Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > HVAC

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-08-2010, 07:04 AM   #121
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 670
Share |
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
I would relocate that supply to after the coil. By using a side take off, and just run it close to the duct work until it can ell back up into the joist bay where it is.

You will want to relocate the humidifiers bypass line.

I would try and have the coils the same distance from the air handler on each side(not an easy thing to do with your current trunk set up).
Since that is one of the closer registers and I usually have the damper about 1/3 the way closed, I guess adding an extra elbow has a minimal effect on the CFM for that duct, right?

Each HE will be about 4" from the furnace supply. That gives me enough room to get 2 sets of 3 turning vanes above the AH.

__________________
-Andrew
DIY hobbiest
AndrewF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2010, 07:13 AM   #122
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,416
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewF View Post
Since that is one of the closer registers and I usually have the damper about 1/3 the way closed, I guess adding an extra elbow has a minimal effect on the CFM for that duct, right?

If you use a round start collar, and then an ell it won't have much effect.
If you use a take off, it will decrease air flow a lot. I made that mistake once or twice.

Each HE will be about 4" from the furnace supply. That gives me enough room to get 2 sets of 3 turning vanes above the AH.
That should be good.
beenthere is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2010, 10:59 PM   #123
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 670
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


If I dont buy a balancing valve this season, the "worst" that would happen is that one heat exchanger would possibly get more GPM than the other, right? Is this likely to change during operation or should it be pretty consistent once set up?

My thought is that since I have more SQ being heated one direction of my supply trunk than the 2nd HE would handle on the other side, I could just put in a ball valve on the one with lower SQ being conditioned and close it however much it took to maintain an equal temp of the air through each HE. (I have the valves and was hoping to not have to spend another $80 right now on a balancer.)

I was originally thinking of soldering in a T in the 1 1/4" copper line from the boiler that currently steps down to 1" pex and goes to one HE. It would be easier if I can just splice a 1" PEX T instead.

Do I need to be concerned with a GPM restriction of going that route and loss of efficiency?
__________________
-Andrew
DIY hobbiest

Last edited by AndrewF; 02-08-2010 at 11:10 PM.
AndrewF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2010, 12:48 AM   #124
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,416
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Ball valves generally don't make good balancing valves.
But. You can do it, and see how it works.
beenthere is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 12:42 AM   #125
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 670
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


I got it all put back together and working. I have a few piece of metal to fabricate up to seal around the heat exchangers and the tie in to the old trunk.

I decided to plumb them in a series for now and see how well this works. I dont have probes on the supply and return water lines to see what the temperature drop is.

My thermometer in the trunk that is fed 2nd (right side of photos), has a temperature reading of 12 lower than the supply fed by the heat exchanger that gets hot water first.

This is fine with me, as the side that I have getting cooler water temp, has a lot less SQ of house to heat.

If I wanted to lower the temperature the boiler kicks back on, that is the little "lever" on the temp wheel in the last photo, right?

I understand how to change the high limit.
Attached Thumbnails
Indoor Boiler Question-img_2862-small-.jpg   Indoor Boiler Question-img_2863-small-.jpg   Indoor Boiler Question-img_2870-small-.jpg   Indoor Boiler Question-img_2879-small-.jpg  
__________________
-Andrew
DIY hobbiest
AndrewF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 12:45 AM   #126
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 670
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Temperature readings with the Heat Pump on.

Thermostat
72

HVAC Return
73

HVAC Supply - North (1st HE on the left)
125

HVAC Supply - South (2nd HE on the right)
129

HVAC Suction
100

HVAC Liquid Line
79

HVAC Condenser
12
__________________
-Andrew
DIY hobbiest
AndrewF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 01:14 AM   #127
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,416
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


That should be a cold start boiler, and only have a single aquastat. The temp you set it at is its off temp. It should be a fixed differential. So you won;t be able to adjust it.
beenthere is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 01:14 AM   #128
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,416
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


What was the OD temp when you took those readings.
beenthere is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 07:28 AM   #129
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 670
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
That should be a cold start boiler, and only have a single aquastat. The temp you set it at is its off temp. It should be a fixed differential. So you won;t be able to adjust it.
Ok, so that thing that looks like a lever on the wheel, does nothing? I notice that when I rotate the whole wheel, the temperature changes. So I wasnt sure if that "tab/lever" was the low set point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
What was the OD temp when you took those readings.
18F.

