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Old 01-02-2008, 09:20 PM   #1
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Help with humidifier


I have a Trane xl 90 furnace Heat pump with gas backup I have a Honeywell bypass humidifer hooked up to it my questions is when the heat pump comes on and the Gas furnace comes on low speed the humidifier kicks on but when gas blower goes to high the humidifier shuts off. What do I need to do to make it come on any time fan is signaled to come on whether it be high low or anytime, also the humidifier is installed on supply side of furnace with duct going back down to the return side of furnace is this correct?

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Old 01-02-2008, 10:35 PM   #2
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Help with humidifier


It is hooke dup to a blower winding which is wrong, it needs to be powered by a current sensing relay on the common wire of the blower motor, that way any time the blower is on the unit will operate.

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Old 01-04-2008, 08:47 AM   #3
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since this thread deals with humidifier problems, I'll post mine here. I have an Aprilaire Model 550 humidifier which I can't get to work. The furnace man used his voltmeter on the two wires (red and white) running from the Heil furnace to the solenoid valve on the humidifier and determined they were producing 26 volts. He concluded that the solenoid valve must be bad because the valve would not let water pass through it on the outlet side. I replaced the solenoid valve and still have the same problem, i.e., water will not come out of the solenoid valve on the outlet side.

and Yes, I have water flowing to the solenoid valve and the saddle valve on the copper water supply line works.

and Yes, I turned my humidistat control 'ON' and all the way up. Still no water coming out of the outlet side of the solenoid valve.

any suggestions as to how I can get this Aprilaire 550 humidifier to work? Thanks.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:27 AM   #4
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If this is wired correctly and you are getting 26 volts at the solenoid with the blower on, I would use a test light to see if the valve is getting enough current, you may have a bad wire.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:53 AM   #5
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47_47
Not sure I quite understand you. what kind of a 'test light' do I need to check the solenoid valve and where would a bad wire be (if it is a bad wire)?

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If this is wired correctly and you are getting 26 volts at the solenoid with the blower on, I would use a test light to see if the valve is getting enough current, you may have a bad wire.
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Old 01-04-2008, 11:46 AM   #6
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All electrical devices need both voltage and current to work. What you need to do is see if you are getting current at the solenoid. A test light is just a 24-volt light bulb, that you hook up to the wires at the solenoid, you have the current available to open the valve. I did a little reseach and this model does have an inline strainer on the solenoid inlet and an orifice on the outlet of the solenoid. I would check them as they may be plugged. Here's a link to AprilAire's site.

http://estore.aprilaire.com/index.ph...76&act=product
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:23 PM   #7
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All electrical devices need both voltage and current to work. What you need to do is see if you are getting current at the solenoid. A test light is just a 24-volt light bulb, that you hook up to the wires at the solenoid, you have the current available to open the valve. I did a little reseach and this model does have an inline strainer on the solenoid inlet and an orifice on the outlet of the solenoid. I would check them as they may be plugged. Here's a link to AprilAire's site.

http://estore.aprilaire.com/index.ph...76&act=product
Thanks 47_47. I already bought a new solenoid valve and it has a brand new strainer on the inlet side....it is not plugged. I looked inside the outlet side and can see a white piece of plastic with a very small hole in it. It doesn't appear to be plugged. Again, it is a brand new and clean solenoid valve.

I learned something, i.e., both voltage and current are needed. Thanks

Hope I don't have totally rotten luck by picking up a new defective solenoid valve..it states it is made in the USA on it and is 24 V.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:54 PM   #8
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Irishking23,
I would place my hand on top of the solenoid and have someone turn up the thermostat to call for heat. When the furnace blower kicks in, you should feel or hear the solenoid click. If it does you have a water problem, if it doesn't, could be a defective new solenoid. All you need for it to work is a 24 volt signal from your furnace, a humidistat a solenoid, the connecting wires and water. Let me know how you make out.
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Old 01-04-2008, 01:19 PM   #9
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Just learned from the furnace man that the electronic sensor relay for the humidifier is bad (it's like a small black plastic box with 2 yellow wires near the control board down inside the furnace). That's why the humidifier wouldn't work..the relay broke down with a load and no signal was being sent to the solenoid to open and allow water through it. Have to get a new sensor relay and the humidifier will work properly.

Last edited by Irishking23; 01-04-2008 at 02:56 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 01-04-2008, 03:17 PM   #10
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At least you now know what to replace. I ordered my 550 from IAQsource, they provided good service and list this part.
http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php...&category=1126
I don't know if their price is the least expensive.
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Old 01-04-2008, 03:44 PM   #11
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Thank you 47_47. $35 is probably a reasonable price for that current sensing relay.

I'll be so happy to get that humidifier working because the air has been so dry in the house...skin drying out and cracking, body developing ugly scaly looking skin, etc.

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At least you now know what to replace. I ordered my 550 from IAQsource, they provided good service and list this part.
http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php...&category=1126
I don't know if their price is the least expensive.
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Old 01-04-2008, 03:53 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Irishking23 View Post
Just learned from the furnace man that the electronic sensor relay for the humidifier is bad (it's like a small black plastic box with 2 yellow wires near the control board down inside the furnace). That's why the humidifier wouldn't work..the relay broke down with a load and no signal was being sent to the solenoid to open and allow water through it. Have to get a new sensor relay and the humidifier will work properly.

Is that the same service man that told you the solenoid was bad? How could he have had voltage at the solenoid if the relay was bad?
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Old 01-04-2008, 04:27 PM   #13
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Is that the same service man that told you the solenoid was bad? How could he have had voltage at the solenoid if the relay was bad?
BigMike
It's the same company but a different serviceman who came out this time.

here is what the new service guy did and said. He ran a voltmeter check on the two (2) wires, red and white, running from the furnace control board area to the solenoid valve and it came back at 24 volts. The previous serviceman did the same thing. However the new guy investigated further and concluded that the sensing relay is bad. To quote him he said "The sensor relay goes bad with any load put to it." He apparently bypassed the sensing relay and hot wired the solenoid valve causing it to work..water started rushing through and out of it to the humidifier.

Hope I adequately explained what went down today. Awaiting a new sensor relay.
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Old 01-04-2008, 04:37 PM   #14
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So chances are the old valve was good. How old is your furnace and what brand is it? Most newer furnaces have a terminal on the control board to operate the humidifier when the fan is on, so you wouldn't need the sensing relay, just a different way of wiring it.
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Old 01-04-2008, 07:23 PM   #15
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BigMike
I'd say your assumption is probably right that the old solenoid valve was good. Darn dang, I wasted about $40 buying a new one and messing around with it.

The furnace is a Heil 7000---a high efficiency and approx. 13 yrs old.
There is a terminal by the control board marked W, Y, R, G and C.

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