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Old 01-17-2009, 07:23 PM   #31
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HVAC - Airflow Issue


I am making progress. I had to reroute the water supply today as they had it going next to the old supply trunk and then across the top of it. The water line was wedged between the floor trusses and the duct. I shut the water off at the street and replaced about 25' of copper and installed a new ball valve shutoff.

I also have about 1/3 of the supply trunk and about 8 feeder lines done.

Next up is to lift up the AH and put in the new return box for it to sit on, drop the AH down on it and then continue the supply duct above the AH and then finish up with the return duct.

I have a question. When I make the filter rack in the *return* drop down, should I set two filters up in an A setup to maximize the SQ in of filter area?

For example, instead lf a single 20x25 filter laying flat in the drop down, what if I put two 20x25 or 16x20 filters in an upside down V, any reason not to do this?

My drop down from the return trunk is 20" x 25" x 75", so I have plenty of room to do what I want.

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Last edited by AndrewF; 05-30-2009 at 11:59 AM. Reason: corrected terminology
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Old 01-18-2009, 05:04 AM   #32
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HVAC - Airflow Issue


I'm hoping you mean return drop.
You don't filter the supply.

V shaped filter rack can actually cause more restriction then using a single.

If you want good filtration, and low pressure drop across the filter. Use a 4 or 5" media filter.

Yes, replacement media cost more then those 1" filters do. But, they last 6 to 9 months. And allow better air flow.

Only use OEM replacement media.
The third party media is not made the same, and has a higher restriction/pressure drop when new, compared to OEM media.

They are well worth the money.

Look up Key1cc. he did test on different air filters, for pressure drop.
He has either a 4 or 5". But, I believe he tested 1" filters also.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:01 AM   #33
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HVAC - Airflow Issue


I fixed my post. yes, I meant return drop down. I'll look up the info you said.

I am not against spending more on a good filter. I refuse to buy the cheap filters now as they simply don't work well and let the A coil build up with dust and clog.

So using a deep media is better than my idea of a V media shape then. I figured since the A coil is V shaped in my unit and the fan sucts the air through it, using filtration media in a V would work too.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:21 PM   #34
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HVAC - Airflow Issue


I have completed all of the supply upgrade. Wow! What a chore, definately not something I would want to do again.

We do notice an increase in airflow to most of the rooms. Previously one had to have their hand about 6" from a register to "feel" the heat or airflow. Now you can be about 18" away.

We havent installed all of the return yet. Hope to finish that tomorrow. Right now we have filters in front of the box the air handler sits on in the basement....which means it is sucking cooler (65 degree) air from the basement and heating it up to about 82 for the rest of the house.

I think that "helped" contribute to the extended run-time lastnight...along with the 16 degree temperature outside.
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Old 01-25-2009, 07:19 PM   #35
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Yea, using the baement for a return air cavity, does increase teh load on it.
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:11 PM   #36
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HVAC - Airflow Issue


Here are a few photos, including the cheap $30 nibblers I bought to cut all the holes for the take-offs.

We noticed a considerable drop in air noise with the extra space between the AH and the supply trunk. Instead of it being only 8" before, there is now approximately 15".

With the larger box the AH sits on, the access panel is not sucked shut like it used to be, an indication the system was starving for return air.
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:51 PM   #37
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HVAC - Airflow Issue


It is done! WHEW!

Ok, well maybe I am still figuring out a better way to do the filtering as the 20x25x1 filter restricts the airflow too much. I am toying with a 20x25x4" filter or some other filter rack setup to allow the most CFM through without affecting the velocity of the air.

I am open to suggestions on a solution for that.

As for the install, how did I do?

Note: The masking tape is temporary until I am sure I don't need in the bottom box anymore. I didn't want to waste any of the seal tape.
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Old 01-29-2009, 11:11 PM   #38
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DUDE, YOU GOT A BULL HEAD PLENUM AND A DEAD END REDUCER IN THE TRUNK.

YOU'RE GONNA HAVE MORE TURBULENCE THAN HURRICANE KATRINA.

Wood blocks are not too attractive...there are vibration absorber blocks made for that.

Way too much alum tape...use silicone to seal open areas.
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:02 AM   #39
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Should put vanes in the return drop at the plenum, and in the top connection.
Your currrent configuration has about a 260' total equivalent length.
The vanes will reduce that to less then 100'.
Also, the supply should have a baffle/deflector to help guide the air instead of just adeadhead.

The deadhead reducers are very turbulant. A normal 15 or less transition reducer only adds about 5' of equivalent length. A deadhead adds about 35'.
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Old 01-30-2009, 07:27 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvaclover View Post
DUDE, YOU GOT A BULL HEAD PLENUM AND A DEAD END REDUCER IN THE TRUNK.

YOU'RE GONNA HAVE MORE TURBULENCE THAN HURRICANE KATRINA.

Wood blocks are not too attractive...there are vibration absorber blocks made for that.

Way too much alum tape...use silicone to seal open areas.

That 2x4 is just laying there, not supporting anything. The box is sitting on patio stones.

The alum tape is covering up some of my ugly sealed areas I went through 4-5 tubes of silicone based caulk on the whole setup.
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Old 01-30-2009, 07:30 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
Should put vanes in the ret, urn drop at the plenum, and in the top connection.
Your currrent configuration has about a 260' total equivalent length.
The vanes will reduce that to less then 100'.
Also, the supply should have a baffle/deflector to help guide the air instead of just adeadhead.

The deadhead reducers are very turbulant. A normal 15 or less transition reducer only adds about 5' of equivalent length. A deadhead adds about 35'.
When you say vanes, you mean long narrow strips of metal? Hmmh.....I can still get into the drop box to make any modifications.

The deadhead reducers...yeah I thought about fashioning up a better transition, I just had so much time in it that I needed to get it operational. These little tweaks I can still do as you both recommend.
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Old 01-30-2009, 01:36 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewF View Post
That 2x4 is just laying there, not supporting anything. The box is sitting on patio stones.

The alum tape is covering up some of my ugly sealed areas I went through 4-5 tubes of silicone based caulk on the whole setup.

It'll be primo once you get those bull head changed out.

Silver tape is a sure bust by an inspector around here, the think you are hiding big gaps. Stuff is really only supposed to be used on duct board, but it has it's uses in limited amounts.

Other wise, not bad for a Greek Boy.

I wish i could tell you how to set the cfm, but HPs are different than ac in that regard. Don't know that much about them.
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Old 01-30-2009, 02:43 PM   #43
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http://www.ductmate.com/products/tur...andprorail.asp
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Old 01-30-2009, 02:51 PM   #44
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[quote=hvaclover;221966]It'll be primo once you get those bull head changed out.

Silver tape is a sure bust by an inspector around here, the think you are hiding big gaps. quote]

For some reason the local supply house didnt sell the reducers for 10" duct. They did have them for 8" and that is what they sold me at first.

So to get the system running (and remove the pillows i had stuffed in there) I just put a flat piece of metal over it.

I didnt know inspectors dont like the silver tape...I thought it was common practive to use it to ensure a tight seal. Any place I didnt have a great seal, I used caulk to seal it up first.


Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
So are you suggesting I use that on the supply duct as well? How do I make sure I get the proper dispersion each direction?

Does it really make that big of a difference in the return?
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Old 01-30-2009, 03:34 PM   #45
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Makes a real BIG difference in the return.

I usualy use a$$ checks in the supply if I have to dead head like that.

Its basically a simple v.

You have to position it, for the air flow you need in each duct.

So you need to knw which side needs more air.

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