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Old 05-27-2009, 12:20 PM   #61
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Heil Furnace Burner Problem


Success! I guess I lucked out. A local heating company guy showed how to get the pilot orfice out. He could not get it out. Apparently it just sets in there but a little rust prevented it from coming out, With liberal shot of WD-40 I gently tapped it on my vise and it fell out. I blew on both ends of the orfice with my mouth and checked it out. There was a pinhole of light shining through. So, I put it back together and it worked! The funny part is after I got it all back together I discovered, in a dark corner of the furnace, a brand new orfice in a smalll plastic bag. Oh well, I'm leaving it in there as long as it works. And now I know I have a new spare orfice if I have that problem again. Thanx for you input kenmac. I appreciated your help. Donaldb

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Old 05-27-2009, 12:28 PM   #62
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Make sure that other oricice spud is for the correct gas. It could be for propane or nat gas



by the way,,,,, Good job !
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:38 PM   #63
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Thanx kenmac, The little plastic bag has 4-5 threaded brass fittings with holes in the cap. I assume it is for the installer to cover all the different models. There is one that looks exactly like my orfice. I really don't know if it a natural gas orfice or a propane orfice. The hole looks a tiny bit larger but it is impossible to tell for sure. There is no literature with them. If I ever go to replace it again, I think I will just go buy a new one. Is the orfice hole for natural gas bigger than for propane? Donaldb
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:40 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donaldb View Post
Is the orfice hole for natural gas bigger than for propane?



Yes. The nat. gas may be .023 propane may be .015


I don't know what size they may have used for your assy.
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Old 06-13-2009, 09:39 AM   #65
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Thank you all for the info. I found this chatroom by Googling "Heil furnace heat exchanger".

I also have a Heil DC90 that was installed in my large home about 1999 that has had the Fan set in the ON position to circulate the air (recommended by an HVAC friend but not the installer shortly after installation). In February 2009, the furnace intermittently would NOT automatically heat my home in the mornings after the evening set-back. I would get up and switch the T-stat setting from HEAT to OFF, wait a few seconds, then flip it back to HEAT it would begin blowing heat. After a month or so of this, I broke down and called the company that installed the furnace. The serviceman did his thing about an hour then told me he couldn't find anything wrong, BUT he said there was a "design flaw" problem with the Heil heat exchanger that is covered under warranty. I was relieved, until I talked to someone at their office who explained the "rings" were missing from the heat exchanger and the part(s) are covered under warranty but there would be a $190 charge for the one to two hours of labor. I also asked for their assurance that this would fix the problem, because I would not be happy about another service charge in the fall for the same thing.

I called another older, experienced, retired HVAC guy who told me he didn't understand what "rings" they were talking about and thought they were feeding me a line since it was their slow season and they were probably looking for work for the employees.

Since the heating season has past, I decided to do more research before I part with $190.

Is anyone aware of a Heil recall or reimbursement for this problem?
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:49 PM   #66
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Same problem, ....my solution..! my furnace would run until the blower fan kicked in. then maybe a minute or two....sometimes longer(but rarely). After reading the posts here i decided to take another look at everything. Turns out i had a dirty trap/clogged drain line. The other day i was checking the pilot system, and kinda just pokin around. I did see water dripping out the tube, so i did not inspect it any further. today i found this thread, and started with the simple advice....Make sure nothing is clogged. I opened the burner panel again and saw two caps on the fitting between the motor and the chimney pipe. When i pulled it off water came out....hmmmmm. i pulled the drain hoses off the chimney stack and the bottom of blower assembly (both run to the same trap). i plugged one and blew hard into the other... it was hard at first , then "pop" free as a bird. It was not plugged totally, but close. when the furnace was between cycles it would drain a lil, but not as it should.....
Water in the fan seems to effect the high switch more than the low, so the furnace would lite,,,run a little while then , "blow out". The fix was instantanious, it ran like normal rite away.

I am no furnace expert, but this was a simple fix.......seems many people have this sort of problem and it is definately worth looking at closely.... ony takes a few minutes..... even if u see a drip of water at the end of the hose.. hope it is this easy for everyone else....thanx for all the posts.
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Old 09-22-2010, 01:31 PM   #67
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Well it seems like its been a year since anyone added to this post. I am having similiar problems with my 12 year old DC90. It happened 2 previous times in the past 3 years and I called a service man and both he replaced a "rollout switch", and things seemed to work for a while. Intermittenly, the furnace wouldnt fire up, and I had to power off and reset to get it to fire up.

This time around, I have a bit more time (its not freezing yet) and stumbled across this forum. I am going to try some of the suggestions here by my heroes donaldb, kenmac, and bernie s.

