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-   -   How to fix a baseboard heater to drywall with no studs?! (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/how-fix-baseboard-heater-drywall-no-studs-165029/)

gloriousglenn 11-28-2012 08:16 PM

How to fix a baseboard heater to drywall with no studs?!
 
Hi all,

We think the guy who built our place was 'cheap' and saved on studs where he could! There are no set distances between a lot of studs, and there are some pretty big gaps without studs all over the place!

I am trying to fix a baseboard heater to a wall, but there are no studs in the area that I can use. So, what can I do to try and secure the heater to the wall with just 1/2" drywall to attach it too? Everything I have used so far (a few screw variants, including some drywall screws that I used when I put up my ceiling!) have just pulled straight out.

Cheers
Glenn

jbfan 11-28-2012 09:22 PM

Toggle bolts.

funfool 11-28-2012 09:28 PM

1 Attachment(s)
what I would use. I doubt your contractor jipped out on studs.
Is one of the cheapest parts of building, if they are not correctly spaced it throws the whole process out of whack and actually cost more for insulation and drywall.
What is common though, if it is a plumbing wall and maybe a bathroom or kitchen on other side of wall...
Often studs are moved or not set on 16" or 24" centers to accommodate the needed plumbing.

Either way, these anchors should help. a simple screw in drywall will never work.

gloriousglenn 11-28-2012 09:44 PM

Thanks guys. Now you say it, I've seen those screws on the left before. Off to Rona I go...Well, tomorrow...They won't let me in at 11:15pm!!

COLDIRON 11-29-2012 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbfan (Post 1062692)
Toggle bolts.

I agree X2. Stronger than the bolts in post 3.

Missouri Bound 11-29-2012 09:58 PM

Toggle bolts are assuredly stronger...but it's a baseboard heater which is basically a lightweight metal shell. The screw-in anchors in post #3 are more than adequate for such a light weight application. The OP is NOT hanging a cast iron sink.:whistling2:

COLDIRON 11-30-2012 07:36 AM

@ Missouri, Yes the base board is light but remember it has either hot water pipes or electric lines feeding it and over the years I have seen.
Kids standing on them, furniture banging into them, vacuum cleaners hitting them, people hitting them , things dropped on them etc, etc.
Remember live electric lines and/or real hot water feeding them so use toggle bolts.

@ Glorious Remember to allow space under the baseboard for flooring, carpeting or what ever the finished floor is.

gloriousglenn 11-30-2012 08:19 AM

That's a fair point COLDIRON. I catch my 4yr old standing on the one in her bedroom all of the time! Luckily that one is attached to studs!!!

I have the hardwood down in the room already and I have also spaced another gap between the heater and the floor.

Thanks for your input guys. It's very much appreciated.

AllanJ 11-30-2012 08:32 AM

For 2x6 studs, 24 inch spacing is permitted.

Why not find the studs and fasten the baseboard unit to them. (Best if each fastening location has a screw are near the upper edge of the baseboard back plate.)

A baseboard heater requires an essentially continuous air gap at its bottom edge.

yuri 11-30-2012 10:22 AM

I agree, you can buy cheap electronic stud finders at HDepot and just use a very thin finishing nail to poke around when you get close. Plus it will be hidden behind the heater when installed. Those large screw anchors are wonderful and they make them in white plastic also. Need a large philips screwdriver to install them. Put 3-4 of them in and the kids can jump all day on it. Toggle bolts are a pain in the arze to use but I like them for cinderblocks or other heavy duty jobs.

Hopefully my 4 yr old nephew will stay away from that nice fat tempting 3" exhaust pipe sticking out the wall of his house from the new furnace I just installed. Golf balls and Hot Wheels can do a nasty job to a high efficiency furnace.:laughing:


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