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-   -   Installing Unimatch Water Feeder (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/installing-unimatch-water-feeder-13768/)

helpless handyman 11-25-2007 09:14 PM

Installing Unimatch Water Feeder
 
Hi guys, how hard is it to install McDonnell and Miller Unimatch 110 volt WFU-120 water feeder? I have a Series 101-A McDonnell and Miller water feeder installed already, and want to replace it. Thanks

skymaster 11-26-2007 10:45 AM

Whats wrong with the 101? They are all but bulletproof. Have you been flushing it occasionally?

helpless handyman 11-26-2007 06:24 PM

Yes, you better beleive it. They are in fact bullet proof:laughing: . I have one now, and its working fine, but when my boiler lets out steam, and the boiler request for water, this thing quickly starts filling up the boiler. I figure the WF2 Unimatch has a timer delay, which would help from flooding. What do you think??

skymaster 11-26-2007 08:45 PM

hmmmmm flooding that quickly doesnt make sense. First a question Not bustin ya. Are you sure the float in the 101 is NOT compromised? If it has pinholes and is filled with water it will flood. Just like the float in a carb. Second thing if you already dont have a valve in the line to the feeder than I would put one in, ball valve; This way if nothing else you can restrict the flow to the feeder thereby to the boiler and let the wet returns catch up.
LITTLE DETAILS TO CHECK, all the radiator vents, be sure they are working freely, if they are not then the wet returns will run very slowly which can flood cause the feeder fills it right and then the returns overfill it.
I trust you know there is a rebild kit for the 101's. Not hard to do, just some patience. Secret is REALLY CLEAN IT OUT The float can stick on its little pivot and that will flood also.
If your 101 has some years on it, might not hurt to do that just for squats and giggles. If you do MAKE VERY SURE THERE IS A NEW FLOAT IN THE KIT.

helpless handyman 11-26-2007 09:48 PM

Okay, it hasn't flooded, and I won't allow it too. I have a shut off valve before the water feeder. What was happening, the boiler would shoot out the steam, when the water level got low, the low water cut off did it's job (request water). What I was seeing, was that the boiler wasn't waiting for the return to come back and would ask for water. I assume maybe the 1 in return wasn't big enough for the water to come back, and was told by a few folks including you s/b 1 1/4. I have been working with this system since last year. Bought the house in the middle of the summer, boiler wasn't turned on. I did renovations to the house and been going crazy with steam heat. But I am getting to know this system pretty good. I just thought, okay 1 1/4 water return is good now, lets see what happens. Its not that cold yet. I also notice when its gets cold, she ask for more water frequently. So thats where the Unimatch comes in, I figure I got 1 1/4 return, if I change the auto water feeder to a delay one. This will probably help, since this feeder has a delay on it, which this will give time for the water to return, and no water called for? What do you think, am I making any sense? Also, since you have steam heat, how often does your boiler request for water?? Once a day, once a week? This way I have an idea. Thanks alot for your time!

skymaster 11-26-2007 10:21 PM

my boiler asks for water maybe once a month. Sounds to me that the returns are suspect. If there is a blockage in there that could do it. Snoop around make sure every single inch of the returns really are 1 1/4 and clear.
Another thought just hit me; OW you say u changed returns to 1 1/4, DID you change it right INTO the boiler or did you just change what you could easily see? Again NOT bustin ya here.
I will check my boiler in AM cause now that I am thunkin bout it; I have single pipe system which of course goes to each side of house therefore I have 2 1 1/4 wet returns HOWEVER they tie into 1 1/2 , and return into the bottom of boiler. I will verify and give you my plumbing layout, gees I did it ya would think I could remember it, damn senility. to keep the flow of any 2 similar pipes flowing at their right volume needs a LARGER pipe where they combine. Your sewer is 4" joined by 3" toilet joined by 2" or 1 1/2 drains. 4" is required to handle the accumulated flow

helpless handyman 11-27-2007 07:46 AM

First of all, Thanks Skymaster its great talking with someone with a similar system. Yes, I did the water return 1 1/4 all the way into the boiler, no short cuts here!! It took me a good 5 hours, just trying to loosen these pipes off, especially behind the boiler, not enough room and I am 6 ft tall, lol. The header is 2 inc, from there it branches to the radiator in 1 inc pipe. My supply line runs from one side of the basement, to the other side, roughly 36ft. At the end of the supply, I have an elbow 2inc with a reducing bushing, 2 inc to 1 1/4. Then I have 1 1/4 all the way into the back of the boiler. The hartford loop is also 1 1/4, all of it. At what height do you have your sight glass at? I keep mine at 2/3 rds, if I do it half full, she will start squirting water out of the last radiator on the run. Man, once a month, I wish I can get there.. Like I said, purchashed the house last year in the summer, boiler wasn't fired up. I was told it wiorked, luckily the sellers are out of town!!!! The water return was 1 inc, running along the side wall of the basement, say 4 ft up from the floor. I changed it and brought it down to boiler water level, and slope it all the way down towards the boiler, hitting the floor and then the loop. Thanks


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