Honeywell TrueSteam Humidifier Opinions/Experience

hvactech126 · 11-01-2011, 09:04 PM

I would recommend a flow thru design humidifier either bypass or powered.

**beenthere** · 11-01-2011, 09:04 PM

EWC Autoflow, S2000.

gfrancke · 11-06-2011, 10:02 PM

My unit is on its 3rd season. It worked Ok but kinda a PIA and about an extra $100 a month on the electric bill. Went to turn it on for the season after a good cleaning and am getting 6 flashes on the red light ( I think it ended last season with that code and I just shut it off). The water level sensor seems fine and the outflow is fine. Is there any way to test the solenoid valves? I seem to think I had trouble with them before as I found I had 2 more in a box which I can't remember if they worked or not. It won't fill or drain. Are they AC or DC, what voltage?

reeferman · 11-11-2011, 05:26 PM

I have 2 true steams installed with a enviro zone panel and iaq thermostats I am having a hard time controlling them today they would no shutt off I have just the 2 hum terminals wired from zone valve to each humidifier is there a way I can wire this to work ? Also when I unpluged one the other stoped humidifing

**beenthere** · 11-11-2011, 07:21 PM

What terminal are you using on the zones dampers?

reeferman · 11-11-2011, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere

What terminal are you using on the zones dampers?

Not sure what you mean I have 2 zones I am coming off the 2 hum terminals on zone panel and going to each humidifier. 2 hum terminals

**beenthere** · 11-11-2011, 07:47 PM

Each truesteam has its own transformer. By connecting both to the same terminals of the zone panel, you probably burnt out one of them. need to add isolation relays.

MooseMan · 12-23-2011, 08:49 AM

Looks to be a fair amount of humidification experience here so let me throw out this question-- I'm trying to get my house to 40% and it's been a few weeks - not quite there. Here's the background:

We live in Colorado (ie very dry) and two years ago installed a Truesteam 12gal on a Vision Pro IAQ w/ the outdoor temp sensor. It took a full week to get the house to 30% humidity and it maintained it nicely through the winter. I did not go higher because of window condensation - even with frost control on. Last year we replaced our aluminum framed windows with Pellas - condensation no longer a problem.

A few weeks ago a technician was here servicing the furnace. He suggested we increase the temp from 66 to about 70 (wouldn't cost that much more) and more importantly try and get the house to 40% (he said that is an optimal humidity level, which is consistent with much of what I have read) - to swell the house and tighten it up + added comfort. So that's what I did.

Knowing the house has probably never been at 40% I figured it would take a week or so - and it took that long to get to 35 / 36%. Now I'm at 2 weeks of continuous running on the Trusteam and am waking up to about 37/38%. It'll drop to 36% and increase to 38% at different points in the day. (night temp is 65, day temp is 70). I turned off the frost control while we work up the humidity. So it seems like my gains are planing off, though there might still be some forward movement.

About the house - House built in 1976. Standard wall insulation. New windows. Nicely insulated attic (about 2' of attic cat). Canister lights also insulated/sealed. 2400 sq ft.

Should I wait this thing out / could it be taking this long for the house to soak up the humidity trying to get to 40%? Or is this unachievable? I could easily back down to 35% and hold that. Can't wait to see this electric bill!

**beenthere** · 12-23-2011, 01:26 PM

Your tech gave some bad advice/info. You don't raise the humidity to swell the house. And increasing indoor temp from 66 to 70 can raise your heating bill anywhere from 6 to 10 percent. Along with making it much harder to get the humidity level up. The warmer the house is, the more moisture that must be added to reach the desired humidity level.

First thing to do. is tighten up your home. Seal those wall switches and receps, along with any can lights you may have. And repair or replace any worn door seals. If you have an attic, and an indoor access to the attic, seal it also. Also seal your duct system if its in the basement or attic. And seal the supply and return registers to the floor/ceiling/wall, what ever type register you have.

