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Old 01-01-2009, 06:59 AM   #1
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Furnace blower


My carrier furnace is giving me a 33 led code indicating (limit or flame rollout switch is open). The furnace is kicking on, the flames kick on but when the blower tries to kicks on, it doesn't. The flames eventually turn off and blower sound stays on. Then cycles. Any help would be great, house is getting cold.

Thanks

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Old 01-01-2009, 08:11 AM   #2
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Can you spin the motor by hand? If it is seized up then you need a new motor and capacitor.

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Old 03-29-2009, 12:31 PM   #3
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Furnace blower


I have the same issue as above and yes I can turn the fan by hand.

I was away for two weeks and when I came home and turned the heat back up this was the issue.

Is there anything I can do myself to fix this or will a service call be required? And if so how much am I looking at to get this fixed?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-29-2009, 12:43 PM   #4
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Also of note the error code is 33.
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Old 03-29-2009, 12:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC1978 View Post
I have the same issue as above and yes I can turn the fan by hand.

I was away for two weeks and when I came home and turned the heat back up this was the issue.

Is there anything I can do myself to fix this or will a service call be required? And if so how much am I looking at to get this fixed?

Thanks in advance.


Are you saying that the blower that moves air through the vents won't come on ??
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:00 PM   #6
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That's correct.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:04 PM   #7
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You can test the blower by removing the wires for the blower off the board & connecting them to a 110 v source.. That would tell you if it's the blower motor & not the board.. Also check capacitor. Another way is to check the terminals( where the blower wires connect) on the board for 110v.. You will need a v.m. for this

Last edited by kenmac; 03-29-2009 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:25 PM   #8
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In the manual it states to do a component test to short the test terminal to the "C" terminal. How would I perform this test?

Also after leaving it the error code changes to 13.

Last edited by AC1978; 03-29-2009 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:30 PM   #9
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I assume they are talking about one of the blower speed wires to hot.. If you aren't careful in doing this you may short the board.. If the board isn't bad you could let the smoke out of it
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:37 PM   #10
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I think I'm in over my head and should probably call someone in. Just doesn't make sense why it worked fine before I went on vacation and not when I returned. Was hoping it would be something simple but doesn't seem so.

Guess one last hope is how do you reset the board?

Thanks for all your help, suggestions and more importantly time.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:44 PM   #11
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You can give this a try.. At your t.stat there should be a switch fan on or auto.. Turn to fan on . & see what you get... Turn power off to the unit.. should reset everything... Could be bad motor ,, capacitor,, bad relay on the board

Last edited by kenmac; 03-29-2009 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:48 PM   #12
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You don't actually "RESET" that board. If you turn the power on/off it resets the board error codes but won't solve your problem. Leave the self test feature alone or you may damage the board. Try turn the fan to ON from AUTO if you have A/C at the thermostat and see if it works.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:50 PM   #13
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I've turned the fan to on and have got nothing.

When you say leave the fan on and power down the unit should I power of the furnace while leaving the t-stat on?

Worst case scenario how much could I be looking at to get this repaired?
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Old 03-29-2009, 02:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC1978 View Post
I've turned the fan to on and have got nothing.

When you say leave the fan on and power down the unit should I power of the furnace while leaving the t-stat on?

Worst case scenario how much could I be looking at to get this repaired?

You can leave it on .. won't hurt anything If nothing is working..


Hard to tell the cost .. Don't know what's wrong... A tec. could tell you within a hr or less what's wrong
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Old 03-29-2009, 02:28 PM   #15
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Cost depends on where you live. I would guess anywhere from $400 to $600. May just need a less than $50 capacitor plus service call fee.

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