-2012 04:46 PM

Don't buy your own coil. I don't know how much it will be where you live, but if you buy the coil yourself then you won't get any warranty on the contractor's work. No matter what goes wrong, it will be the coil's fault.

turnermech 07-29-2012 07:55 PM

not to mention it will cost you the same. I install all kinds of things customer buy online or a relative can get cheap (units, tstats, coils, parts). I make the same. I work my price as I was buying it. subtract cost of what they provide. come to the cost to do the job.

this may seem unfair at first, but why should I make less for the same job. In most cases it is harder for me when you get it yourself. most times there are factors you may not know that I consider when selecting a unit or part such as amp draws, wire sizes, equipment physical size ect.. Many times there are opions for the same things which make install easier

MikeVila 07-29-2012 09:29 PM

I completely understand and respect all trades. If I was doing a system from scratch or upgrading and changing systems I wouldnt attempt none if that. Only reason I was contemplating was because I'd be buying exact same replacement.
Once again I appreciate these virus and have lots of respect for you pros. I will keep this thread updated!!

scottmcd9999 07-30-2012 06:21 AM

There are some things a homeowner just should not do themselves. This is one of those things. Motor replacments, capacitors, contactors ... those are easy to do, and really just require swapping wires and tightening bolts. Coils require specialized tools and experience, refrigerant handling, proper attention to industry practices, etc etc ... IMO, just not really a DIY type of job.

MikeVila 07-31-2012 02:01 PM

UPDATE: serviceman came out and said he could replace the a coil with a Goodman cased a coil for between $850-$1100 off top of head. He checked condensor and said it is towards the end of its life also with ice damage to some fins and leaking/rusty accumulator. He is supposed to get me a quote to swap to a 4ton coil and condensor as I have 3.5 ton now. He is actually checking #'s as he said thought might be a 3ton. Lol id flip my lid.
Just getting educated about the SEER ratings. My unit is an 8 year old Intertherm/Nordyne hear pump. Coil #= C3QA-047U-B and air handler=E3EB-023H 5 ton.
Anyone tell me what SEER I have?

beenthere 07-31-2012 03:56 PM

1989, probably 10 SEER. Be carefull increasing size on a heat pump. Your duct system is probably already under sized for a 3.5 ton, so increasing to a 4 ton could cause lots of air flow problems, along with reliability problems.

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