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-   -   Hercules Base Hit II V Hercules Boiler Fluid (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/hercules-base-hit-ii-v-hercules-boiler-fluid-80016/)

Invisible-Man 08-30-2010 07:44 AM

Hercules Base Hit II V Hercules Boiler Fluid
 
Hi everyone,

I have a hydronic system which has a slight leak under the WEIL-McLAIN GOLD GV Series 4 boiler (contains Cryo-tec), has anyone got any ideas to a common place for the leak on this particular model (I have not removed any insulation for a closer look as of yet), and also if not possible to repair what repair solution should I add to the system........Hercules Base Hit II or Hercules Bolier Fluid........I was just trying to understand the difference between the two.

Many thanks,

Martin

beenthere 09-01-2010 04:05 AM

Probably a seal between sections.

Be carefull of adding leak sealers. They can really screw up that boiler. And Weil mclain WILL void the warranty on it.

If a section is cracked. Get another one under warranty. if its a seal, replace it.

Invisible-Man 09-01-2010 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 494119)
Probably a seal between sections.

Be carefull of adding leak sealers. They can really screw up that boiler. And Weil mclain WILL void the warranty on it.

If a section is cracked. Get another one under warranty. if its a seal, replace it.

Thanks.......do you know what kind of warranty the boiler has, also would that include labour, if not under warranty, are the sections expensive and allot of work to change.......I am quite competent in all areas and the system has to be drained anyway.

Thanks beenthere

beenthere 09-01-2010 04:09 PM

Labor isn't included.

Its a pro rated warranty. First 10 years. Fully block.section warranty.

11th year you pat 5%.Increases by 5% every year, until it maxs at 75% in the 25th year, and stays at 75% from there out.

And yes, the sections are expensive. All cast iron is.

Invisible-Man 09-01-2010 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 494383)
Labor isn't included.

Its a pro rated warranty. First 10 years. Fully block.section warranty.

11th year you pat 5%.Increases by 5% every year, until it maxs at 75% in the 25th year, and stays at 75% from there out.

And yes, the sections are expensive. All cast iron is.

Thanks, you have convinced me, I would much rather change what is needed than add a quick fix additive.......is the job of resealing the sections relatively straight forward to do.....As far as I can seen, the front section is more involved as it has more connected to it, I assume that this section can be left in place when removing the other sections....

Also is Cryo-tec antifreeze ok to have in the system do you think?

Really do appreciate your advice.....

All the best,

Martin

beenthere 09-01-2010 05:07 PM

Anti freeze for boilers. have inhibitors in them. Does it have inhibitors in it?

If not, it could be the cause of the leak if its a seal.

Invisible-Man 09-01-2010 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 494417)
Anti freeze for boilers. have inhibitors in them. Does it have inhibitors in it?

If not, it could be the cause of the leak if its a seal.

Yes it has inhibitors, the system did not have antifreeze when the leak was apparent a year or so ago.......its only a minor lek and drops pressure over a couple of months or so.......

Don't think that the warranty covers (just looked at the conditions) as the boiler was fitted prior to me owning the property

Any idea to the ease of renewing the seals to the rear sections, hopefully leaving the front one in place?

Thanks beenthere

beenthere 09-01-2010 05:53 PM

Well. Its not always easy. Not bad after you do a few though.

Follow the instructions with the seals, and it should be relatively easy. DO NOT get any of the silicon on the seals. if you do. They won't stay in place when you tighten u p the sections.

Invisible-Man 09-02-2010 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 494451)
Well. Its not always easy. Not bad after you do a few though.

Follow the instructions with the seals, and it should be relatively easy. DO NOT get any of the silicon on the seals. if you do. They won't stay in place when you tighten u p the sections.

Just on one face for the silicone I guess, I did see a diagram of how to apply it on Weil Mclain (very small bead)

Thanks beenthere....sorry to bombard you with questions but can I remove the middle and rear section to access the seals without disturbing the front section and all that is connected to it.......also is the insulation around the exterior of the sections the same as attic insulation if I were to replace it....

I think thats about it !

Martin

beenthere 09-02-2010 04:12 PM

The silicon only goes on the cast housing, at the male or female edge. It doesn't make contact with the seal. The purpose of the silicon, is to protect the seal from the products of combustion that would damage the seal.

The insulation is a a standard foil backed insulation. You don't want to use any insulation that isn't foil backed. It would need to be 3 times as thick, to work as well as foil back.

Yes, you can remove the section with out disconnecting the burner and probes from the front section.

Invisible-Man 09-02-2010 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 495021)
The silicon only goes on the cast housing, at the male or female edge. It doesn't make contact with the seal. The purpose of the silicon, is to protect the seal from the products of combustion that would damage the seal.

The insulation is a a standard foil backed insulation. You don't want to use any insulation that isn't foil backed. It would need to be 3 times as thick, to work as well as foil back.

Yes, you can remove the section with out disconnecting the burner and probes from the front section.

I note the seal kits are quite expensive $60 or so per joint.....as I live in the UK and ordering parts for my home in the USA prior to being there (blind if you like), would you suggest one or two repair packages........was not sure if a leak was between the middle and front section that you could keep the rear joint intact when dissmantling or just be prepared to do both.......last question I promise!

Great Stuff !!!

Martin

beenthere 09-02-2010 04:36 PM

If you got the muscle, you can do it with out removing the back section.

There small sections. not hard to move around.

Invisible-Man 09-02-2010 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 495033)
If you got the muscle, you can do it with out removing the back section.

There small sections. not hard to move around.

Sure.........was not just thinking of the weight but also worried about once the studs are undone both joins would seperate rendering both joins needing renewal!

beenthere 09-02-2010 05:06 PM

Generally, you need to pry them apart.

Should be separate rods for each section.

Invisible-Man 09-03-2010 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 495058)
Generally, you need to pry them apart.

Should be separate rods for each section.

This particular one has 2 tie rods holding the 3 sections together.....here is a link

http://www.weil-mclain.com/en/multimedia-library/pdf/weil-mclain-pdf/other-downloads/current/gv.pdf

All the best,

Martin


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