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Old 07-07-2013, 07:19 AM   #1
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


First... my terminology might not be perfect, but hopefully you will be able to tell what I mean.
I made a blunder and added Nu Calgon StopLeak to the high side of my AC unit (it should have been added to the low pressure side)... When I did this, the StopLeak can filled up with freon (which is how I knew it was a mistake). Before I added the StopLeak, the AC worked perfectly, but had a slow leak where the freon discharged over 2 years. After adding StopLeak, the high pressure side (the skinny line) is cool to the touch (it should be warm/hot) and the AC does cool, but not as well - feels humid in the house.

I then added a second Nu Calgon StopLeak to the low side - a New Bottle (and that seemed to work fine).. so now I hopefully don't have a leak, but the high pressure line is still cool to the touch.

Please let me know where to go from here to fix. It's an older unit, but I don't want to replace it if I can avoid.. don't want to throw money at it either. What's the smart move.

The AC still blows cold, but it feels a little damp in the house and the AC runs more than before.


Last edited by dan!mal; 07-07-2013 at 08:04 AM. Reason: info from beenthere (Thanks)
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:43 AM   #2
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


Moved to HVAC forum.

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Old 07-07-2013, 07:51 AM   #3
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


The small line is not the return to the compressor. The large line is.

Your system may now be slightly low on charge, since liquid went into the stop leak can.

Danger, if that can is still intact. it could rupture anytime now as the liquid refrigerant builds pressure. It needs to be discharged so that it doesn't rupture and sent shrapnel or liquid refrigerant at anyone.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:01 AM   #4
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


Thanks beenthere - I will edit the original post to make it clearer.

I had a tech add about a pound of r22 (thinking that it was not cooling as much because it was low on freon), but adding pound of R22 freon didn't seem to make any difference.

The tech thought that adding the StopLeak to the high pressure side would have caused air to enter the system... This didn't make sense to me, but the small line (high pressure) is cool to the touch. He said this means the compressor is not working, or there is air in the system because of adding the StopLeak to the high side.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:02 AM   #5
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


sounds like you low on Freon. by being an older unit it should be R22.
Is the large Line going in to the outdoor unit that has the black insulation
on it cold and sweaty? it should be. You need to check the pressures
with a manifold gages. you should have a company out to check system.
Make sure you tell them what you did. It helps us make a correct diagnoses.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:12 AM   #6
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


Good chance you weren't low of refrigerant yet. or at least low enough that it was causing poor cooling. If there is a liquid line filter drier in the cabinet of the unit. It may be restricting, and causing the liquid line to be cool, and your poor cooling problem.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:16 AM   #7
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


Pressures seem fine. The tech checked the pressures with a manifold unit when he added the pound of R22 (to replace what I lost when I added the StopLeak to the high side). The large line is cold and sweaty, the small line is room temp. There is no ice on the inside of the house where the line goes into the unit - which leads me to think that it's not a freon issue... but I've been wrong before (and recently).

Seems to me the only answer is to vacuum the unit and recharge - or replace which is cost prohibitive right now.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:26 AM   #8
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


After 38 years in this biz. I still can't tell if a system is charged right by pressures alone. I really doubt the tech that was out can either. He should have checked SH and SC. that info would have told him if there was another problem, and what it is.

Is the small line cooler then the outdoor temp.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:32 AM   #9
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


The small line seems to be the same as outside temp ... maybe a little warmer? but definitely not cooler. It's a cool day thou (rare for these parts in summer)
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:33 AM   #10
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


we don't usually use the temp of the small liquid line as a indictaor of whether it is working or not. that temp depends on the load on the machine/outdoor coil cleanliness etc. cold sweating large line is a better indicator but not a good one. can get fooled by a dirty indoor coil or poor airflow etc. you need a experienced tech to do the superheat and subcool checks and compare them to the manufacturers specs after he checks the 2 coils for cleanliness and proper airflow.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:35 PM   #11
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


More than likely the stop leak has restricted an orifice ,cap tubes or filter drier. The cans don't come with air in them so there's no way you put air in the system.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:04 PM   #12
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


1.) you threw away the first can of sealant, no question, and upom doing so lost a bit of refrigerant.

2.) coils clean. don't care for anyone who tries to charges a system without that specified as optimal first and foremost. if not, kiss it.

3.) return air flow/filter. no need to lie. static pressure.

4.) fixed or thermostatic?

5.) sc or sh, dependent upon #4.

evaporator coil clean and how does it's static pressure measure?

not rocket science, but close.
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:22 PM   #13
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I added Nu Calgon StopLeak to high pressure side...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty S. View Post
More than likely the stop leak has restricted an orifice ,cap tubes or filter drier. The cans don't come with air in them so there's no way you put air in the system.
This sounds like it might be the case. Is there any way (easy) to unclog the orifice? (The AC worked PERFECTLY before I "fixed" it).


Last edited by dan!mal; 07-08-2013 at 02:23 PM.
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