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Old 02-10-2011, 05:09 PM   #16
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flue pipe on 90+ furnace


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In all my thirty plus years I have replaced many furnace blower motors and none of them filled the home with smoke. There is nothing in the motor to sustain combustion to make smoke. The windings overheat and melt causing an open in the windings.

There ain't no smoke!
Really? What about the hundreds of belt drive motors we/I replaced in the 70's and 80's. When the starting switch failed to disconnect the start winding it smoked up a LOT of houses where I am. The shellac on the windings burns and creates smoke. Fire dept here would bring in a blower to blow the smoke out B4 a heating co. arrived. Direct drives rarely smoke.

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Old 02-10-2011, 05:41 PM   #17
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Really? What about the hundreds of belt drive motors we/I replaced in the 70's and 80's. When the starting switch failed to disconnect the start winding it smoked up a LOT of houses where I am. The shellac on the windings burns and creates smoke. Fire dept here would bring in a blower to blow the smoke out B4 a heating co. arrived. Direct drives rarely smoke.

The OP has a direct drive and i was referring to direct drives in my posts.

I
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Old 02-10-2011, 05:49 PM   #18
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Or you don't remember the 70's and 80's. BeeGees/Disco/Bell bottoms.
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Old 02-10-2011, 05:49 PM   #19
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He said what he thought the smell may be from. I answered you don't really get an odor like that from a motor. A simple exchange of thought. No murder, no foul.
He said the motor smelled of oil, not thought.

Originally Posted by Landen

Ya our furnace repairman said its probably been close to 20 years since he had this much trouble with a new furnace. It would be mine! He put a new motor in the fan housing tonight and now its making a humming noise and can even hear it through the vents. Its been smelling like oil too which I know is nomal on new parts but it doesn't seem to let up much. He's coming back tomorrow and try and quiet the blower down...Im ready to scrap it and start all over

Over exaggerating and over dramatizing routine repairs could possibly panic the people viewing this board. I believe the OP used some poetic license when he made posts.
I believe we have a responsibility to provide quality advice and dissuade over wrought posts.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:01 PM   #20
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Or you don't remember the 70's and 80's. BeeGees/Disco/Bell bottoms.
I didn't do Disco. I was a metal head.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:06 PM   #21
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If the water heater was orphaned by the removal of the old furnace the chimney now becomes too large to draft properly with only the water heater
flue gases to keep warm enough to draft well.

Hello hvaclover,
The installer is going to put a smaller pipe tomorrow in the old flue pipe. I also asked him to raise it up higher so as not to be that much closer to the new pipe. Had a inspector out today and he said that the 1.5 foot distant from the 2 flue pipe was code.


The furnace blower can pull the indoor press low enough to cause an already badly drafting chimney to back flow into the home and trip the monoxide detector.
Or if the detector is over five years the sensor could be worn out and alarm to any steady stream of cooking smells.
But to me the whole scenario smells fishy.
The detector is about 2 years old so im leaning towards your drafting situation.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:11 PM   #22
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Bummer, sorry you're having such problems. What furnace do you have? I had a pain in the ass furnace a few months ago that came from the factory with the ground wire missing, line voltage and neutral crossed, and vacuum hoses disconnected. I corrected all the visible problems and It fired up once and ran for a few seconds, shut itself off. Next cycle a large flash came from the furnace and it never ran again. My point is that it does happen and as long as your installers are making the effort it will all get taken care of. The manual will have venting specifications, whip it out and I bet it will tell you it needs to be 3' away from any other vent or intake.
Its a SURE but made by Rheem 90 + downflow. Don't have the exact numbers off hand.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:16 PM   #23
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Im not sure if oil smell would be the right description but smelled like the newness was burning off because tonight I dont smell it...It still is very noisey. I'm just glad he decided this is not acceptable and replacing it also tomorrow.
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:51 AM   #24
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Im not sure if oil smell would be the right description but smelled like the newness was burning off because tonight I dont smell it...It still is very noisey. I'm just glad he decided this is not acceptable and replacing it also tomorrow.
Sounds like you choose a good contractor then.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:20 PM   #25
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Sounds like you choose a good contractor then.
Yes he really seems to care. He replaced the second furnace today with a York model and so far everything is running smooth. Thanks to everyone for their help!
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Old 02-12-2011, 09:45 PM   #26
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I know they refer to these new furnaces as sealed/closed units but noticed after the installer left that one of the plastic pop outs fell out from the bottom leaving about a 4 inch hole. Since fresh air is pumped from the outside into this area around the burners, should I replace or just leave it out? I know this is probably a dumb question but didn't want to both the contractor with something so simple given all he's been through with messing with 3 furnaces...
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:25 AM   #27
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I know they refer to these new furnaces as sealed/closed units but noticed after the installer left that one of the plastic pop outs fell out from the bottom leaving about a 4 inch hole. Since fresh air is pumped from the outside into this area around the burners, should I replace or just leave it out? I know this is probably a dumb question but didn't want to both the contractor with something so simple given all he's been through with messing with 3 furnaces...
Not dumb at all. Yes do replace the plastic plug.

I don't like the fact they don't build an enclosure for the burners. They rely
on the door being tight in-place and a whole bunch of plugs to keep the ID air from mixing with OD air coming in.
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Old 02-13-2011, 08:06 AM   #28
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Not dumb at all. Yes do replace the plastic plug.

I don't like the fact they don't build an enclosure for the burners. They rely
on the door being tight in-place and a whole bunch of plugs to keep the ID air from mixing with OD air coming in.
Ok, there is a sheet metal screw where the edge covers which probably caused it to slip out. I'll just modify it a bit to make it fit. I think metal would be a better deal in a warm area instead of plastic. Thanks hvaclover i'm replacing it now.
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Old 02-13-2011, 06:36 PM   #29
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Well now I'm trying to figure out why when the blower kicks on it pulls air down the hot water heater pipe and If I hold a lighter there it blows it out. I'm pretty sure that 14" cannot be code for both of those pipes!The funace has 1 concentric kit. I never did get that plastic cap to stay in place on the bottom of the furnace so I held it tightly in place but it still sucked air down the w/heater flue. I did notice that there is a gap where the pvc comes out of the exhaust side and there should be rubber all the way around but since he used a elbow to meet straight up through the attic and roof it probably pushed the rubber seal out. Right now I have a co detector next to the furnace and one in the hallway until I can get them back out here......I am thankful the weather warmed up around here until its fixed!
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:43 AM   #30
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Sounds like its chimney liner time.

You familiar with liners?

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