Also, recheck that the windows were installed right, an you have no leakage around them.

After doing ll that, your humidifier might have a chance at reaching 40%RH in your house.

MooseMan · 12-23-2011, 01:38 PM

Thanks--

Maybe I should just pick some medium numbers I can maintain. 35% humidity, 68 degrees. Is there a recommended nighttime temperature setting? -5 degrees or something?

Windows are pretty tight, all sealed up w/ expanding foam. Only one window is posing a problem, it's over a window box that I don't think was insulated below - so it doesn't get circulation and is a bit colder.

Entire supply system is enclosed - I could go around and seal the registers/returns.

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere

Your tech gave some bad advice/info. You don't raise the humidity to swell the house. And increasing indoor temp from 66 to 70 can raise your heating bill anywhere from 6 to 10 percent. Along with making it much harder to get the humidity level up. The warmer the house is, the more moisture that must be added to reach the desired humidity level.

First thing to do. is tighten up your home. Seal those wall switches and receps, along with any can lights you may have. And repair or replace any worn door seals. If you have an attic, and an indoor access to the attic, seal it also. Also seal your duct system if its in the basement or attic. And seal the supply and return registers to the floor/ceiling/wall, what ever type register you have.

Also, recheck that the windows were installed right, an you have no leakage around them.

After doing ll that, your humidifier might have a chance at reaching 40%RH in your house.

**beenthere** · 12-23-2011, 02:19 PM

Do the registers and returns. they can leak more then 50% of the total air flow, and cause low humidity in the winter, and high humidity in the summer.

Sealing the receps and switches, will also help to reduce your heating and cooling bill.

You may find 68 and 35%RH comfortable enough. No one recommended temp for all people.

datalinksvc · 01-10-2012, 10:31 AM

I am on my third and final season with a 12 gallon truesteam. It will maintain 35% RH in my 1700sf main level. 40% requires the unit to run continuously. I am all electric with a 4 ton heat pump and a 20kw heat strip backup in the midwest.

Water sensor failed again - 2 blinks. Climate Doctors in Nebraska has been out of stock for two weeks most likely because of so many failures. Just received the new black water sensor. 6 blinks now. This unit is junk. I have a whole house water softener and have changed the Truesteam filter every year per Honeywell recommendations. I will be purchasing the Aprilaire like most other scorned Honeywell users.

Cliffschum · 01-14-2012, 11:48 PM

Can anyone tell me what might cause a Trusteam to stop working, and not show ANY blinking error lights ? Ready light is on, IAQ humidity set point is above actual, etc... Worked fine last year, now its dead. I took a chance and replaced the water level sensor (new 002 level) , thinking maybe it doesn't trigger a code -- but no luck. Could try the solenoid next, but would first appreciate insight from group.

Thanks for any help..

Cliffschum · 01-15-2012, 05:21 PM

Please ignore last post. I've got unit working again, but now struggling with how to get air handler fan to kick on with humidifier....IAQ 25 setting, DIP #4, etc.

Cliffschum · 01-16-2012, 04:08 PM

Just installed the new water sensor to get my unit working again. However, I now cannot get the air handler fan to work in sync with the Trusteam. (Not sure why a new sensor would affect the programming. But, I never received a LED error code on the water sensor either -- I just replaced the part based on symptoms and info from this forum. )

The water starts boiling and the fan won't kick on...which is obviously not good. I've tried changing IAQ Setting 25 to each of the three different settings with no success ...25-1 turns off the Trusteam humidity, but 25-2 and 25-3 just allow the Trusteam to keep boiling without turning the fan on to circulate. I've tried both settings for DIP 4 to no avail.

Read both the Trusteam and IAQ manuals, and wiring appears to be OK...so I'm still assuming its a programming issue..

Has anyone else experienced this problem ? Did I miss something in the manuals ? Once again, I would think that one of the 15 LED error code would be flashing..

Any help or guidance is appreciated.