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Old 10-22-2012, 09:17 PM   #1
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Have a Heil non-split unit. The heat does not blow. The air seems to blow good. The thermostat indicated the batteries may be bad. I changed them then checked the old ones (double a's), and they showed around 1.3 volts.

My unit at my house gave me a problem once. It is a split unit, and I had to replaced a small piece of hose going to the pressure switch which had been gnawed on by squirrels. I can't say if it was the same problem, seems like it was in regard to the blower not coming on. I do not know if the air would have worked then.

Is it likely the blower would work for the cool air but not the heat?

I wish I had noted what kind of stat is being used on it. This is a rental we have.

Any helpful comments appreciated.

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Old 10-22-2012, 09:48 PM   #2
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You have money to call a PRO.

Maybe the the motor winding for med speed is bad....you can swap the med speed ( blue or red wires ) to high speed ( black wire ) to confirm this.

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Old 10-23-2012, 06:57 AM   #3
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reverse the wires mentioned?

How would I ohm the motor windings. I would hate to do any damage with live wires.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:15 AM   #4
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Not reverse wires, change the speed tap so switch from the one currently being used in heating to another one. In cooling mode the high speed tap/wire utilizes the entirety of the motor's windings/magnetic field. Now cut a third of those windings away and pull a wire from that spot and you have less motor windings and less of the magnetic field so a slower revolution of the motor. That's how speed taps work, picking up how much of the motor's windings by placing take offs in specific spots.

Cooling is high speed, heat is usually med low or low. What JJboy is saying is to try a different motor speed wire from the motor for heating.

What I want to know is is this gas or electric? If gas is the unit at least trying to light up or not?
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:43 AM   #5
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Gas unit. I can hear the thermostat click inside the house. I have not been back to check it other than to change the batteries. I thought it blew temporarily once then stopped. Hopefully, I will have more info today.

Thanks to both for responding.

I have had non-family in this house for short periods of time only 3 times in all the years I have had it. The renters in it now are the first in many years. Just had to replace the waterheater.

In other words, never was a money maker. In fact, for the most part, a slight negative cash flow.

P.s> I did notice a slight dent in the frame when I was leaving. I was just saying a few days ago I hoped no one would back into it. I hope that is not what happend. If so, hope for no or minor damge.

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Old 10-23-2012, 09:15 PM   #6
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I did go back to look at this unit. I removed the access panel and saw no sign of even a pilot, much less any main flame.
What particular parts do I need to check. The pressure/vacuum switch to makes up (ohmeter showed continuity)when I apply vacuum to the tube. The fan is running that the tube is connect to, but nothing else seems to be happening.

My gas valve looks very much like the one in the "stumped" thread.

I mentioned a dent in the unit. This is a very slight wringle in the corner near the side where the lines come in (gas and elctrical). This wringle is about bumper high. Any chance someone backed into it and did some damge to the gas valve? The way the people park the unit is behind their cars where they turn around to enter the 4 lane.

Anyway, tips on what to check an how. Example: how to check for 24 volts or whatever at the valve, transformer, etc,,

Thanks poor boy needs help!
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:57 PM   #7
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Turn stat off and jump 24 volts to gas valve. Does it click? Is lighting element trying? Or use a manometer to check pressure.
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:49 AM   #8
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How do I jump 24 volts to the valve? Jumper wires from 24 volt transformer?

I have no way of checking the pressure.
I can check voltages.
My only experience with central units is changing a couple of contactors, a fan motor on the compressor, and replacing the hose on a vacuum switch. I have also replaced a thermocouple on older gas heaters.

Thanks for responding.

I will try to get back up there today and take a picture of this thing, valva, transformer, board, etc.

Btw, The thermostat is a White Rodgers, and I can hear it click, so I am thinking it is okay. I really just do not know how to trace the power from there. I guess I need to spend some more time studying the schematics.

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Old 10-24-2012, 06:58 PM   #9
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How do I jump 24 volts to the valve? Jumper wires from 24 volt transformer?
I know which side of the transformer is the secondary, where do I place the jumpers on the valve?

You do mean turn the stat off but leave the power from the panel on , right?
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:30 PM   #10
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Yes, you can bypass the 24 volts to the board altogether and use the secondary lines from the transformer directly to the valve OR simply jump from the R and C terminal of the control board to the gas valve. You'd need to be certain you have 24 volts coming from those two terminals. If anything at all works from the thermostat (cooling or fan on) than you do have 24 volts. If you do it this way while in heating than you stand a chance of the furnace actually lighting up, if the valve is good.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:34 PM   #11
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If you are doing this while in heating mode than you'd use R and W terminals for 24 volts. If stat is not calling for anything than you use R and C.

If there is a door switch on the furnace you need to tape that down or the furnace will not have any power at all.

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