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Old 10-08-2012, 06:33 PM   #1
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Is this how a gas furance works?


I just moved into new house that has natural gas furance. It is a Carrier 58WAV with a Honeywell TH5220D thermostat. The furance was installed in 2010 and seems to work great. We had a HVAC company come out and do a tune up service just to ensure it was ready for the winter. Other houses that we have lived in have had heat pumps, so I was use to having the system run a long time at each interval.

My question is the natural gas furance seems to run at short intervals but often. Last night it came on and ran for 10 minutes off 6 minutes then back on for 10 minutes. The furance does not have a free standing pilot so I know it only calls for gas when on. I downloaded the installation instuctions for the thermostat to see if I could change the setpoint to 2-3 degrees but I don't see where that is possiabe. Currently the setpoint is 1 degree, I guess by default.

Does this seem like the normal runtime for a natural gas furance?

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Old 10-08-2012, 07:00 PM   #2
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Is this how a gas furance works?


keep in mind the supply fan is the last item ON heat calls,and the last item OFF when the stat satisfies

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Old 10-08-2012, 07:34 PM   #3
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Yes that's the way they work when it's mild out. Once the bitter cold comes it should run much longer on cycles.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:40 PM   #4
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Is this how a gas furance works?


How old is the house, and where is the thermostat located in the house. That thermostat does not give you much in the way of tweaking it for differential & Swing. Also, need the complete model # of your unit, so that others know exactly how it was sized for the house. Could be that it is over sized, or the house leaks so much air, that the furnace can not keep up, while your money flies out the cracks, doors, windows, attic, etc.

Location where you are also helps.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:19 PM   #5
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Check the CPH setting of your thermostat. Sounds like its set to 4. If so et it to 3 and see how you like it. Give it a couple days to adjust to he new setting.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:52 PM   #6
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Is this how a gas furance works?


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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
How old is the house, and where is the thermostat located in the house. That thermostat does not give you much in the way of tweaking it for differential & Swing. Also, need the complete model # of your unit, so that others know exactly how it was sized for the house. Could be that it is over sized, or the house leaks so much air, that the furnace can not keep up, while your money flies out the cracks, doors, windows, attic, etc.

Location where you are also helps.
House was built in 1973. Thermostat is located in the upstairs hallway mounted to inside wall. The complete model #58WAV111-13112. When our home inspector did his report he stated the AC was undersized for the house. The AC is 2 ton and conditioned floor space is 2700 sq ft. The doors and windows are tight since most have been replaced. I guess I'm use to hearing a heat pump run along time, so hearing short heating cycles prompted me to ask.

I'm located in Virginia so the winters are mild and last about 5 months.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:52 PM   #7
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Is this how a gas furance works?


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Check the CPH setting of your thermostat. Sounds like its set to 4. If so et it to 3 and see how you like it. Give it a couple days to adjust to he new setting.

Thanks for recommendation. I will check out the install instuctions and give it a try.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:55 PM   #8
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Your HI is an idiot. Majority do not know how to tie their shoelaces, or their head from their arse. Unless the HI did a Manual J & Manual D, he was just being an idiot to state that a 2 ton was undersized for that structure. Every building is different, and what may work for one for hvac equipment, many not for another that is the exact same size & built the same year.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:56 PM   #9
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Also, it will not take a couple of days to notice if the CPH change worked, it will only take a couple of hours to notice if changing it worked or not.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:00 PM   #10
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Is this how a gas furance works?


That unit is a 110,000 BTUh, and should be set at 1200 cfm. With it being a 80% efficient unit, and not having a variable speed motor, you are throwing money out the window. As for windows & doors being tight, they may close tight, but without taking window & door trims off, there is no way to know if they insulated around to seal from drafts.

Also, how much insulation is there up in the attic space.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:04 PM   #11
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Your HI is an idiot. Majority do not know how to tie their shoelaces, or their head from their arse. Unless the HI did a Manual J & Manual D, he was just being an idiot to state that a 2 ton was undersized for that structure. Every building is different, and what may work for one for hvac equipment, many not for another that is the exact same size & built the same year.
Yeah, I thought that was an odd statement. HVAC was done by one of the top companys in the area. Doubt they would sell equipment not rated for house/conditions. I kept most air ducts in basement closed due to basement being partial under ground, and was comfortable temp in summer. Need to put a dehumidifer down here next summer though.

The house has a few problems that the HI found, but I feel in love with it as soon and my wife and I walked in. Reminded me of the house I grew up in as a child.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:08 PM   #12
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Open back up the vents into the basement. That will help with keeping it the same temp pretty much as the rest of the house. Plus you do not need to run a demudifier down there, unless the a/c cannot keep up with keeping it dry down there. I keep my humidity level in my house anywhere from 45 to 60%, depending on what the season is, it stays always around the same RH.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:12 PM   #13
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
That unit is a 110,000 BTUh, and should be set at 1200 cfm. With it being a 80% efficient unit, and not having a variable speed motor, you are throwing money out the window. As for windows & doors being tight, they may close tight, but without taking window & door trims off, there is no way to know if they insulated around to seal from drafts.

Also, how much insulation is there up in the attic space.
The attic has blown installation and it is several inches thick. The basement has R19 between the floor joist. I put a piece of R19 over the plywood going into the attic skuttle. I could take off the trim around the doors and window then hold a candle to see if it is leaking. I have already used low expansion foam around plumbing pipes/ natural gas pipes going outside.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:14 PM   #14
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Open back up the vents into the basement. That will help with keeping it the same temp pretty much as the rest of the house. Plus you do not need to run a demudifier down there, unless the a/c cannot keep up with keeping it dry down there. I keep my humidity level in my house anywhere from 45 to 60%, depending on what the season is, it stays always around the same RH.
Awesome, will do. I closed the vents since it felt so cold in the basement. I will get diverters and use on the vents and leave open.

Thanks for all the help. All information very appreciated.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:15 PM   #15
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Is this how a gas furance works?


Seal around the attic scuttle with Silicone type caulk, and the candle trick does not always work, so use something like DAP foam, to seal around the windows for any gaps. Same around outlet & switch boxes on the outside wall perimeters. As for the basement, unless the insulation is down there for sound abatement, there really is no need for them, if it is a conditioned space, not open to the elements or dirt cellar.

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