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-   -   Glowing Ignitor, No gas- Goodman GMP050-3 (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/glowing-ignitor-no-gas-goodman-gmp050-3-a-96305/)

twoplanker 02-23-2011 12:57 AM

Glowing Ignitor, No gas- Goodman GMP050-3
 
Our furnace stopped blowing heat a couple of days ago. Forgive my lack of terminology but here is the scenerio.
1. thermostat clicks
2. inductor? fan runs
3. ignitor glows for 5-7 seconds and then goes out.
4. no ignition, no flame, no heat= we're freezing our butts off.

Easy to assume that there is no gas to the ignitor.
Now what do I do?
Thanks in advance for any responses.

hvac benny 02-23-2011 01:24 AM

Start with the easiest things to fix, which are also the easiest to overlook:

Is the meter on? If the gas company changes your meter they will leave a door hanger on your front door, even though many people never use their front door. Check the meter cock, it should be in line with the service riser, not parallel to it.

Is the appliance valve shut off? Should be inline with the gas piping. Many times kids move it while playing.

Next I would remove and replace the flame rod. It's a thin metal rod usually located in the left hand side of the burner box, most likely kept in place by a 1/4" screw. Remove it and clean with a scotch bright pad. Do not use sand paper!

If it still doesn't light, inspect the hot surface igniter. It's usually located in the right side of the burner box. It should be free from cracks, and should glow bright red/orange when the furnace calls for heat. It will energize after the inducer starts it's cycle.

hvaclover 02-23-2011 01:42 AM

sign of the times here
 
I went on four calls this week of families who were receiving utility subsidy while the husband is deployed.

paperwork showed they were up to date but the gas utility locked out the meter any way. Phone cll got be into a bunch of people passing the buck.

Turn about is fair play....now they have heat

hvactech126 02-23-2011 05:22 AM

that gas valve has roll out switches inline on the common side of power. check them, they are manual reset. IF THEY ARE TRIPPED, THIS IS THE INDICATION OF A SERIOUS PROBLEM! THIS FURNACE IS KNOWN FOR CRACKED HEAT EXCHANGERS!!! NEEDS TO BE CHECKED ANNUALLY BY A PRO

Poppyloppy 02-27-2011 03:57 PM

Once the ignitor stars glowing, the board should send a 24v signal to the gas valve to open up. If it doesn't it may be a bad board, if it does, then it may be the gas valve.

Subcooled 02-27-2011 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twoplanker (Post 596221)
3. ignitor glows for 5-7 seconds and then goes out.
.

If you got this far then all safeties are closed on this model. As other posters indicated be sure you have gas available.

If so, then next step is to check for 24v @ valve during trail for ignition. If 24 volt there (after ignitor warm up) and gas available then assume bad main valve, unless you have manometer to check manifold pressure.

If no 24 volt as valve and igniter glows then goes out, most likely board.

iamrfixit 02-27-2011 08:01 PM

It is also possible for the hot surface ignitor to glow but still not be good. The ignitor uses a very small power draw measured in milli-amps, if the ignitor does not draw enough milli-amps the control board will not open the gas valve. I had this same problem with gas ovens before, replaced the ignitor and away it went. You could test the ignitor with a multimeter if you knew the specifications.

kenmac 02-27-2011 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamrfixit (Post 599326)
It is also possible for the hot surface ignitor to glow but still not be good. The ignitor uses a very small power draw measured in milli-amps, if the ignitor does not draw enough milli-amps the control board will not open the gas valve. I had this same problem with gas ovens before, replaced the ignitor and away it went. You could test the ignitor with a multimeter if you knew the specifications.



The ignitor uses 110 v ac. If the ignitor didn't glow , Gas valve would still open. It would try a couple times b-4 lock out

iamrfixit 02-27-2011 11:56 PM

must work differently than my gas oven, just relaying my experience.

My oven ignitor also uses line voltage, but amps drawn by it are very low; measured in milli-amps. The ignitor on my oven would glow what seemed to be bright enough but the control board would never open the gas valve. I tested the ignitor and found it was slightly out of spec. I replaced the ignitor and has worked fine since. This has been the case two times, the first one was at my rental house and again on a friends oven.

seatonheating 02-28-2011 12:21 AM

Speculation is easily done away with by a pro. Oh, and the bonus is your house will be warm!!


Open up your wallet and you might keep your family warm.

hvaclover 02-28-2011 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamrfixit (Post 599326)
It is also possible for the hot surface ignitor to glow but still not be good. The ignitor uses a very small power draw measured in milli-amps, if the ignitor does not draw enough milli-amps the control board will not open the gas valve. I had this same problem with gas ovens before, replaced the ignitor and away it went. You could test the ignitor with a multimeter if you knew the specifications.

Dude...an igniter produces 4 to 5 amp when it heats up to light the burners.

When the igniter has timed to ignition heat the gas burners light. There is a rod that senses the burner heat and sends a micro amp (millionths of an amp.
You called them milli amps which are only thousands of an amp) of above I micro amp---usually 3 to 5 is perfect.

Stick with fixing toasters Dude, your outta your league here. We got pro HVAC business owners and supertechs here to give accurate info.


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