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Old 05-29-2011, 03:57 PM   #16
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HEIL HVAC Problem - Not kicking on


Sorry, Doc, I always seem to get the two ass backwards and shouldn't, but then I can't remember my name half the time...lol

Capacitor hasn't been changed that I can tell. I'm also NOT getting any current flow through it with the power on.

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Old 05-29-2011, 04:02 PM   #17
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HEIL HVAC Problem - Not kicking on


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Sorry, Doc, I always seem to get the two ass backwards and shouldn't, but then I can't remember my name half the time...lol

Capacitor hasn't been changed that I can tell. I'm also NOT getting any current flow through it with the power on.

Not getting any power through the control board or through the run cap? . If you are receiving voltage to the fan motor and it is not spinning than it is the cap or the motor or both.
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:03 PM   #18
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HEIL HVAC Problem - Not kicking on


Is the motor spinning freely or is it sticking and is the motor itself getting hot with voltage applied?
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:05 PM   #19
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The blower motor runs fine.....I can disconnect the lead from the board and jump it across the power in and it starts right up and runs great. I'll have to wait till Tuesday to get a new capacitor as there is nothing open for the next two days here.

As for the controller board, the HVAC parts place here says that the replacement would match up to the old board. New board is a Honeywell ST9120U 1011 and the old board was a Honeywell ST9120C 4057. It is listed as a match on the box the new one came in.


[QUOTE=Doc Holliday;657241]at this point it is either the blower motor itself or the run cap or both. if you have mfd capability on your meter you can test it. I'd say you can test it by amp draw but if your motor isn't spinning than no amps are being drawn so that leaves a new control board that is sending voltage to the motor but the motor is not spinning.
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:06 PM   #20
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Motor is spinning freely and is not heating up that I can tell. Seems to run as it always has.

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Is the motor spinning freely or is it sticking and is the motor itself getting hot with voltage applied?
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:10 PM   #21
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If the blower motor is running then the cap is good. Just jump everything and turn the breaker off when it gets cool enough for now.

It's becoming apparent that you most likely need to call a service technician out. I know it's hard times right now but without being there it's hard to tell any longer what is going on so there's only so much we can do.
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:13 PM   #22
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Yuri, I'd love to be able to replace it, but I am barely getting by with 'needs' on an unemployment check and savings are all but depleted. It will be at least a year, once I find something other than working at freakin' Wal-Mart, before I could even think about replacing ANYTHING around this house.......and most likely I will move before then. I haven't even used the furnace part in years because electric is cheaper than the gas here and it is the only thing gas in the house. If I can't get the AC running, then I'll have to have the family get used to not having AC this summer (which sucks around Memphis) but I've done it before.

Not a matter of not wanting to spend the money for a professional, there's no money to spend....I'm on a strict DIY or nothing budget at this point.

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Which blower control board did you use to replace the original. Those universal boards don't always replace the OEM ones properly and I avoid using them. It also needs to be securely mounted and grounded properly. Furnace needs to be grounded properly too. Poor grounding can damage circuit boards. Looks pretty rusty to me and not in good shape. New board may now be damaged. Hate saying it but throwing parts into it without knowing the problem may cost more than a Pro to do the job. I would consider a new furnace as that one is 10 yrs old, needs expensive repairs and the heat exchanger may be in fair to poor shape and not last too much longer. Average life of the exhaust fan/ventor fan is 10 yrs.
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:16 PM   #23
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HEIL HVAC Problem - Not kicking on


The compressor and AC itself don't run when I jump it (that I can tell at least), just the blower motor.

Oh well, thanks for your efforts, Doc. I guess we'll just do without and maybe get a 110 unit for each room as we go along with the summer. They're still cheaper than having a pro (and here I use that term VERY loosely) come out.

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If the blower motor is running then the cap is good. Just jump everything and turn the breaker off when it gets cool enough for now.

It's becoming apparent that you most likely need to call a service technician out. I know it's hard times right now but without being there it's hard to tell any longer what is going on so there's only so much we can do.
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:29 PM   #24
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HEIL HVAC Problem - Not kicking on


I have worked on lots of those units and they ain't the cadillac of the biz if you know what I mean. Windows units may be a lot better idea. The rusting and corrosion and bad wiring connections etc are a big part of the problem. GOOD Pros are hard to find and the poor ones charge the same rate so I doubt it is worth spending good $$ on.
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:45 PM   #25
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Considering the way the inbred rednecks added on to this house, I didn't expect it to be even median of the line AC unit. But it has ran like a champ for the last 5 years and I've never really had any problems out of it before now. As I said, the first day I turned it on this year, it ran great for about 3 or 4 hours and then NOTHING. Won't be long before 100+ degree days with high humidity are here, so I was just trying to do what I could to get it running.

Of course, whomever added on to the house also decided to put SMALL windows in the damn place, so the smallest 100v unit BARELY fits with a great deal of cussing and screaming. House is 2 years away from being paid off and then I'm burning the damn thing to the ground!!

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I have worked on lots of those units and they ain't the cadillac of the biz if you know what I mean. Windows units may be a lot better idea. The rusting and corrosion and bad wiring connections etc are a big part of the problem. GOOD Pros are hard to find and the poor ones charge the same rate so I doubt it is worth spending good $$ on.
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:44 PM   #26
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HEIL HVAC Problem - Not kicking on


Let's start all over, shall we?

With all of the wires connected normally IN the thermostat, does anything come on? Will the blower motor come on when the stat is in the "on" position? Will the sat do anything? Heat?

Is it only the ouside unit that is not coming on when calling for cool?
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:51 PM   #27
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NOTHING comes on when stat is placed in the 'on' position (whether on heat, off or cool).....nor attempts to come on that I can tell. I can't hear the compressor trying to engage from in the house like I normally could. It acts like there is no power going to it at all, but there is.

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Let's start all over, shall we?

With all of the wires connected normally IN the thermostat, does anything come on? Will the blower motor come on when the stat is in the "on" position? Will the sat do anything? Heat?

Is it only the ouside unit that is not coming on when calling for cool?

Last edited by Thanatos63; 05-29-2011 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:24 PM   #28
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NOTHING comes on when stat is placed in the 'on' position (whether on heat, off or cool).....nor attempts to come on that I can tell. I can't hear the compressor trying to engage from in the house like I normally could. It acts like there is no power going to it at all, but there is.
So where are you jumping to get the blower to come on, are you bypassing the stat or are you jumping at the control board?
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:27 PM   #29
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You do have a meter, right? Can you check for voltage at the stat? The R terminal should have 24-ish volts.
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:37 PM   #30
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HEIL HVAC Problem - Not kicking on


Pulling the circulation blower 'cool' lead from the board and jumping it across the 110v line coming onto the board directly. This photo show the lead where I would have pulled it from on the old board....same label on the new board.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I just pulled the input off of the door safety switch and jumped it across. When I do this, the fan starts right up and runs perfectly. No abnormal noise, vibration or heat that I can tell.


THIS https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink is the new board BTW, if that helps any.

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So where are you jumping to get the blower to come on, are you bypassing the stat or are you jumping at the control board?


Last edited by Thanatos63; 05-29-2011 at 10:42 PM.
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