Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > HVAC

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-16-2007, 05:02 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10
Question

How To Get An Answer On This Forum???


Hey All... I posted a question a couple of days ago about a TRANE XE80 not firing the burners, (wmrra82 post). I have since, had the TRANE technician out and found the ignitor to be defective...YIKES...it was almost as much to replace the ignitor as it was the ICP board 3 years ago, ($146.00 for the ignitor). He was getting ready to leave and he heard the furnace shut off and then come back on again. The thermostat was set to 72 and the reading was only up to 66 in the house. He said that it wasn't supposed to be cutting off like that and that the ICP board may be defective also, which in turn, cause the short life of the ignitor if it keeps trying to cycle over and over again. Anyway...he said he could replace the board but that they are cheaper to purchase and install myself. The board I had replaced 3 years ago was the 50A65-475-05 (TRANE P/N: CNT 03076) The only problem with that is tha fact that I have been to numberous sites now and have read that the best upgrade to the TRANE XE80 ICP is the WHITE-ROGERS 50A65-843 board. The technician, on the other hand, said that I should upgrade it with the 50A65-476 board (TRANE P/N: CNT 03798). Any thoughts on which way I should go??? I showed him the data sheet on the -843 board and how it says it's supposed to replace ALL the 50A65-XXX boards, but he still said to buy a -476 board. Any help would be greatly appreciated...Thanx, JD
wmrra82@comcast.net

wmrra82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2007, 04:39 PM   #2
General Contractor
 
joasis's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 876
Rewards Points: 500
Default

How To Get An Answer On This Forum???


The hvac techs drift in and out...for my money, stick with what you know will work.

__________________
Ladwig Construction
Hennessey, Oklahoma
405 853 1563



joasis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2007, 08:49 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 190
Rewards Points: 150
Default

How To Get An Answer On This Forum???


If WR board specs say it'll work and 'numerous other forums' concur that it works better, sure. But unless someone here is a tech or DIYer who have done this specific repair, you are unlikely to get an answer.
That said, 'bad board' is the usual song and dance for 'bad techs'. They'll saddle you with an expensive part which might or might not need replacement. But there are many other potential causes. Of course, if new board does not fix the issue and other solutions need to be found, they can always say that 'board needed replacement' anyway. But tell you this: I've been assembling and troubleshooting PCs since 1992, and a PC motherboard is hands down a beast several orders of magnitude more complex than anything that goes into your furnace. And I think I've seen a motherboard failure only once. Otherwise, all boards I've scrapped was due to them being obsolete, not broken. One PC I assembled back in 1997 is still fully functional.
1. Faulty flame sensor. If flame detection signal is interrupted, gas valve is closed, and furnace attempts to refire.
2. A faulty soft limit - if any of the soft limits (like high limit temp sensor) opens, furnace will cut out and refire when limit closes again.
3. A clogged gas valve/dirty burner.
Yes, it could be board, but in that case, you really should look at causes for board failure. Boards should NOT go bad every three years. Is there a break in condensation lines causing condensation to drip on the board? Did board compartment become a dust bunny habitat? And dust bunnies in a furnace tend to be loaded with static. Dirty power? Might consider adding a surge protector.
scorrpio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2007, 09:50 AM   #4
I have gas!
 
Clutchcargo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,781
Rewards Points: 1,014
Default

How To Get An Answer On This Forum???


Quote:
Originally Posted by scorrpio View Post
If WR board specs say it'll work and 'numerous other forums' concur that it works better, sure. But unless someone here is a tech or DIYer who have done this specific repair, you are unlikely to get an answer.
That said, 'bad board' is the usual song and dance for 'bad techs'. They'll saddle you with an expensive part which might or might not need replacement. But there are many other potential causes. Of course, if new board does not fix the issue and other solutions need to be found, they can always say that 'board needed replacement' anyway. But tell you this: I've been assembling and troubleshooting PCs since 1992, and a PC motherboard is hands down a beast several orders of magnitude more complex than anything that goes into your furnace. And I think I've seen a motherboard failure only once. Otherwise, all boards I've scrapped was due to them being obsolete, not broken. One PC I assembled back in 1997 is still fully functional.
I was steered away by my heating contractor from installing a direct vent boiler. His point was that there are a lot more electronics involved with high efficiency boilers and all it will take is one unscheduled tech visit to throw any money not spent on fuel out the window. My boiler only has controls necessary for zoning and that's it.
There are many more stresses put on a board in a piece of machinery than in a PC. You've got heat and vibration. In my former career, I ran a large photo mural enlarger. It's a very large machine on a track whose only job was to project precisely controled light through a negative. There were certain replacable boards that would commonly fail. We kept these in stock so that production wasn't hampered waiting for FedEx to deliver a new board.
On your other point, I agree if a less competetant tech makes a bad decision and replaces a perfectly good board, they are going to charge the customer for the parts and labor. It's just like bringing your car in for repair where they have no idea what's wrong, so they just start replacing parts at the owners expense.
__________________
I tear things down and build them up.
Clutchcargo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2007, 10:17 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 190
Rewards Points: 150
Default

How To Get An Answer On This Forum???


I am really not sure what was with that photo enlarger, but it also sounds like bad design. If PC analogy is no good, consider automotive computers - they operate in a whole lot more adverse conditions, and I frakly don't recall anyone I know ever having a computer failure in their car. Besides, if a furnace vibrates/heats its electronics enough to have them fail, that's a badly designed furnace. My WM Ultra boiler (miscroprocessor controlled) does not vibrate. I put my hand to circuitry housing when boiler is going at full clip - I sense less vibration than in my PC and it is barely warm. Oh yeah, and it has 5 years warranty. (And once that is out, I'll put it under homeowner protection policy) Installers don't like those units cause their install is more complex, easy to screw up, (which means they have to come and fix it free) but unit failures (fixing which is NOT free) are rather rare, and generally require a manufacturer tech, not generic HVAC.
scorrpio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2007, 11:10 PM   #6
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10
Default

How To Get An Answer On This Forum???


Thanks All, for all the insightful posts. I have to agree with you in your comparison of the car mechanic...take it in...then start replacing parts until the problem goes away...(lived through that too). Ordered the -843 board and it should be here by Saturday... I took the existing board out and compared it with the failed board of three years ago and noted the same "heat frustration" in the center of the board around the resistor packs. I checked the bottom of the board for any possible cold solder joints but found none. Reinstalled the board and reconnected everything, turned it on, and it fired right up. Let it cook up to 75 degrees then shut the thermostat down to 60 in case it failed in the middle of the night and started blowing cold air again. Woke up this morning, bumped the thermostat up to 68 and it fired right up. I wish I had more time to troublershoot it further, but the voltages that I am reading are pretty close to spec and I just can't afford to be without heat for any long period of time...(5 kids in the house and the youngest in 6 months old). I might not need the new -843 board, but it will at least, give me piece of mind. Thanks again everyone for your input. I'll post and let you know how the new install goes after Saturday...
JD

wmrra82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum, not to DIY projects! Handyman50 Introductions 2 09-30-2007 01:52 PM
New to forum vomtickie Introductions 3 07-02-2007 06:36 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.