I do have my electric heat strips still in there, I'll do another heat rise test after I button everything up to see where my CFM is at.

I will say that having air temps above 100 coming out of the vents does make the house feel warmer.

Now I can stop getting up at 4am to feed the wood stove insert.

Beenthere, thank you for all of your input on this project.
__________________
-Andrew
DIY hobbiest

Last edited by AndrewF; 02-14-2010 at 07:37 AM.
AndrewF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 06:23 PM   #130
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,416
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Your welcome.

The tab is a safety stop so it can't be set above 240 or some temp like that.

The vapor line should be about 100F above outdoor ambient temp. So yours is a bit low.
They summer, when you have the charge checked. They will probably find its a bit over charged.
Once corrected, you get better heat from your system next winter.

Bet it will be nice to sleep in tomorrow.
beenthere is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to beenthere For This Useful Post:
AndrewF (03-04-2010)
Old 02-14-2010, 06:37 PM   #131
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 670
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
Your welcome.

The tab is a safety stop so it can't be set above 240 or some temp like that.

The vapor line should be about 100F above outdoor ambient temp. So yours is a bit low.
They summer, when you have the charge checked. They will probably find its a bit over charged.
Once corrected, you get better heat from your system next winter.

Bet it will be nice to sleep in tomorrow.
SLeep in? HAH!

We do have the t-stat set at 75 now...house is much cozier. Hopefully I can stop running the electric heaters in the boys room at night.

Yeah, its never been 100 above outdoor temp. I vaguely remember making a post about that a year ago...if it was normal or not.

I also am measuring the suction temp at the AH. Shouldn't I be measuring it close the the outdoor condenser? Even though the suction line is insulated from the condenser, it is about 30' of pipe to the AH.
__________________
-Andrew
DIY hobbiest
AndrewF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 06:47 PM   #132
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,416
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Generally it would be measured within 6" of the service valve.

75? Thats toasty temp.

Well. Sleeping until 5 instead of 4 is sleeping in isn't it.
beenthere is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 07:58 PM   #133
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 670
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
Generally it would be measured within 6" of the service valve.

75? Thats toasty temp.

Well. Sleeping until 5 instead of 4 is sleeping in isn't it.
I have an extra probe, I might put it on the suction line just inside the house, so it is not susceptible to outdoor temps.

Going to bed at 1, getting up 4 hours later...really messes with ones REM sleep.

Toasty, you bet. The HP couldn't get the house this warm when it was cold, without costing me a year of my retirement

This week I'll be rigging up sensors on my boiler so I can measure run-time and from there figure out the approximate gallons of diesel I use per day. If my nozzle is rated at .85 gph, how accurate is that? Meaning, how much can it change based on the PSI my burner pump is generating?

Are you familar with remote fuel oil tank gauges?

This tank appears to have one in it, the wires coming from the tank are capped off in a gang box in the basement. I have no idea how to see if they work, short of putting an OHM meter on it.
__________________
-Andrew
DIY hobbiest
AndrewF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2010, 08:10 PM   #134
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,416
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


Can't tell you how accurate they are.
Should be the same as a cars gas tank as far as operation though.

GPH can be a lot different at 140PSIG then at 100PSIG.
beenthere is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 05:15 PM   #135
An old Tradesmen
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 24,416
Default

Indoor Boiler Question


So how did it work this winter.

beenthere is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Basement Renovation Question KUIPORNG Remodeling 234 08-26-2008 08:19 AM
hrv question indep HVAC 3 07-17-2008 10:39 PM
Basement vapor barrier question rob7young Remodeling 2 04-13-2008 09:10 AM
New service Question Onytay Electrical 1 10-24-2007 05:47 AM
One furnace question and one thermostat question lh0628 HVAC 4 10-11-2007 10:17 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.