hi temp boiler cutoff

jmon

yea, i know. I saved the old ones. These have a 30 day waranty - if they don't work right i will return them and get the original 007's. I saved the old ones, but like I said one is bad making grinding noise. I would replace them with new ones. thanks. Should have listen to your advise and stuck with the original 007's. I'm like a big kid on christmas day, when I see or read about something new, I got to have the lastest and greatest thing. I guess some of us have to learn the hard way. My bad. thanks BT.

rootboy

Oh, I didn't notice that these are wells. Much easier.

jmon

thanks rb. yea, if you look really close at the pics (above original post) you'll see some kind of really heavy gauge wire clamp holding that probe in place through the well. I called lochinvar tech support, they said all I have to do is use a pair of pliers and take that wire clamp off the probe going into the well. Probe should come right out, if not then it's corroded and the entire well may have to be removed, cleaned, or replaced. He said, given the age of the boiler, you never really know what's going on or what you are going to find inside until you take it apart, it may be an easy diy project initially. However, if you need to clean or replace those wells it could turn into a more complicated project. He advised me to just be aware of that. He said, a boiler of that age, easy projects can easily turn into difficult projects for diy's.

As BT has suggested in earlier post, that may or may not be the problem. Low water flow to boiler will also make it overshoot. If it still overshoots after replacing aquastat - then there is another issue going on with the boiler.

As I have discussed previously with BT in earlier post, I sit and watch the gauges when boiler first calls for heat. It's cutting off at around 180, which is what I have it set for. Before I replace hi cutoff aquastat, I will observe boiler with cold spell coming up. It seems like after boiler has been on for awhile (really cold nights - when it's running all night long) when both zones are calling for heat at the same time, something goes out of whack. Can't really put my finger on it (kind of does it whenever it wants to). As I discussed with BT earlier, we have a cold spell coming up, and I am going to watch the gauges (temp&PSI) and mark down time and when & what it does, what zones are running when it does it ect. Of course the gauge is really old to (as old as the boiler, 26 years, probably should replaced that at some point to.) - so I don't know how accurate it really is. I will re-post results and let everyone know what i find out. We can go from there. Thanks for everyone's support.

wishing everyone a very happy and safe holiday season.

jmon

I sat and watch the temp and psi gauges through several cycles. It's been shuting off at 180 which is what I have it set for. No banging or overshooting yet - but I do notice when the circulator pumps shut off there is a slight fluctuation in psi pressure about 2 or 3. hard to tell - needle just fluctuates for about 5 seconds.

I hear a little gurgling sound then everything settles down at around 20 psi. At cold psi it is 18-20 hot 20-22. At 26 years old I really don't know how accuate the temp and psi gauge is. This could be normal I don't know.

The current configuation that the pumps are in (verticle) the instuctions reccommend 20 psi cold and 15 psi cold for horizontal mount.

I Purged all air from isolation valves/baseboard after circulator installation. No air sounds just pure water coming out.

that's what I got so far.

Wishing everyone out there a very happy and safe holiday season.

beenthere

Recheck your install instructions on the circs. I think if you look close. Its 20PSIG if the motor is installed vertical.

jmon

your right BT. My bad. thanks.