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Old 12-28-2006, 04:41 PM   #16
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Furnace will not stay on


Hey Allen,

I could still use that blower wheel for sure -- Would save me the hassle of having to use the completely new inducer motor!

If you get a chance, do reply to this thread or send me a Private Message with your email -- I will send you one now as well. Thanks!

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Old 01-01-2007, 02:16 PM   #17
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Furnace will not stay on


Narrowed it down to one of three problems:

1) Pressure switch(es) gone bad.

2) Clogged flue

3) Bad circuit board.

Ran outta time. The weather in good old SC was warm for the previous week and a half and my wife was supportive of my DIY activites. Then suddenly, the temperature dropped and, nearly as quickly, my wife's patience disappeared.

I had a real struggle finding a replacement pressure switch on the net. Finding a inducer blower was easy by comparison, which made me doubt that the problem was the pressure switch. If a parts breaks a lot, it must need to be replaced a lot; if not, there is much less call for it and thus it would be less available, right? Wrong. Turned out the problem was indeed one of the pressure switches.

$185 got the part and labor done, which wasn't bad, considering the average cost of the pressure switches I actually found was around $130.

Thanks to all for the help.

Allen

PS. I sent the blower wheel to Brad
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:42 AM   #18
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Furnace will not stay on


Sweet!
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Old 01-02-2007, 08:40 PM   #19
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Furnace will not stay on


I saw this post to late. You could have gotten your pressure switch for your unit for about $30 to $40 bucks at a local parts house. Next time you need any parts, look up United Refrigeration on your computer and search for a store. They are in every major city and so far the most anyone has had to drive was 55 miles to get a part.
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Old 01-02-2007, 10:28 PM   #20
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Furnace will not stay on


"I saw this post to late"

I guess that's why you are called "sloooo."

No worries, and no regrets. Once it got to a choice of several possible secondary problems, especially with the weather turning cold, I felt calling a pro was the right thing to do.

I saved at least $150 on the inducer blower, which was the obvious primary issue. When that didn't solve it, I suspected the presssure switch, but was unable to confirm completely on my own. I didn't want to keep buying parts and stabbing in the dark (and cold).

The United Refrigeration is a good tip. I'll keep it mind the for the next time. thanks.
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:18 PM   #21
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Furnace will not stay on


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Originally Posted by allenzachary View Post
The (new) inducer blower is blowing constantly whether the whole system is runing or not.
I was having a similar problem with my furnace. It would work fine for a while and then at random times when it tried to ignite, it would go into error mode. The error on the ignition module read "pressure switch stuck closed". So, I replaced the pressure switch (PS), but it made no difference.

It wasn't until then that I noticed the inducer running constantly when the furnace was in error mode. Once it went into error, the inducer would run even when I lowered the temp at the thermostat below the standing temp and even if I switched the heat to "off" at the thermostat. At that point, I opened the blower panel, held the blower panel safty switch down and tapped on the ignition module (IM). After a few taps, the inducer shut off. Voila, it was my IM. I replaced that and have been problem free since.

If someone reads this and isn't sure if they have bad PS or bad IM, you can test your PS pretty easily. Among other ways, there is one listed toward the bottom on the page http://arnoldservice.com/Troubleshoo...g_Problems.htm

I hope this helps someone who's wife won't get off his back because he's bound and determined to get the damn thing fixed himself even if ice is beginning to form on the old lady's nose.
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:57 PM   #22
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Furnace will not stay on


i was going to post this exact same title in a new post.. glad i browsed and searched... first off, i'm a newbie to homeowning. so gimme some leeway.

our oil burner/furnace that heats the house through baseboard heat isn't igniting as it should. when the temp drops in the house, in either of the two zones, the heater starts up. then the ignitor starts, but quickly goes off. this happens a few times until it finally goes on and works correctly

we had our furnace serviced late last year and i poked around and couldn't find a filter to see if was trying to ignite but getting choked out... any ideas?
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:51 PM   #23
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Furnace will not stay on


IGNITER PROBLEMS
At our previous house, we had an Ammana furnace with a glowplug type igniter that would only last a few months. A furnace man advised my wife to not use Tide soap for the laundry. Changed to another brand. Sounds crazy, but the igniter lasted much longer after the change!
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:55 PM   #24
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try disconnecting hose from pressure switch and whatever else hose is connected to and ream out the ferrules that the hose is connected to. use a piece of uninsulated thermostst wire.
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:39 AM   #25
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Furnace will not stay on


