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Old 11-05-2011, 10:24 AM   #1
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


I have an Enerjet BG-4 and I want to check and adjust the air pressure in it. I check a couple and it had pressure and no water came out, but how do you set the pressure if it's connected to the system. Do you have to drain or drop the pressure to 0 in the sysytem and then set to the pressure regulator valve pressure setting 12# ?

The reason is that the cap on the air escape/breather was closed and the pipes built up air. I have refilled the system, I co not hear any air heats nice but the pressure seems to be going to high and the relief valve keeps doing it's job because whan its heating the pressure goes above 20# and when it's cold the pressure drops to below the 12# setting.

Any thought's..

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Old 11-05-2011, 10:38 AM   #2
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


Tank needs to be removed from the system and then the air pressure checked and added to if needed.

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Old 11-05-2011, 11:22 AM   #3
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


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Tank needs to be removed from the system and then the air pressure checked and added to if needed.
That's what I thought. Would low pressure in the tank be the reason for the high system pressure when hot (175 - 180)?
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Old 11-05-2011, 02:06 PM   #4
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


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That's what I thought. Would low pressure in the tank be the reason for the high system pressure when hot (175 - 180)?
Yes, lack of air, means lack of space for expansion.
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:21 PM   #5
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


might want to drop that boiler temp down to 160F don't need 180F to make 70F on a stat if its hot water baseboard should be 12PSI cold then 20psi at stat satify and limit temp control NOTE when the main gas goes off but the circ pump continues that is your boiler tem check the temp guage and compare it to the control setting
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:18 AM   #6
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might want to drop that boiler temp down to 160F don't need 180F to make 70F on a stat if its hot water baseboard should be 12PSI cold then 20psi at stat satify and limit temp control NOTE when the main gas goes off but the circ pump continues that is your boiler tem check the temp guage and compare it to the control setting
Where do I find the boiler temp adjustment? Is it on the main control board or a separate and adjustable thermal sensor?
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:36 AM   #7
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


if its a boiler for hot water baseboard with a circ pump later models should have that pop down panel in front so you see it right above the burner section
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:43 AM   #8
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


I can answer my own question, I just found this Honeywell site with the spec sheet for the control L8148A,E,J
http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1287..._PROD_FILE.pdf


Now I see on the left side the high limit dial. I am not at the site were the boiler is located that's why I am asking these types of questions.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:11 AM   #9
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with the sta running the heat and the circ pump on...eye ball the thermometer on the boiler and as you rotate the dial above and below that reading you see the main gas go off but the circ pump will stay on thats becuase the stat is calling for heat but your simulating the boiler making that dial setting... that woud be the temp limit you might have a hi limit also or something to add to the dialyour adjusting to safty out the boiler if the water limit fails...
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Old 11-06-2011, 12:11 PM   #10
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


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Originally Posted by biggles View Post
with the sta running the heat and the circ pump on...eye ball the thermometer on the boiler and as you rotate the dial above and below that reading you see the main gas go off but the circ pump will stay on thats becuase the stat is calling for heat but your simulating the boiler making that dial setting... that woud be the temp limit you might have a hi limit also or something to add to the dialyour adjusting to safty out the boiler if the water limit fails...
????

Spacing, Caps where they should be, and correct spelling would be a great help……
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:49 PM   #11
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


Well I am still puzzled with my situation.

Saturday I checked the boiler and found the small bucket under the RV was full. I returned sunday and although I could not remove the expansion tank or lower the pressure in the system, I checked the pressure and it was 17# the heat had been on so I added 4# to bring it to 21#. There was also only about a cup of water in the bucket. Today I was going to replace the relief valve only because it was not seating well but I found there was no water in the bucket and the pressure saw about 20 -21#

I decided for now not to change the Relief valve but from what I have been reading lower the expansion tank to 14# since it was warm.

I decided to run the boiler. Now I did not have access to the apartment so I just connected a spare thermostat.

The control unit is a honewell L8148E with a range of 180 - 240 degrees. I have the setting to the lowest of 180. The boiler started up but did not shut off until 195 degrees at 20 -21 lbs. To my surprise the temp continued to rise with the burner off until 210 degrees and the pressure at 31 but no release at the RV and then it all backed off.

There is ticking noises coming from the boiler when lite and it was suggested that I still have air in my baseboard system. Which is allowing the water to boil and continue to rise in temperature. Is this a true scenario?

I thought I purged all the air from the system I could not hear any gurgling the return pipe is very warm.

The only valve I know of is on the bottom of the boiler not up on copper. Am I missing one or was a drain not installed and I never knew it??

I did not look for a purge valve next to an exchange is that my mistake?
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:12 PM   #12
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How to check or adjust a connected expansion tank


When a bladder tank is not connected to a system, and you add air to it, it fills the entire space in the tank. When its connected to a system and you add air to it, you only add air to a small area of it. tanks needs to be remove and pressurized to 12 PSIG.

Could also have a bad aquastat.
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:17 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the input. I was able to set the expansion tank to 12#, replaced the old RV because of a slow drip and I found the upper drain so I was able to isolate the system and purge all the air out.

The aquastat still goes to 190 when set to 180 but as soon as the burner shuts down the temp stops rising. The pressure never went higher the 21 - 22 psi. I know the aquistat is not 100% but not going to change it yet.

I have the old Watts Enhanced Air Separator, 1 1/4 In NPT
Model: mpn11/4 AS-M1 T, a sales guy said I should replace it with a Watts AS-ME 100 so I would not have any head aches in the future. I have only touched the boiler once, where I tighten the cap on the breather, which I suspect caused this original problem. DUH

What are your thought if it not broke leave it alone or upgrade with a new micro bubbler and new expansion tank. Again the system is 10 -12 years old.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:37 PM   #14
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I prefer the Spiro vent, myself. But as long as you don't close the vent cap the scoop you have now is ok.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:45 PM   #15
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I prefer the Spiro vent, myself. But as long as you don't close the vent cap the scoop you have now is ok.

I have learned that lesson.

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