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Old 12-01-2009, 06:50 PM   #1
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insulation tape


any body have any opinions on whats the best kind of tape to use to seal kraft faced insulation?

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Old 12-01-2009, 07:27 PM   #2
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insulation tape


I think you use the same kind of tape they use on Tyvek house wrap.

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Old 12-01-2009, 08:15 PM   #3
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insulation tape


i used 3/8" fanfold on my house and the tape was kinda like a thicker from of the clear looking packing tape, is that what your refering to? i was told at hd to use duck tape and, not to nock em' but i dont usally trust anthing they tell me.
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:48 PM   #4
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insulation tape


I know what kind of tape you're talking about roadhouse. It's different than the Tyvek tape, but it seems like it would work really well too. I bought a roll of it last weekend and I think it was in the area at Lowe's where they sell stuff to weatherproof a house. It was a little over $8 a roll.

I guess the best thing to do is get a rough estimate of how many feet of it you'll need and see which kind is the least expensive.

I think I'd still lean toward the tape they use for Tyvek. Only because when it's used outside it holds up through hot and cold weather year after year.

If you're in Canada, I think it's called 'Tuck Tape'. Whether or not that's the brand name, I'm not sure.
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gma2rjc View Post
If you're in Canada, I think it's called 'Tuck Tape'. Whether or not that's the brand name, I'm not sure.
Yes, that's the brand name, made by Canadian Technical Tape Ltd. Red stuff. Whenever I'm planning an insulation project, I get my Dad to mail me some from Canada. Pleasant to work with because it smells like cranberries.
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Old 12-02-2009, 12:18 PM   #6
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When I needed some of that tape last year, I went to Lowe's and asked for it. The two employees I asked looked at me like I was asking what aisle I could find rocket fuel in. Then I explained what I needed it for and they showed me the tape for the Tyvek.

I wish I could get someone to send me some Roxul insulation from Canada. I want to use it when I insulate my basement. O course, it would cost a few dollars more to send the insulation than it does to ship rolls of tape, lol. Maybe more than the cost of the insulation itself.
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:21 PM   #7
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huh, canada "eh" lol. i live in northern ny, all of 5 minutes from the canadian border. looks like ill be heading over to get some tuck tape and maybe a poutin.
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:47 PM   #8
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Well there you go!

I live about 2.5 to 3 hours from Windsor. One of these days, if I ever remember to get a passport, I'd like to head over there for the insulation.

Poutin? I think I like ketchup better. lol
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:22 PM   #9
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well, i just called and they have it in stock for three dollars and some change a roll. thanks for the info. i guess its time to get to work!
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:25 PM   #10
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That's a great price. Much less than what I paid here.

Good luck with your project.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:28 PM   #11
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Should the joints be taped?
Johns Manville does not recommend nor require that the joints be taped. Vapor retarders
are area weighted. The small gaps would not allow a significant amount of water vapor
through the wall, ceiling or floor. From: http://www.insulating-products.com/p...lation_FAQ.pdf
Be safe, Gary
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:51 PM   #12
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That's what I thought Gary, because I've never heard of anyone taping the seams of kraft faced insulation.

But, why is it that if you are using a 6 mil vapor barrier with un-faced insulation, every seam and pinhole have to be taped. It even has to be sealed where the poly meets the floor.

I saw on the Holmes on Homes show that one pin hole or nail hole in the poly will allow the equivalent of 1 cup of water to get into the insulation in one season.

Maybe the kraft paper allows the moisture to get into the insulation, but also lets it escape?
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Old 12-04-2009, 12:45 AM   #13
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To get started, “not stapling tabs”: http://www.certainteed.com/additiona..._Retarders.pdf

A vapor barrier or a vapor retarder: http://www.energysavers.gov/your_hom.../mytopic=11810

A good read: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/...papers/143.pdf


Location, location, location: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/...papers/143.pdf

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Old 12-04-2009, 09:49 PM   #14
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well see if you can figure this out. i have two metolbestos chimneys side by side, one 8" for wood furnace and one 6" for an oil furnace.(they are properly spaced apart and the right height). when im heating with either one, im getting a down draft from the other one. to me this means the air is being sucked down because air is being lost out of the house. an dfrom the tests i performed, i think the air is being lost out the ceiling( right now its not finished, just kraft faced r38) becase when i open windows in the basement where the furnaces are, the down draft in the unused chimney gets "less". but if i open a window in the upsairs it gets worse. and also if i completly seal the door zto the basement the down draft gets "less"(sorry about the termanology). the rest of the house is sealed pretty tight. the order of constructio is vinyl siding,3/8 " fanfold(taped) 7/16 osb, fraft faced r21 and sheetrock on the walls that is primed and two cotas of paint. is there something i missing thasts a better solution? i absolutly would like some opinions (i wont take it as criticism), thanks, john
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Old 12-04-2009, 09:53 PM   #15
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oh, and asfor the unfinished ceiling, that shouldnt matter because sheetrock is a rating of 50 perm, right?

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