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Old 08-13-2012, 06:00 PM   #1
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Hello forum. I had my heat pump replaced recently and as the photos below show, the drain pipe blocks access to the filter door. (cheap install he re-used a lot of the PVC instead of doing the job right).

I'm pretty handy and can fix this myself but have a question - is the "u" shaped piece necessary? At first I thought it was similar to why one is needed on a sink drain, but the water drains into a pipe that has its own "u," has water in it, and there is no odor. I measured it out and can more or less do 2 straight runs into the drain.

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-13-2012, 06:38 PM   #2
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p trap is needed so the unit doesnt draw environmental air into the coil...

just clean it up and do an air gap into the plumbing p trap.

what an idiot (your installer)

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Old 08-13-2012, 06:49 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick response. Follow up- how do I put an air gap into the p trap as you suggest?

Re: The installer. This is probably the least damaging thing he did. Wouldn't know where to begin.

Thanks again

Jeff
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Old 08-13-2012, 07:21 PM   #4
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from the picture it looks like he did that part correctly, it seems as if the white pvc is just floating in the larger ABS (or is that a wrapped PVC?)...

read about HVAC air gaps (or dehumidifier drain air gaps, or washing machine air gaps) you will find a wealth of information.

in general you want your regular plumbing trap to block the sewer gas and have a stand pipe of X length....then the draining appliance has its drain either inserted into that pipe (well above the trap water line) or above that standpipe (so you can literally see the drips) --- one is an air gap, one an air break.

this prevents sewage from backing up into the appliance in the event of a backup.

the p trap near the unit is a completely different thing, it is because the pre-fan (coil) side of the unit is under tremendous negative pressure, so of course the unit is sealed tight, except you cant seal the drain (or it wouldn't drain), so instead you just put a column of water in that trap and the unit cant make enough negative pressure to suck it back in so you end up with an air seal (other wise you would suck unfiltered air through the drain line).
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:16 PM   #5
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Thanks for the advice. $20 and 30 minutes was all it took took to fix this - the right way. Thanks again.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:09 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfpac2056 View Post
Thanks for the advice. $20 and 30 minutes was all it took took to fix this - the right way. Thanks again.

Could you provide a picture of your fix? I'm curious.
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:49 AM   #7
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Are you drawing return air from the water heater closet????
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:44 PM   #8
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Are you drawing return air from the water heater closet????
its clearly electric
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Old 08-18-2012, 04:05 PM   #9
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Yeow! and you paid him?
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Old 08-18-2012, 05:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Are you drawing return air from the water heater closet????

Very common set up in condos here. No problem with doing it since the water heaters are electric.

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