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Old 06-03-2012, 11:36 AM   #1
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I'm an AC PRO? be careful...?


be careful with this commercial you need the car at operating temps and at 2000 rpms (simulating 55mph) and please purge that hose before connecting it...or the air will burp into the system....stay away from the HI SIDE of the system with the connector with the system runningBAAA BOOM.just add the gas don't tip the can then if your compressor is cycling as you add gas it will catch and run steady.grab the suction line continue charge freon,and when you feel the rush of ice cold on that line stop charging....and get off that 2000rpms NOTE: the difference between MAX air and HI air on the fan is the outside damper is closed in MAX ait that is why it feels colder always do your chargeing with the windows open in the car to add a load verify what freon your car takes 99% are 134-A but older cars still use R-12 but that aces the AC pro EPA has taken it out of sales to the public...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wn0C9...feature=relmfu


Last edited by biggles; 06-03-2012 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:29 PM   #2
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I have to admit I have always tipped the can over to charge the system faster. I recently found out why you should not...it's putting liquid refrigerant into the compressor at that point (low side = suction side, as in the intake to the compressor), and this could damage the compressor, washing away oil as you do so, especially the piston kind found in the automotive field! Compressors don't compress liquid (you can't) they compressor vapor...I had no idea.

I replaced the entire ac system in my wife's car 3 years ago, somehow it's still running fine down here in NC, but am learning much more now with household HVAC, and enjoying it much more. Good tips thanks!!

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Old 06-03-2012, 12:49 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by biggles View Post
be careful with this commercial you need the car at operating temps and at 2000 rpms (simulating 55mph) and please purge that hose before connecting it...or the air will burp into the system....stay away from the HI SIDE of the system with the connector with the system runningBAAA BOOM.just add the gas don't tip the can then if your compressor is cycling as you add gas it will catch and run steady.grab the suction line continue charge freon,and when you feel the rush of ice cold on that line stop charging....and get off that 2000rpms NOTE: the difference between MAX air and HI air on the fan is the outside damper is closed in MAX ait that is why it feels colder always do your chargeing with the windows open in the car to add a load verify what freon your car takes 99% are 134-A but older cars still use R-12 but that aces the AC pro EPA has taken it out of sales to the public...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wn0C9...feature=relmfu
Biggles, a very timely post as I just heard a (radio) commercial for the product and watched the video. Hope you can answer a few questions.

First off, in the video, it shows hooking the canister (after removing the protective shield to the hose unit. After hooking up (without purging), it says to add a can of refrigerant if your pressure is in the red zone. That's a long hose full of air by the way. Now, in order to do this, you must remove the original canister. Since it is now pierced, won't the contents be lost?

With regard to purging: I would envision holding the connector over the port, while slightly depressing the trigger until slight flow until hissing. Sound O.K.?

Regarding 'max cool', this means NO outside air, and highest speed fan. Right?

One more: before hooking up the canister, with the system rnning and all of (your) conditions met, can I just hook up the hose unit, press the trigger, and see if I am actually low on charge (before piercing the can)? I would then remove the hose before connecting to the canister in order to purge the hose.

Thanks.

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Old 06-03-2012, 12:56 PM   #4
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I have refilled a system completely empty on my 1995 Volvo...that was 8 years ago...used to do it every summer. Yes the correct way is to purge but honestly in my experiences with the 134a top off cans the car systems are very forgiving.

I don't know about this AC Pro thing (I can't watch the youtube video, internet too slow) but it *should* have a color coded gauge on it. Also in my experience the stuff is designed at such a pressure that it won't actually slow into the system if it's completely full. I tried adding some to my wife's car (before learning the compressor was shot) and it didn't take any. The *right* way would be to recover the stuff in the system and add in exactly how much is printed on the plate under the hood.
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:20 PM   #5
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even in commercial HVAC a seasoned tech knows how to push liquid into the suction side on a recharge on adding it..on a friday night with the beers and burgers schedule for saturday afternoon.i have filled 5 story split systems off a deep vacuum...with 3-125 r-22 freons headed then together and opened the LIQUID LINE and went and had coffee. no matter what the state of the freon is once it pressurizes/equalizes it stops charging being gas and or liquid.
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:08 PM   #6
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that PURGING is a you have it .....let the freon leak out as you connect the hose to the line.the hose and guage ae part of the canister being pierced...HVAC guys in auto shops hook up a full set of guages then do the work...hooking up the acpro hose to read the guage will discharge the exsisting freon on the system.if the charge is low and yo connect the full acpro canister just the sun hitting it or in your hand is a higher pressure then in a running system...freon is very reactive to ambient temps as the temp rises so does the pressure within the cylinder.there is not that much freon charge within any vechicle LBS or more not mush....but believe it or not ther is more freon in cars then in buildings and homes combined around the world
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:12 PM   #7
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you have felt liquid freon on your fingers just think of it on a cylinder with heat compressing freon with a load..commecially is washes the oil lube right off the cylinder and bada bing
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:04 PM   #8
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Never turn the can upside down if you have trouble charging in the up rite position get a pan of hot water and place the can in it still in the up rite position.
It will increase pressure in the can and it will flow into the suction side better.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:09 PM   #9
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another item is the oil within the compressor with the only way to check it is to physcially taking the init out and pouring it out and pouring it in on ounzes required.reference www.aircondition.com this site is AUTO hvac soup to nuts on all model cars and with posters/experts like this site.if you lose the freon over the winter chances are the oil is still within the compressor being considered an "off leak".then you have a running leak with the oil droplets traveling thru the system as you cool that is a killer if you seasonaly charge up the unit.if your starting from a vacuum after a repair sucking in some oil won't hurt..ounces only.that is why it is a good habit during the fall/winter when you catch a warm sunny day run the ac while driving to keep the shaft seal lubed up...
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:24 PM   #10
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Automotive a/c systems are charged with liquid in the low side all the time. A/c automotive machines charge with liquid. I don't know a tech that hasn't topped off a system with it running. The freon is what moves the oil in the system it won't circulate without freon in it which its why the shut the compressor down when it gets low on charge.
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:49 AM   #11
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Automotive a/c systems are charged with liquid in the low side all the time. A/c automotive machines charge with liquid. I don't know a tech that hasn't topped off a system with it running. The freon is what moves the oil in the system it won't circulate without freon in it which its why the shut the compressor down when it gets low on charge.
"WHaaaaaaaaaaat?"
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:03 AM   #12
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that PURGING is a you have it .....let the freon leak out as you connect the hose to the line.the hose and guage ae part of the canister being pierced...HVAC guys in auto shops hook up a full set of guages then do the work...hooking up the acpro hose to read the guage will discharge the exsisting freon on the system.if the charge is low and yo connect the full acpro canister just the sun hitting it or in your hand is a higher pressure then in a running system...freon is very reactive to ambient temps as the temp rises so does the pressure within the cylinder.there is not that much freon charge within any vechicle LBS or more not mush....but believe it or not ther is more freon in cars then in buildings and homes combined around the world
Thinking about it a little further, according to the directions, one must release the trigger periodically during charging to check the pressure in the system. So, I envision it as a tee to the car side of the valve (trigger in canister), which will read the (car) system pressure.

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Old 06-04-2012, 10:15 AM   #13
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I'm an AC PRO? be careful...?


right on that even with guages on a system that BLUE guage has to be shut to see what the suction running pressure is...the can or any freon cylinder will always be higher then any suction in a car, or that in fact a home system when the system is on.a trick is if your car is cycling that LP control short cycling the compressor..just keep adding freon/gas only till it stays on...then do that 2000 rpms as you rpm up the suction will drop with no trigger action.

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