SnoBird...curious about the Tide laundry soap, but made me think. Did the furnace man give you any further explaination about this? What I wondered about if it was possible that one of the chemicals used in the laundry soap was released into the air in minute particles when being used and found its way into the air system to the glow plug. If the light dusting that continued to occur on the glow plug created a further chemical reaction when the plug heated resulting in a slow failure of the plug over time. Hmmm.....makes for an interesting discussion. Any latent chemists out there?
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:28 PM   #26
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Furnace will not stay on


i've got a teledyne laars - mini-therm jf oil furnace with a reillo 40-f3 oil injector pump.

i dont know if either of those help anyone, but its happening worse now, i'm just glad its not broken, i'm going to have to resort to asking my neighbor for his furnace mans name unless someone can give me a walkthrough in cleaning/repairing it.

we conveniently just switched from a home heating oil company to a local BP gas station that delivers at a much lower cost.. so i was also thinking that this home fuel oil #2 is different or "dirtier" where its messing up something...

thanks
smallz

ps, also our heat is loud, like expansion creaking and cracking all the time.. is that normal? as i said before i'm new to home owning, if it didn't happen in my old house i wouldn't know..
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:30 PM   #27
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Furnace will not stay on


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Originally Posted by BDPNA View Post
I could still use that blower wheel for sure -- Would save me the hassle of having to use the completely new inducer motor!
I've got the exact same model number Inter-City/ArcoAire (~20 year old) horizontal furnace that allenzachary started this thread with. That's how I found this thread - by Googling on the furnace model number. It was working great until two days ago when the inducer blower started making a noise so loud I initially thought the neighbors were running a chain saw.

When I got the inducer blower apart, I found that a small concrete chip had been sucked into it and damaged the blower fan. I tried repairing the blower wheel but a slight imbalance just made it worse. They're somewhat fragile and extremely sensitive to imbalance at the high speed they operate at. I clearly needed a new blower wheel.

I asked my HVAC guy for help locating another one. He had no sources for the blower wheels but said he could get the entire inducer assy. He went to get one from his supplier but it wasn't even a close match - which turned out to be a blessing in disguise because they wanted over $600!

So I looked on the web. I shoulda gone there first, but I'd hoped to find one locally to get the heat back on sooner. Googling on the Fasco/"Swirlwind" inducer blower part number (#7062-3136 seen on the label on the motor) I found that CSH Inc (www.cshincorporated.com) sold an exact-looking plastic replacement FASCO blower wheel (p/n 8710-4358) for $23.34. The dimensions all lined up correctly so I ordered one today (see photo from their website).

Don't lose your wire-coil that clamps the blower wheel to the motor shaft because the new wheel doesn't come with one!

CSH also offers a replacement Inducer Blower assy from Rotom (# FB-RFB540) for $155.31, or an original Fasco Assy (# A168) for $225.70 (see photo below from their website). Hopefully I will not need one of these for a few more years yet.

I contacted a number of other suppliers to check their Inducer Blower assy prices too and most were over $400!

If I do not post again then you'll know the $23 blower fan wheel worked fine, but if it doesn't work - I'll post again to tell future readers what I did to solve it.
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Last edited by Motorace; 01-08-2009 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:54 AM   #28
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Furnace will not stay on


Hey nice find - Let us know what happens. I still have the same furnace so it's good to know if it happens again.
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Old 08-12-2009, 03:39 PM   #29
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Furnace will not stay on


The new blower wheel worked great and saved me a ton of money!
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Old 10-20-2009, 09:45 PM   #30
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Furnace will not stay on


Motorace, I am about to swap out a damaged blower wheel that is identical to the one you replaced. Thanks for the help locating the part.

When I took apart the inducer assembly, I noticed the blower wheel had fallen off the motor shaft, which caused the fan to bind and stop. Luckily this did not burn the motor out. However, I did not see the wire coil you mentioned. It seems like the shaft is "keyed" and the wheel is kept on by friction on mine.

Can you describe what the wire coil piece does and what it looks like? I am concerned that if the replacement wheel doesn't come with this part I might be stuck .

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