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Old 01-17-2009, 08:56 PM   #1
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heat not getting warm


Hey guys i need some help with my electric furnace. It is an old Carrier AC/Heat combo. My problem is my heat just never seems to get very warm.

I have checked the elements and they are all 11 ohms. The elements all have voltage to them and there is voltage coming in and out of all the element limit switchs. I don't see how my heat tempature is so low when all the elements are on. The elements are pulling the same amps also. Could the elements be so clogged with dirt that the heat doesn't radiat out?

The sequencer should be alright since the elements are getting voltage shouldn't they. When the unit is on the sequencer terminals all have voltage. There is a terminal that doesn't have voltage. One terminal has 24V and the other terminal has 0 volts on the sequencer and the resistance on this is 60 ohms. There is a symbol between these terminals that looks like a potentiometer symbol.

The obvious stuff has been checked filter, registers, etc.

Any ideas?

Here is a link to the sequencer I have.

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...it/60-2051.pdf

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Old 01-18-2009, 01:34 AM   #2
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heat not getting warm


could be undersized how many kw? how many elements? approx 20 amps per 5 kw so if you have 4- 5kw elements you would expect to see it pulling around 80 amps. is it a heat pump? need more info here

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Old 01-18-2009, 04:34 AM   #3
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heat not getting warm


how the air discharging into the space chance you might be running hi or medium speed there instead of low for heating.check you air in/out temp.split on the heater.
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Old 01-18-2009, 04:40 AM   #4
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Since you said you have voltage on both sides of the sequencers.
Your checking them wrong.

I could be wrong, But, I'm guessing your thinking, since you had 120 volts on both sides, that means its working.

It doesn't.

This may be a bit over your skill level to work on.
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:26 AM   #5
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All the sequencer pretty much is are contacts if there is voltage to one side of the contact and coming out the other its working. That is the contact itself.

I wouldn't worry about the skill level.
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:52 PM   #6
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So you think if you measure 120 volts on both sides, electric is coming out the other side?

That type of measurement, tells you nothing.

Skill level is important.
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:31 PM   #7
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He also sead the elements are all drawing the same amprage. That means they are all operating. Possably the voltage is low causing less heat. I assume this is a recent problem with a system that has been in place for a wile. This must be a new problem maby the reversing valve has failed in the heat pump and it is acting back like a a/c.
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Old 01-18-2009, 07:29 PM   #8
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Nothing says he didn't read the same elecment twice, thinking he was reading the second one.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:47 PM   #9
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This says I didn't read the same one twice, thinking it was the second one.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:28 PM   #10
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heat not getting warm


what been is trying not to say is this is not a 110 volt appliance so

in my humble opinion electric heat is not for the weak at heart I do not send a tech I go my self.

A hint you need an amprobe
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin66 View Post
All the sequencer pretty much is are contacts if there is voltage to one side of the contact and coming out the other its working. That is the contact itself.

I wouldn't worry about the skill level.
No! NO NO NO I always worry about skill level

In 1997 I worked on a unit on the north side of the city. The reason I bring this up is the paramedics had just left with the man who worked on it before me. He had 20years in the trade and made a fatal mistake. Skill is important when working with deadly potential difference you cannot see hear or smell.
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:17 PM   #12
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heat not getting warm


MY fluke has an amprobe.
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:24 AM   #13
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Your elec is very likely to be pulling 240, which is why you are getting 120 twice. There are usually two 120 lines coming into the air handler, i'm not saying you don't have any skill with measuring current, but a hit from 240 will leave you waking up in the next room or not at all, so be super careful.

Take a good thermometer, or a temp probe from your meter, it may have come with it....the small sturdy gold colored wire works great as a temp probe.

When the system kicks on observe the temp, after about 3-4 min watch to see if it increases. You could have a bad reversing valve or thermostat in which you could have the A/C running in "HEAT" and the elec strips are compensating.

Or you could have the unit thinking it's in "DEFROST" mode in which the A/C will be on also and happening like this every cycle.

If you are getting 85 deg or so off the coils alone that's not bad, if it's less then it could be undercharged. The fact your strips are kicking on everytime isn't a factor of how hot they are, it's that they are always kicking on, shouldn't happen unless the stat calls for it because it's not being satisified or it's in defrost mode.

Check your filters, make sure the coils are clean, open all the registers.
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:04 AM   #14
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heat not getting warm


Thank you i6pwr I completely understand what your saying about being careful. I deal with this everyday at work except its only 480V. Oh wait I was just in a massive layoff thanks to the 2nd great depression so I guess I wont be dealing with 480V anytime soon.
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin66 View Post
All the sequencer pretty much is are contacts if there is voltage to one side of the contact and coming out the other its working. That is the contact itself.

I wouldn't worry about the skill level.
Bad things happen to good people.

I wanted to add that some sequencers work on a delay, some turn right on. If the strips are measuring 11 ohms then that should be good, I believe 10 is the norm but close enough.

The two things I take great respect in when operating or working around is chainsaws and high voltage. Sorry to sound like an arse but I feel you know enough about high voltage to be dangerous.

Hey if you are a certified tech then it sure doesn't sound like it, so I apologize if you are. But either case, you are messing around with incredibly dangerous voltage, if the strips aren't broken there could be a situation where the strips just don't have the resistance anymore to generate alot of heat, but I think the ohms would tell this, that i'm not 100% on.

Thing is, poking around sequencers and heat strips in a tight area with live power is a recipe for disaster unless you know what you are probing and understand electricity will jump, especially 240.

Just want you to be safe, I think you have checked out what you can and from this point on get a HVAC tech to further poke around inside the handler.


Edited to add..........

And I posted this after your last response so at least that answers one of my questions.

You never stated your profession so you have to expect to somewhat of an earful.


Last edited by i6pwr; 01-19-2009 at 01:08 AM.
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