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Old 01-07-2013, 04:07 PM   #16
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Find the size of orifice/orifices it has and see what BTU that size is rated at, and then multiply by the number of burners it has.

Hope your house is drafty. Cause that thing will need a lot of air from your house to burn. Is there a chimney near whee you are going to install it.

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Old 01-07-2013, 05:30 PM   #17
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It will be vented , I'll see if I can find the orifice. on it
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:45 PM   #18
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That beast is either 35 or 40k btu...and it's also a death trap.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:13 PM   #19
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Nice! looks like an old Gibson Amp? 12AX7's?
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:26 PM   #20
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that beast is either 35 or 40k btu...and it's also a death trap.
do you want to add to that or just dump that on me.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:30 PM   #21
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find the size of orifice/orifices it has and see what btu that size is rated at, and then multiply by the number of burners it has.

Hope your house is drafty. Cause that thing will need a lot of air from your house to burn. Is there a chimney near whee you are going to install it.
*************************************someone else said it's dangerous are you saying that also
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:55 PM   #22
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you have an unreliable boat anchor .......... pay your insurance fast..... .nothing good gonna happen from that piece of s.......t...throw it out......
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:15 AM   #23
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By the tone it sounds like they are giving me crap but if this really is dangerous I would like to know. Is there a sound opinion here.
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:17 AM   #24
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*************************************someone else said it's dangerous are you saying that also
All the combustion air and dilution air comes from within the house. So it will take a low of air for it to burn close to proper.

Some of those early models didn't have a thermal safety, and could over heat to the point of causing a fire. I think the one you have is one of those models. you can check and see if it has a thermal safety.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:26 AM   #25
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Some issues you need to consider:

As Beenther mentioned, there is no thermal cutout/rollout switch on those old heaters. A stuck gas valve could cause overheating.

How sound is the heat exchanger? Something that old could be past its usefull life as far as the heat exchanger goes. If there is a crack or rust hole somewhere on it it will leak CO into the room/house.

Putting this into a garage is a big safety issue. I am sure if your insurance co found out about it they would drop you right then and there. The reason this is unsafe in a garage is basicaly you have an open flame. One small gas leak on the car, lawnmower, gas can, etc and it is all over accept for the weenie roast
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:41 AM   #26
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Thank you very much for the reply, if what you mean by a safety device is the thermal coupler and thermostat on it. It has them. I can see the burner and it looks like it is new. I really like these old burners , I'm cooking on a 1932 tappan in the house and If I can use this I would really like to. There's is a picture of the mete on the first pager , it's a unitrol 110 which is still being made. I was told that it was a upgrade.. This meter is the same as meters that are common today on hot water heaters. So I'm assuming it is a good control. As You can see I really would like to use this but if I shouldn't I won't I'm of course looking for advice.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:00 AM   #27
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The thermocouple serves only to tell the gas valve that the pilot is lit. If the pilot goes out then the gas valve will/should not open. A thermal cutout is something more newer heaters come with. should the heater overheat or the flames "roll" out of the fire box it will shut down. As I mentioned, an open flame heater like this is not the best idea in a garage due to the posibility of fumes

I can understand the nostalgia of using older antiques, but there are precautions that need to be taken. Regarding your old stove...While it sounds cool, what kind of condition are the valves in. Over time the seals wear out and they develop leaks.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:26 AM   #28
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Had a 1946 chambers gas stove once. We stripped it down completly. I had the valve assembly out and replaced all the seals. I called my grandfather to help me pressure test it. We cobbled up a set of fittings and a pressure valve and then pumped in some nitrogen. Lots of soapy water and no leaks!!! Grandpa got confused and turned the regulator from 20 ps to 100psi. One of the valves shot out across the yard!!! I latter called the gas company and found that the inside pressure in our house was 1/4 psi. LOL we over tested that valve like 400 percent!!!! Btw, it was a great stove/oven, even had the little match hole to light the oven (waaaummp when it lit) and a standing pilot light on the stovetop (more than one ouch thats hot!!) Lots of chrome everywhere!!!
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:03 PM   #29
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My garage is a wood shop not for cars , isn't there open flames on most natural gas garage heaters, I will be in there while it is burning, I'm using a oil burning parlor stove now. I can be talked out of this but you can see I'm trolling for something that would allow me to use it and feel a little bit safe.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:20 PM   #30
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I can be talked out of this but you can see I'm trolling for something that would allow me to use it and feel a little bit safe.
The safety decision will be entirely up to you on this. Nobody here, especially those of us that work on heating systems, will say it will be safe to use. We simply don't have it in front of us to inspect and from experience we have seen scary issues with old heaters. Heck I had a scary issue with a 10 year old furnace over the weekend.

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