I am a newbie, but I am going to try 1) testing that gas is coming out of the valve, 2) cleaning the ignitor heads and gas orifice, and look into the drain line issue.

At the moment, I havent looked into any of this to see whats feasible for me, but once I get the cover off, Im hoping everything will make sense. There could be further questions to come!!
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Old 09-22-2010, 05:38 PM   #68
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So after I got home from work today, I took off the faceplate covering the pilot light, and unfastened the ignitor and pilot light assembly. I noticed plenty of debris and little burnt metal flakes inside the nozzle of the pilot light/gas outlet. I cleaned that up, and didnt bother with any other testing, as I figured this was 100% the issue. After re-assembling, turning on the gas and power, it fired right up. So far so good! Hope this simple fix works for others too.
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Old 12-23-2010, 12:07 AM   #69
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Problem: All I'm currently getting is lots of nice blue spark but no pilot on. I have replaced the spark ignitor I bought at Grainger (see pic) and replaced the stupid 'ol Smart Valve that I bought on ebay. Still, lots of spark but no pilot light on. I checked the pilot line with a rubber hose on one end into a container of water and gas was coming out. By the way, I removed the line and cleaned it out with some brake cleaner and forced air with my air compressor to make sure there was no junk in it. Replaced it and no luck. I was thinking the control board but the fact that gas is coming out to light the pilot should be a good sign. It doesn't make sense to replace it since I can't get that dam pilot on. Are there any sensors in the unit? If so where? I know there is one round one nearby but I hesitate on buying it and just go crazy replacing parts. Any suggestions? PLease help.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:35 PM   #70
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Well it appears that i have the same problem with my Heil product. furnace is about 6-7 years old model ntn3.

The symptom is the furnace turns on via regular trigger, pilot lights, but main burners will intermittently fail to start up. shortly therafter the main blower fan comes on, as if its lit.. but its not and it blows cold air indefinitely until i reset it.Normally in cold weather ( or when its on more much more frequent) it seems to work just fine. Mild mornings and warmer afternoons are when i mostly notice the problem.

When furnace has been sitting for awhile.. Normally i can get the burners to fire if i wait 5 mins with power off. and reset it.. It is very consistent, 100% success getting the main burners to light this way.....for now...... and its fine there after unless the furnace sits dormant for awhile..

The other way i can sometimes get it the main burners to fire is to turn the smart valve off with the on/off switch.wait untill the glow happens, flick switch immediately, pilot lights.. and sometimes i will get main burners to fire.this method works about 70% of the time. I notice that i only get one click out of the smart valve when it fails. When it works properly i get 2 clicks. im assuming one relay for pilot valve, and another for main gas valve..

I have replaced my igniter. which didn't change anything one bit(the old one worked perfect, yes i cleaned it)

Another point to note is the burners burn perfect when my furnace does work as does the pilot. the blowers minor squeeky and there is no sign of condensation or oxidization anywhere on the unit including the orifices.. This furnace has a proper cold air intake ran close by. The thing looks brand friggen new still actually, minus the UN-new issue im having. I keep it clear of dust and blow down the burners with air and vac every season..

Now i did talk to a buddy of mine (gasfitter) and he is a little baffled.. on my problem. I just ordered a smart valve assembly off ebay and im gonna try that.. as it was suggested in this thread and by a few other gasfitter dudes i know that smart valves suck.. and probably my failure.. Just wanted to find out if the dude that started the thread ever got his issue sorted.
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:52 PM   #71
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I read all the posts about this unit. I first checked the pilot gas flow from the smart valve with no flow. Pulled the igniter assembly and found the igniter had a hairline crack at the end of the element. It was 13 yrs old. Replaced that assembly and the unit fired up perfectly.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:11 PM   #72
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Sometimes iginitors, the nitrate hsi ones that glow, have miniscule fractures not visible to the eye. They will light up and glow but the furnace still will not fire. What you do with those is test amp draw. It should pull a consistant amperage rate until the gas valve opens. With one with a crack that apparently is trying to work, the hotter it gets the wider the crack so it gets hot and then the crack opens up, cutting continuity so the ignitor stops just shy of the gas valve opening.

If the amperage drops before the gas valve opens then the ignitor is the problem.

Just thought I'd add.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:58 PM   #73
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Hey Doc
I was under the impression that only Lennox used boards that automatically tested for HSI continuity. Do you know of any other brands that do?
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:52 AM   #74
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woke up to a cold house. blower still running but no heat. have powered everything down and tried restarting but the only thing that runs is the blower and exhaust blower right away. hear the noise from the pressure sensor. no ignition glow or pilot flame. should the main blower run right away? suspect the smartvalve but would like to check all possabilities.
THANKS.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:18 AM   #75
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what suspect an open limit i fan is running all the time.

what brand of furnace is it?

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