||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
|10-20-2009, 11:46 PM||#31|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 5Rewards Points: 10
Furnace will not stay on
My Blower wheel did NOT come with a replacement coiled wire clamp - and I think I recall the seller saying something about "Don't lose the coiled wire clamp!" The fact that you say your wheel slid off the motor shaft indicates to me that friction wasn't doing the trick of holding it on.
For those of you who have a coiled wire clamp on your blower shaft - it initially appeared to be very difficult to remove - but the trick is that it 'threads' on and off - you cannot just pull it straight off the hub. There will be one direction that tightens it and the other direction loosens it.
Fortunately I took some photos of my fan assembly and related parts before putting it all back together...
The first picture is looking down into the blower wheel at the little hub sticking up in the center.
The second picture is a close up of the old blower wheel hub - showing how it has a split in the end of it - allowing the split parts to flex enough for the coiled wire thingie to 'clamp' the end of the hub more tightly to the motor shaft.
The third picture shows the motor shaft and the coiled wire thingie next to it - sitting in the housing that the blower wheel will later fit into.
You're right that the motor shaft has a flattened side and the blower wheel has a matching shape - such that the blower wheel is 'keyed' to the shaft (although there is no separate 'key' like on a lawnmower flywheel).
My guess is that the coiled wire clamp is useful to prevent the blower wheel from moving axially along the shaft - otherwise it might start rubbing against either side and making a heck of a rackety noise (like my neighbor's chainsaw - which was what I thought I was listening to before I figured out it was my broken furnace blower wheel)
I'd take the blower wheel with you to your best local hardware store - the one with the best selection of little nuts & bolts and springs (i.e. REAL "hardware" as opposed to paper plates and the latest halloween decorations)...
Ask the owner if he stocks any special coils designed to do this task. If not, look for a short coil spring that will twist onto the split hub in one direction but not the other. Springs are cheap enough that if you have to buy several to try when you get home - do it.
If you don't find anything that looks like it will work, you could always try some Loc-tite between the blower wheel and the shaft or try wrapping a short length of stiff wire tightly around the hub after it's on the shaft, but be careful to not throw off the balance - These blower wheels spin at very high speed and balance is a lot more critical than you might expect at first.
If you end up not using the coil wire and it works just fine without it - I'd be curious to know about that. Good Luck!
Last edited by Motorace; 10-20-2009 at 11:54 PM.
|09-21-2010, 06:06 PM||#32|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 455Rewards Points: 256
Furnace will not stay on
This thread has been very useful to me and has saved me money. I have an Amana furnace whose induced draft fan has failed twice before and it's never at a good time. I've had to replace the entire unit each time even though the motor and capacitor were fine. In my case, tracing back data not so available on the internet at the time, I determined the induced fan unit was an A158 for my Amana furnace.
The Swirlwind / fasco branded id fan unit is kind of junky and the plastic blades of the blower fan eventually get brittle and break off. Your thermostat will call for heat but because the id fan is jammed from broken blades, safety components in your furnace will prevent ignition and heat.
The www.cshincorporated.com website has excellent info on Fasco blowers and parts. The links are to www.fasco.com/pdf/pxx.pdf. Punch in a number where xx is to get a real catalog page by brand. Mine was p22.pdf and p48.pdf for my A158. You will have to hunt for your brand.
Motorace on 1/8/09 let forum users know that the wheel itself is now available as a replacement part for about $23. On 10/21/09 he then provides important pictures on how to disassemble a Swirlwind/fasco fan unit. Worked great for me. Much thanks to Motorace.
Even though his furnace was a different brand from mine, my wheel had the part # 8710-4358 stamped on the back. So same wheel will work for me. Saves a bundle on replacing whole unit and keeps landfill from useless waste.
After further research and logic on the cshincorporated.com website, I am convinced that this same wheel will work on a number of similar furnaces with PSC motor type and clockwise (CW) rotation. Motorace had an A168, an Excel/Ducane/York furnace or an InterCity/PMI/Valcun A145 or similar.
I am pretty sure the following units all will take the same wheel Motorace pointed out:
Amana A158 (mine for sure)
York A137, A165, A168
PMI/Valcun Hart A145
Check out those catalog cuts on Fasco site.
Thanks again Motorace.
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Heil Furnace Burner Problem||timothyr||HVAC||79||02-12-2014 07:01 PM|
|Bryant Furnace main burner goes out after 5 seconds||Da_Bears||HVAC||8||01-03-2012 01:24 AM|
|Ducane Gas Furnace fails to stay on||franko||HVAC||25||12-08-2011 04:14 PM|
|Replacing My Furnace, few simple questions||compression||HVAC||10||02-03-2007 05:00 PM|