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Old 07-28-2010, 11:09 PM   #16
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Min of 16 ohms on the coil.

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Old 07-29-2010, 09:17 PM   #17
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Min of 16 ohms on the coil.
I went to outside unit today, It was nothing the like the drawings I provide. It appears that the Y and C are connect to what look to be a single pole with a shunt contactor an on the other side of the contactor is a huge capacitor. With the power off I check to see if any of the contacts were grounded out which the weren't.
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:44 PM   #18
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Its not the contacts that you need to check. Its where the low voltage wires(from Y and C) connect. That you need to check.
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:56 PM   #19
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Its not the contacts that you need to check. Its where the low voltage wires(from Y and C) connect. That you need to check.
I checked them, even the other 2 wires that aren't being used. all an none of the wires were grounded. Could it still be the xfmr? I have eliminated the wiring to the thermostat by connecting a short run from the control board. Tried a different control board and a different thermostat. If Y and C aren't short to ground I don't know what else that could be causing the fuse to blow.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:09 PM   #20
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Did you disconnect the low voltage wires from both the outside unit and inside unit and check them that way.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:20 PM   #21
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Did you disconnect the low voltage wires from both the outside unit and inside unit and check them that way.

Yes exactly. I want to see If I disconnected them from both the outside and inside unit would Y and C have continuity but the didn't. The drawing is actually at this link
http://www.goodmanmfg.com/Portals/0/pdf/SS/SS-GSC13.pdf. and if I am reading this correctly the coil is on the contactor. Like you said it may be grounding it self out. I guess my next step would be to change out the contactor right?
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:25 PM   #22
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You can check with your meter if its grounding out.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:42 PM   #23
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You can check with your meter if its grounding out.

I guess I tried that when I tapped all of the leads in the junction box to ground. nothing in there was grounded.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:54 PM   #24
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And what was the ohm reading across the coil of the contactor?
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Old 07-30-2010, 07:42 AM   #25
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And what was the ohm reading across the coil of the contactor?
I'll check this today. Question.... the coil on the contactor.. all it does is pull the contactor pole down to provide power to the compressor right?
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:04 AM   #26
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Yes, its just a switch. An electrically operated switch, but still a switch.
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:00 PM   #27
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Yes, its just a switch. An electrically operated switch, but still a switch.
Measured across the coil was open, so I suspect that when that magnetism goes through the coil 1 side may be grounding out. I placed the new coil in and letting the fan suck the air out of the attic. Once its cool enough I will attempt to turn the AC on and let you know the out come.

Beenthere,
Looks like that was next puzzle piece put into the correct place to solve the issue. Ok... power up and running nothing burning out out or up, however there is now cool air coming out of the vents. Any ideas? Again thanks without your help I wouldn't have gotten this far.

Last edited by diynoobee; 07-30-2010 at 05:03 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:01 PM   #28
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If the coil is open. Then no magnetism is created, since no voltage can go through. Unless teh coil is grounded.

Did you meter read OL, or did it read zero?
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:17 PM   #29
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If the coil is open. Then no magnetism is created, since no voltage can go through. Unless teh coil is grounded.

Did you meter read OL, or did it read zero?
only .6 ohms.
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:23 PM   #30
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Coils shorting out to itself.

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