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Old 01-07-2009, 11:51 PM   #16
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HVAC Monitoring


Thats not good for the HP.
Doesn't take long to make the coil dirty.
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:00 AM   #17
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I should clarify, It has a 20x22 filter to trap large debris from the coil as a secondary filter as part of the airhandler. The way it is now on the return side, the largest filter that will work is a 16x20, but it was restricting the airflow so badly I had to remove it.

Once I have upsized all the duct work, I'll give the A coil a thorough cleaning to ensure optimal efficiency.
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:53 AM   #18
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I guess you need these
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_chart
now.
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:53 PM   #19
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Well, I finally got the initial monitoring setup to where it gives me all the info I want to know in a glance.

I set it up so I can view it via the internet and my BlackBerry.

It has been extremely helpful so far as I can keep track of our power usage and see which rooms loose the most heat.

My next version will be complete with charts and all kinds of goodies.
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Old 02-06-2009, 09:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewF View Post
Well, I finally got the initial monitoring setup to where it gives me all the info I want to know in a glance.

I set it up so I can view it via the internet and my BlackBerry.

It has been extremely helpful so far as I can keep track of our power usage and see which rooms loose the most heat.

My next version will be complete with charts and all kinds of goodies.
Your freezer should be 0 to 10 ℉ and your fridge at 38℉.
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Old 02-06-2009, 09:43 PM   #21
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Your freezer should be 0 to 10 ℉ and your fridge at 38℉.
It usually is.

Like right now the freezer is at 0, although it hits -3 sometimes. It depends on when I guess it is running and how often we get in it.
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Old 02-07-2009, 04:54 AM   #22
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You have a faily large spread on a couple rooms. Might want to try fan cycling to even out some room temps.
That might also cut down on the heating bill a bit, by getting that heat from those higher rooms into the rest of the house.
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Old 02-07-2009, 05:16 AM   #23
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Chart #2, 14:00, r.a.temp, 172.00 degrees? temp. probe problem I hope.
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Old 02-07-2009, 09:08 AM   #24
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You have a faily large spread on a couple rooms. Might want to try fan cycling to even out some room temps.
That might also cut down on the heating bill a bit, by getting that heat from those higher rooms into the rest of the house.
Yes. The office is not part of the main house. It is on a slab and next to the garage. It has poor insulation in the attic.

The toy room has a large single pain window. The guest room has an older sliding patio door in it.

As for the rest of the rooms, I plan on having a guy come out with an infrared camera so we can find out which areas of the house are loosing the most heat.

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Chart #2, 14:00, r.a.temp, 172.00 degrees? temp. probe problem I hope.
Yes..whenever a probe goes "wacky" it reports back 172+. (I programmed in the scripts to ignore any temperature reading over a certain point to keep that from happening.)
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Old 02-13-2009, 11:06 PM   #25
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I would love to discuss what you're using to accomplish all this. I assume its all custom coded, of course. What sort of hardware are you running to grab this data?
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:06 AM   #26
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does your unit run for twenty minutes before satisfying or before calling for a ten kdub?

that tells me either it gets extremely cold there, and your compressor is going to get canned soon.
or it means you got a poorly insulated home with drafty windows and doors?

or it means you need to adjust your heat pump settings to act more like a heat pump is designed to.

If it were me , i would set the ht pump to drop out at 34 degrees and the first bank to come on then, which is normal.

and then if it doesn't satisfy the stat by 5-8 minutes, i would then have the added 5 kw kick on.

you can run a long run time of 5 kw, and double its run time,, and pay the same as it would to stage on the added 5kw of heat with a shorter run time.

if the off cycle is short, then I would look towards weather proofing my home better.... but most heat pumps are designed for mild winters and warmer climates.

If i was facing colder temps outside for a heat pump,,, i would add a fan cycler or a head pressure control at the condenser. and maintain it as if it were like a mild summer day.
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:30 AM   #27
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I would love to discuss what you're using to accomplish all this. I assume its all custom coded, of course. What sort of hardware are you running to grab this data?
I am using DS18B20 sensor probes made by Maxim-Inc. I bought mine from Poland on ebay as they are cheaper than buying them domestically. I soldered up my own controller for about $4 instead of buying one for $30.

Google for 1-wire to get more information on the technology. Hobby-boards is a good location for non technical people to purchase the adapter to your PC and some simple probes.

I use a program called digitemp on a linux box and some custom scripts which parse the data and insert it into a mysql database. I then wrote some custom php code to retrieve and run calculations against the results. One could do it on a windows machine with a little work.

Total cost for what I did, was around $60, plus time. (not counting the old pc I have linux on.)


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does your unit run for twenty minutes before satisfying or before calling for a ten kdub?
It depends on the outdoor temperature. the 10 KW only comes on when the unit goes into defrost mode, or after 35-45 minutes....I've been toying with this setting on the Venstar T1900 thermostat I have to find the optimum setting. Since I get about a 2 COP out of the HP around 15, its cheaper to run than the resistant heat strip alone. The last two electric bills have been over $400.

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If it were me , i would set the ht pump to drop out at 34 degrees and the first bank to come on then, which is normal.
The COP of my HP doesnt take a drop until around 15. So I have the outdoor tstate set to have it shutoff around 15 and turn on 10kw instead.

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and then if it doesn't satisfy the stat by 5-8 minutes, i would then have the added 5 kw kick on.
you can run a long run time of 5 kw, and double its run time,, and pay the same as it would to stage on the added 5kw of heat with a shorter run time.
After the first 45 minutes of HP run time, the first 10kw comes on, 10 minutes later the 2nd 10kw comes on.
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If i was facing colder temps outside for a heat pump,,, i would add a fan cycler or a head pressure control at the condenser. and maintain it as if it were like a mild summer day.
I am not familiar with a fan cycler, if the outdoor fan shuts off for a period of time, isnt the line temp going to drop?
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Last edited by AndrewF; 02-14-2009 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 02-14-2009, 10:14 AM   #28
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or it means you need to adjust your heat pump settings to act more like a heat pump is designed to.

If it were me , i would set the ht pump to drop out at 34 degrees and the first bank to come on then, which is normal.
Thats a great way to get a big heating bill. For no valid reason.
Other then to make sure the electric company is making plenty of money from you.
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